Huh?? If that was the case, mine would have started blowing up years ago but none have. My guess is that it's out of Chris' wheelhouse so he is taking the high ground. Mine is running off hard-piped household propane that I had installed when I built the house. Just have vents open (which you need to do for cooking) and have the door open when you light the burner. You MUST have the top vent open or the burner will go out (no air flow) then it'll fill up with propane but just a bit of common sense is all it takes....and obviously you have that
Might have also been a liability thing which I can't blame him for. I'm leaning toward charcoal because I've only ever used a pellet pooper and MES and want something with the ability to get flavor closer to a stick burner, if
fireboard sold the stuff to make your own pellet pooper like LSG/Yoder use I'd probably try using that and adding in a grate to stick wood chunks over the firepot similar to what
Camp Chef's new cooker does, could probably do it with one of the existing hopper assemblies but after using the
fireboard on the Yoder it's hard to go back to something that's manual or has an app they paid an intern to make.
If you're interested I was looking to weld a threaded pipe running through the wall and I'd toss one of these gas mixers on the end on the outside of the smoker and on then inside I would either throw the other end of the burner they make or make my own pipe burner which seem fairly basic.
Tejas Smokers two cast iron venturis. One has a 3/4" FNPT gas outlet and the other an 1 1/4" FNPT gas outlet Either can be used with high or low pressure propane or natural gas.
tejassmokers.com
Not a bad idea...or a tractor with full hydraulics
I don't know if that thing would even be able to its the arm in my garage, I live a subdivision with a tiny plot so no barn to store it in either, as is my garage is going to be tight to weld in. Probably going to see if I can't recreate something like the Chud's BBQ table before starting on the the smoker since it seems way more forgiving a project to learn on and I could probably pull the cutting board out and use it as a welding table.
Still going through your redesign notes, so is this accurate?
- 2"x1" 1/8" thick channel for the frame walls
- 1" of the 2" is used for insulation and then a panel is welded on top of it to seal it in.
- The other 1" is free airflow up from the firebox other than a central 2x1 tube that supports the racks
- back wall is 1" thick filled with insulation
- Steel all around is 1/8" thick?
- Is there a benefit to having it that thick for the outer walls or could I maybe go 1/16 and save some $$$ since I'll probably go 2" insulation all around.
Don't know how much it would impact airflow but I'm thinking I might start out as reverse flow with the side/back walls attached with machine screws (maybe a bead of high temp grill silicone to seal it) and see how it works and if it doesn't I can just unscrew and convert to direct heat, might need to make the chimney central to start and have a 90 degree turn at the top of the back wall moving air to it.