Interesting video about knife steels

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noboundaries

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Here's an interesting presentation on knife making steels from what sounds like a credible fellow. Whether you make knives or just buy and use them, this guy makes some interesting points that could save you money if shopping for a new knife. Be forewarned, it's kinda nerdy and technical, but he presents it quite casually.

I personally never paid much detailed attention to my kitchen knives until I returned to whetstone sharpening, then a whole new world of use and detail opened up to me. I've since learned I can sharpen anything to razor sharp from a $2 knife to a medium dollar ($75) stainless knife to a Ka-bar or machete.

Oh, and for those who struggle with angles and whetstones, I have one suggestion for starting on any dull knife: go a tad steeper and press harder than you think you need to on the low grit stones (120-400 grit) when you start. Use lighter pressure as you develop your burrs and progress through the process.

I was always a bit too gentle when working on my vehicles, but if I had the right tool, sometimes it just took some muscle. Same thought process with stone sharpening. Try being gentle to start. If that doesn't work, lay into it.
 
Good general discussion about knife steels.... what kind of steel and how it is heat treated is very important decision if you are getting a hand crafted knife....

just for comparison four star Henkels are a RH = 57, which make it a chore to sharpen. Many of the carbon steel knifes are mid to lower 50’s. On a hand made knife you can see knifes over 60 and some designer steels as I call them 64. I’m making 2 knifes out of AEB-L Stainless right now that were tested at 61....holy smokes these things are HARD! They are hard on belts and sanding! AEB-L is what most razor blades are made of so they can get very sharp and perform well when thin! Most stainless need ramping heat and staged heat times then they also need a cryo treatment (1975 degrees to minus 300, many in no oxygen environments) to get the best performance out of them. AEB-L is one that can be done in a home shops if you have a heat treat oven and some dry ice...Buck knifes heat treated and cryo’d the ones I’m working on.

I also like 15n20 carbon steel as it is less corrosion prone and produces a nice patina... it is often used in Damascus and it performes well at 59-61. It is very easy to heat treat in a home shop with very good results.

I can say the O1 he talks about is a very difficult steel to work with and starts to corrode if you look at it, but is is very hard and holds an edge.
 
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I really admire folks like you CS who have the knowledge, patience, and property to make their own knives. If I didn't have neighbors 20 feet in each direction, I'd start taking classes. Doesn't stop me from watching videos, though.

I've taught myself to sharpen on cheap stainless and various HRC 50-58 knives. I never miss a day of looking at the HRC 60+ kitchen knives available, though. I love talking myself out of pushing the "buy" button. Keeps me busy when I'm bored!
 
I really admire folks like you CS who have the knowledge, patience, and property to make their own knives. If I didn't have neighbors 20 feet in each direction, I'd start taking classes. Doesn't stop me from watching videos, though.

I've taught myself to sharpen on cheap stainless and various HRC 50-58 knives. I never miss a day of looking at the HRC 60+ kitchen knives available, though. I love talking myself out of pushing the "buy" button. Keeps me busy when I'm bored!
Thanks!

The 2 AEB-L Blades.... both 61 HRC tested by Buck...
76CD36E8-A3EC-4B33-99E5-701268DA2223.jpeg

The Kitchen is a hybrid slicer/chef... it is thin like a commercial slicer...
08F3209F-95F4-40F0-BEF2-5B749E805A4B.jpeg

It is going to be mirror. I have about 3-4 hours more to go on sanding and polishing before the handle goes on...
BF639CA9-0086-474D-B209-BE23A5C9EDCB.jpeg

I also just finished getting all my electrics for my heat treat oven build so I can do the AEB-L at home......
 
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Here is a 15n20 kitchen set that will have a forced patina (antiqued) and stabilized mesquite handles. These haven't been HRC tested but per process they are about 59-60. I will also be making a block to display them as well. My Henkel's may get lonely......
15n20s.jpg
 
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