DIY Curing Chamber Help - Drilling Holes

[Culinary Otter]

After being talked into a DIY curing chamber vs a pre-built model (thanks SMF!), I'm working on the most nerve-wracking part, hoping for some input. For reference my fridge is a Danby DBC434A1BSSDD.

I'm about to drill into the shell to run power & probe, assume there's some folks here more adept at this than I am. I'm currently looking at two options:

Going through the side of the fridge (preferred method):
There's clearly evap lines on the sides and top of this model, but I think I have a solid 2-3" (will obviously measure properly, this was just a rough estimate today). Likely need a 1.5-2" hole. This is the riskier method, but I think having controls and everything running through the side will make it an easier setup to replace/move anything as I tweak my setup.

Thermal pic of the side for reference:

Option two, go through the back beside the compressor:

Safer option (I think). Would be somewhat of a cleaner install, but is going to make it more difficult to redo any wiring, remove components, etc. Also somewhat concerned running all the wiring close to a heat source (the compressor).

Pic of compressor area and back wall:

I don't *think* there's anything on or behind that "shelf". The water drain is above it, any lines and wiring on the back tie in above or on top of the shelf. There's a rubber nipple on the side opposite of where I'm thinking of drilling, so there might be something behind that but nothing I'll be close to.

Thermal image of rear shelf from inside, a bit warmer than the fridge, but dissipated. Assuming heat from the compressor:

Would there be anything behind that shelf I'm missing? The condenser coils should be above it based on looking at the piping and parts schematic:

Will be drilling a pilot hole, and sizing up hole saws as I go to inspect as I go.
Any help/input would be greatly appreciated!
TIA

 

[indaswamp]

Very cool you were able to get a thermo image of the coils in the side of the refrigerator.

This is what I did on my first chamber to locate the coil lines...
https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/dry-curing-chamber-build.295014/#post-2062255

I would recommend doing this to verify your thermal image.

I drilled my first chamber, but decided to run the wires through the door on my replacement chamber. If you decide to drill, YES-drill a very small pilot hole. Then dig around in there probing with a stiff wire for coil lines. and electrical wires. probe 360* and bend the wire as needed to probe just under the surface of the outer wall. Take your time! You do not want to drill a line! Slowly step up the hole size, then use forceps to pull the insulation out for a visual inspection. I cut the final hole out the outer layer of metal with a jig saw, then used a hole saw to cut the inner wall.

 

[indaswamp]

Is this the unit you bought?
https://www.danby.com/products/beverage-centers/dbc434a1bssdd/

Are planning to highjack the cooling and run it through a controller?

 

[indaswamp]

Going through the wall back/bottom by the compressor is a solid option. Should not be any coil wires there. but follow the above procedure just in case.

I cut a hole there in the small 1.7cu.ft. fridge I bought to use as a dehumidifier for my latest big chamber that I build 2 years ago. No coils found there. SHOULD be the same deal with that Danby.

 

[Culinary Otter]

Very cool you were able to get a thermo image of the coils in the side of the refrigerator.

Thanks! I ended up getting a FLIR camera that connects to my phone just for this project when I first wanted to do it a few years back. More info is always better, IMO. I hate doing this kind of stuff (I don't even like drilling into my drywall).

This is what I did on my first chamber to locate the coil lines...
https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/dry-curing-chamber-build.295014/#post-2062255

Thanks for the link! I've looked through a lot of your threads for this project but somehow missed that one. I'll read through that for sure tonight. I've seen the corn starch method and will definitely use that too for confirmation.

Do you have to start from a warm fridge? Or can it already be cooled off? I've seen both methods posted on various sites.

 

[Culinary Otter]

Is this the unit you bought?
https://www.danby.com/products/beverage-centers/dbc434a1bssdd/

Yes - my apologies I meant to post the link.

Are planning to highjack the cooling and run it through a controller?

Plans were to use the Inkbird 308.

I drilled my first chamber, but decided to run the wires through the door on my replacement chamber.

Any specific reason for the change?

 

[indaswamp]

Do you have to start from a warm fridge? Or can it already be cooled off? I've seen both methods posted on various sites.

I would start with a warm fridge. The compressor will run longer cooling, and the heat given off will evaporate the alcohol... don't want to risk the compressor shutting off, because then you have to clean the fridge and start over. Once the alcohol/corn starch is applied, you don't want the compressor to shut off is what I'm saying.

 

[indaswamp]

Plans were to use the Inkbird 308.

That'll work...

 

[indaswamp]

Any specific reason for the change?

first unit I bought was a used freezer. It lasted a little over a year before it sprung a coolant line leak on the underside of the unit. Lost coolant and would not cool. Any longer... forced my hand as I had chamber loaded with product so I bought new. No time to wait to find another used one.

 

[mr_whipple]

Looking good and I like the thermal pics. I got lucky on mine when I drilled, old Viking wine fridge. I drilled very close to the front edge by the door. Now when I went to do a second small fridge to make a fermenting chamber I hit a line and whoops... shoulda slowed down and taken my time. Looks like indaswamp has you covered and the only advice I was going to offer was the size of the hole, but I see you have that. Standard wall plugs for the humidifier / dehumidifier aren't very big, but the sensors for the inkbirds required a hole slightly more than 1-1/8". Once I got things the way I liked them I just stuffed the whole with a piece of a microfiber towel then sealed the inside with the peel and stick metal ducting tape. Keep us posted with progress of your build!

 

[Culinary Otter]

Looking good and I like the thermal pics.

Thanks!

the only advice I was going to offer was the size of the hole, but I see you have that.

I'm going to test out on a scrap piece of lumber or Styrofoam, but in my head a 1.5 should suffice. I will likely run extension cords inside the chamber from the external Inkbirds, and then plug the humidifier/dehumidifier into those inside.

I also want to run a USB fan and possibly a UVC light unit in there (both for dry aging only). So either I drill two holes or the one has to be big enough to stuff all those wires. I like your method of insulating the holes, I'll likely do the same.

Keep us posted with progress of your build!

Will do!

 

[02ebz06]

I drilled my hole through the shelf.
Started on inside with pilot hole, then used to hole saw to go through the plastic and foam.
Once I hit metal bottom, I drilled pilot hole large enough to fit the screw in a Greenlee punch.
Then used it to take the metal out.

 

[indaswamp]

but in my head a 1.5 should suffice.

I used a 1 1/4" hole saw....

 

[02ebz06]

I think 1-1/4" is what I used too.
See what the largest thing is going through the hole and make it a tad bigger than it.
Most likely the humidity sensor.

 

[Culinary Otter]

Well. Here's the hindsight is 20/20 post.

Used the corn starch slurry and it verified the thermal imaging. I went 1/8" inside of both estimates out of an abundance of caution.

*Note: I am not handy with the tools*

Drilled a pilot hole. Drilled my first hole with the hole saw. No refrigerant hissing out, no cables nicked.

Thought the brilliant idea was to keep sizing up holes. Turns out hole saws don't work very well without the pilot drill, and instead hop all around God's half green acre.

In the future if I have two testing methods I'll throw caution to the wind.

Fortunately I thought to make a wood plug to fit on the drill to keep it steady. It ain't pretty, but if a coat of rustoleum and a rubber gasket can save my relationship, pretty sure it can save my fridge

 

[indaswamp]

Nope....holesaw does not work well at all without the pilot bit. But your wood plug did the trick.
I thought I mentioned that I used a jigsaw to cut the outer hole first, then used the holesaw to cut the interior panel. Oh well, it's done.......now the fun can begin!

 

[Culinary Otter]

Nope....holesaw does not work well at all without the pilot bit. But your wood plug did the trick.
I thought I mentioned that I used a jigsaw to cut the outer hole first, then used the holesaw to cut the interior panel. Oh well, it's done.......now the fun can begin!

You absolutely did.

I couldn't figure out how that worked in my head. Should have asked more questions I guess.

 

[Culinary Otter]

Also, can't see that first pic without adding googly eyes...

 

[Culinary Otter]

Looks professional enough.

I'm okay with this.

 

[Culinary Otter]

Pics of my rough equipment layout before I make it semi-permanent. Fan and all hygrometers on the opposite side of the humidifier.

All controlling sensors on the top of the fridge.