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Fire Box Sizing - Page 2

post #21 of 32

Yes, thankyou, only the right side going up is flat, but I think I can work from this, thanks again.

post #22 of 32

A question about paint ? Is there a high temp. paint that I can spray on my smoker when I get it done, if so do I use a sealer or primer.  I would'nt think I could spray paint on bare metal.

post #23 of 32

I have had great success with VHT



post #24 of 32

Yeah but, mine is gonna be 7 ft long and over all length from tongue to end of firebox is 15 ft. That will take a lot of spray cans, I'm kinda looking for something I can spray with a gun.

post #25 of 32
Originally Posted by randy1439 View Post

I'm so confused I'm building a return flow smoker, my tube is egg shaped, measures 21" high inside, and 28" wide inside, and gonna be 8 ft long. I'm still not sure about size of firebox, and size of smoke stack, I tried that pitt calc. still not sure if I did it right, any help with this whould be great.

you can use 24.5" x 24.5" avg from the 21" x 28" as your guide line for tank might be excat but closer to what you have with 21 x 28.........bob



post #26 of 32

Question about the damper? Does it matter where it goes on the pipe, far as near the bottom or toward the top. Also I was gonna put one at the entrance from the firebox to the smoke chamber, Is this nessesary or maybe do one or the other, just in need of another opinion. Thanks

post #27 of 32

Randy, you may think about making the stack damper at the top, with a adjustment that can be changed by reaching up to the base of the stack. This would allow you to use the damper on the stack as a lid when not in use.


I myself think a damper between the firebox and cook chamber is a great idea.

If you have the doors open for an extended time the fire is going to really crank up from the extra draft. With a damper, you can close it if the doors are going to be open for a long time.

It will take longer to snuff the fire then the time it will take to crank up to a rage.


Not that its a good thing to have the doors open and loose all your heat. But there are times it happens.


I would love to build a rig that had linkage to slide a damper shut on the fire to cook area as I opened the lid. (open the door and the damper will close and vise versa)

post #28 of 32

Ok, that answers that, Thankyou.

post #29 of 32

I need some help with the pit calculator, I don't understand the air inlet opening, my firebox is 28x24x24 I want to go with a circular air inlet. If I want the opening to be 6" it says number of openings needed to match above is 1.74 (what is that?) then above it says air inlet openings needed is 49.25 I just don't get this, what I guess I'm trying to find out if 6" is to big or to small? do I need one on both sides? what size do I cut the slots into the firebox, do I need one or four?  This is the last thing that has me puzzled, if somebody can help me with this I will be in good shape the rest of the way to finish.

        Thanks Randy


post #30 of 32

What its telling you is that you need 1.74 openings that are 6" round. Or that you need 49.25 sq inchs of air intake. I have a template for the circle type vent I will try and find and post it, I believe that I have the sq inchs of my openings. Maybe that will help. 


post #31 of 32

air vent.jpg

If I have done the math correct I believe that the openings add up to about 16 sq inchs while the vent is wide open.


So I would say that just a rough guess that you will need at least two similar to this one if you were to make the openings as large as possible and still be able to close it off. Like maybe making it where there is 1/8" instead of 1/2"  Area of an 8" circle is just over 50 sq inchs so having two would cut it really close since you only get half the area per vent of this type.

post #32 of 32

Hey, thanks a million, you explained it perfectly so I can understand it now, Thankyou very much.

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