Master Forge Assembly

BGKYSmoker · Dec 20, 2011

Not waiting till Christmas...HA

Here are a few things i did to mine.

Applying braided 1000* heat seal around the burner box.

Sealed good

Going to take this apart later, install and elbow and use an adjustable regulator.

I did the doors the same way with the seal.

Paper on the inside just in case i get a drip.

I put the handles on and have a plastic bag over the door openings so i can make the seal tight, will remove the bag tomorrow.

I also added a new door thermo dial, way better than the original POJ

BBL

solaryellow · Dec 20, 2011

You cheating bastard. Congrats Rick!

fpnmf · Dec 20, 2011

Looking good!

Craig

BGKYSmoker · Dec 22, 2011

I was looking at different LPG connections, pipe and fittings, also an inline needle valve and said

SELF

You have something at home, ya just gotta be smarter than the average bear (no pun intended Bear)

New regulator on new LPG hose on smoker.

Adjustable regulator from a turkey fryer.

Bingo. Now its adjustable and didn cost me a penny .......This time atleast.

I do have a question for anyone who knows. Do i need some sort of pipe thread dope on the brass threads going into the regulator? When i took the connection apart from the new regulator i noticed some sort of crusty stuff on the brass threads?

TY

graystratcat · Dec 22, 2011

Nice job nepas! I did the braided rope gasket to mine as well but didn't think about doing the burner box connection. Good idea! Were the factory screws long enough of did you have to use longer ones? I also used the left over sealant from the gasket kit to seal the voids where the side and back wall panels meet the top. Mine had gaps in them big enough to slip a dime into. I also used a bit of the sealant on the chimney flange before screwing it down. I know that's way over kill, but I figured what the heck....

The next thing I want to seal is the metal break/flanges on the doors where the handles attach. Those 2 little bent clips pieces leak smoke/heat like crazy!

-Salt

BGKYSmoker · Dec 22, 2011

GrayStratCat said:
Nice job nepas! I did the braided rope gasket to mine as well but didn't think about doing the burner box connection. Good idea! Were the factory screws long enough of did you have to use longer ones? I also used the left over sealant from the gasket kit to seal the voids where the side and back wall panels meet the top. Mine had gaps in them big enough to slip a dime into. I also used a bit of the sealant on the chimney flange before screwing it down. I know that's way over kill, but I figured what the heck....

The next thing I want to seal is the metal break/flanges on the doors where the handles attach. Those 2 little bent clips pieces leak smoke/heat like crazy!

-Salt

I cut the gasket where the tabs are. Maybe i should have just went all around the base with it. I'm finding even after 30 mins of letting the sealant get tacky, the braid wants to absorb the sealant. I might use some rivets and washers thru the braid if the sealant does not setup good enough. I have enough to do my vent but going to wait until i season it and see how the temps are

While building my walk in smokehouse i found that you need to have some leakage of smoke around the doors and vents.

JckDanls 07 · Dec 22, 2011

Nepas... great job bub... As far as your Q. It;s no big deal about the "tape on the threads deal"... The seal to the tank is not done in the threads.. Clean threads up the best you can and they'll be ok... Since now you'll be using the connection more from changing bottle more often...

hope that makes sense...

SmokinAl · Dec 22, 2011

nepas said:
I was looking at different LPG connections, pipe and fittings, also an inline needle valve and said

SELF

You have something at home, ya just gotta be smarter than the average bear (no pun intended Bear)

New regulator on new LPG hose on smoker.

Adjustable regulator from a turkey fryer.

Bingo. Now its adjustable and didn cost me a penny .......This time atleast.

I do have a question for anyone who knows. Do i need some sort of pipe thread dope on the brass threads going into the regulator? When i took the connection apart from the new regulator i noticed some sort of crusty stuff on the brass threads?

TY

Yes It's pipe dope made for gas fittings. Home Depot has it. Regular pipe dope will deteriorate.

mballi3011 · Dec 22, 2011

Nice job and congrats on the new smoker.

michael ark · Dec 22, 2011

Rector seal works good.Lowe's sells it.

BGKYSmoker · Dec 22, 2011

michael ark said:
Rector seal works good.Lowe's sells it.

Is it by the gas pipe fittings?

BGKYSmoker · Dec 22, 2011

JckDanls 07 said:
Nepas... great job bub... As far as your Q. It;s no big deal about the "tape on the threads deal"... The seal to the tank is not done in the threads.. Clean threads up the best you can and they'll be ok... Since now you'll be using the connection more from changing bottle more often...
hope that makes sense...

Yup

TY

BGKYSmoker · Dec 26, 2011

Did the season today after i made some new holes on the side rails to take the top rack up higher. The soap on the driveway was to check for a leak in the new regulated connection i made earlier. All is good

Had the heat on low.

Almost perfect. The dial thermo i installed is only 5* lower than ,y digital probe. I can live with that. I did make a video i will post later.

BGKYSmoker · Dec 26, 2011

sprky · Dec 26, 2011

I have a couple questions.

1. after switching regulators what temps were you able to get low end as well as high end?

2. was the regulator you switched to a high presser regulator or a low presser regulator?

harleysmoker · Dec 26, 2011

Wow I just took the same needle valve off of my Bass Pro Shop fish fryer last week and put it on mine. I used Teflon tape on the threads of the hose screwing into the valve. Don't use the white regular plumbers tape, use the yellow stuff, it is made for gas. The white stuff can't hold up to the cold temps of the gas releasing. Any kind of putty or dope I would be afraid it would get inside the regulator or valve and plug it up.

harleysmoker · Dec 26, 2011

Just watched your video, for the top seams leaking I bought this stuff at Ace hardware called PC Farenheit. It says 1000* if I recall so it will stand the smoker temps. It comes in a little tube about 4 inches long. It is putty that you hand kneed and it gets hard in like 10 mins. I used a putty knife to put it in the crack on the outside. It drys to a crappy brown color so I just masked off about an inch under the seam all the way around and spray painted the seam with Rustoleum High Temp paint. The black color don't match the original but its better than the crap brown.

I also put a seal around both doors. Being in Naples Florida no one stocked the rope gasket. I picked up a felt gasket for The Big Green Egg extra large and ripped it in half and used that for my seal. So far working good and looks like mine seals better than your rope in the video.

BGKYSmoker · Dec 26, 2011

sprky said:
I have a couple questions.

1. after switching regulators what temps were you able to get low end as well as high end?

2. was the regulator you switched to a high presser regulator or a low presser regulator?

My low was 130, High before running out of gas was 230

Think its a low pressure , dial has 10psi on it?

Harley

Its all good......EH

michael ark · Dec 26, 2011

I liked some of your videos but it didn't show up.

harleysmoker · Dec 27, 2011

Here are a couple pictures of the PC Fahrenheit putty applied and painted and the green egg felt gasket. I also put some on the door latch brackets but it still leaks a little smoke where the rod goes into the door, but not as bad as it was.

Master Forge Assembly

Nepas OTBS #242

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Master of the Pit

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Master of the Pit

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