Search results for query: *

I'm glad to see someone else doing this! Your approach of using tubing between the parts is much simpler than my setup with all the adapters. For my tuning, I focused on setting the needle valve to the lowest stable flame, without trying to have it hold a set temperature. The goal was just...

Unfortunately I'm home recovering from a concussion, so I can't do any detailed reading or writing. I'll try to remember to reread and reply in a week or so.

I'm glad it's worked well for you, and to hear that the post has been useful. ASCO's solenoids look like the real deal.  If mine ever fails, I'd probably step up to something better like that. I haven't noticed a slow ramp up.  I did the PID calibration routine to let it set the parameters...

Good catch on the pipe dope.  I'll keep an eye on it.  Regarding the ball valve, my system is hooked up to a propane tank, and I just close the tank valve every time I am finished with it.  Glen

Ok, thanks.  I updated a few earlier posts to reflect the correct size and the HD parts link.

Ok, glad to hear you got the right parts.  Just to be clear, you are confirming it was 1/8" and not 1/4", correct?  I'll amend the prior posts to avoid anyone else being mislead.

Also, to clarify, the orifice is the small brass plug screwed into the bottom part of the fitting in the picture.  It's only needed if you are using this in it's original configuration, where that orifice controls the flame directly.  In this setup, it has to be removed. It just unscrews. Also...

You'll need to remove the orifice shown in the bottom fitting in the picture.  It's possible that the safety valve is 1/8" and not 1/4", but you said you tried both, so I'm not sure why one of them wouldn't fit, unless you were trying to screw onto the end with the orifice still attached...

For anyone else who reads this later, you're asking about the safety valve, not the thermocouple. The thermocouple is the part that connects to the safety valve, and sits in the burner to detect the flame.  As best I recall, looking at the picture, here's the parts I used, from the supply hose...

I don't know for sure that it can't, but it's adapted from a part for a Propane space heater, and this part isn't exposed to any high in the original usage.  Lacking confirmation otherwise, that's certainly safest assumption.

In your design, I think you'd need to mount it outside of the unit,  as I don't think the valve part is meant to be heated.  So the main question is whether the thermocouple is long enough to route inside to the flame.  I'm also unsure about the rubber hose being inside the heating space.   I...

Ok, got it.  Thanks for explaining.  

Can you elaborate on a ramping PID?  What's the difference? As far as the door, I haven't found it a problem that it kicks in quickly when I open the door.  I usually have a water pan, so it's not like I get a blast of heat on my hands while I'm tending to the food.  It does send some heat up...

Thanks!  It's working great. Getting ready to set it up again now that winter is drifting away.  I used id 8-10 times in the late summer and fall.  Temperatures were very stable, both high and low.  Low for ribs and pulled pork, high for smoked whole Turkey for thanksgiving.  The 10 second...

Sorry, I missed notification of this question.  I originally used the MyPIN PID.  It worked fine, but I couldn't find the setting to control cycle time, and ordered an Auber SYL-2362 to replace it.  I then found that setting, and realized I just didn't understand the term they used on the MyPIN...

Had my first big cook today, and I'm very happy with the performance of the control system.  Pics of the Q below.  I settled on a 10 second cycle time, which was long enough to not be bothersome, but short enough to stay within about +/- 2 degrees of my setpoint.  When I decided to build this...

I'm not sure how I missed it before, but the MyPIN PID does indeed have a setting to control cycle time.  It was defaulted to 1 second, which is why I had the fast cycling.  I set it to 5 seconds last night, and was much happier with the result.  This weekend I'll tune it more thoroughly, and...

Does anyone know whether playing with the P, I or D settings will affect the cycle time? I found that Auber Instruments makes a PID that has a direct adjustment for cycle time.  If I can't adjust the cycle time with the PID settings, I'll probably get the Auber PID.  The basic setup and PID...