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Clamping down on the exhaust side of the flow will stifle your draft, and you'll have a tendency to "soak" the meat in too much combustion byproduct. The result is creosote buildup -- and bitter bark. Yuck. Keep the exhaust damper all the way open! You want the smoke to "kiss" the meat as it...
So do I. I got a couple of those flat aluminum cookie trays (no lip like the pans have, came in a two-pack) from Target. The large one fits almost perfectly as the damper. I drilled two small holes at the edge and wired it to the end of the cooking grate. I'd use the smaller one as a diffusion...
I don't even think a brick is necessary -- or helpful. The goal is to evacuate the combustion byproducts from the firebox as quickly and efficiently as possible.
After some experimenting, I've come to the conclusion that it's most efficient for airflow and heat movement to leave the bottom of...
You probably started with too much fuel. Are you using a minion basket? Remember to keep the vent stack damper open ALL THE WAY and control your temps via the intake. If you haven't already, you might want to use Rutland Black RTV sealant on the joints of the firebox. There are air gaps that can...
Your issue related to oversmoking is a result of your closed exhaust ports. You were bathing the food in that stuff. It needs to fly by instead. You have to leave it all the way open and control your fuel temps/combustion rate with the intake vent.
My guess is the major problem is in the handling of the bags. The Home Depot folks are pretty quick to toss stuff around. That's gonna turn a good bag of medium/large lump into slivers/dust in a hurry.
I suggest you avoid Cowboy Lump. Sucks.
I highly recommend Ozark Oak. Great stuff. Clean burning, steady temps, a very light smoke flavor, and low ash. I got four 10lb bags from BBQGUYS.COM for $46.72 shipped to Southern California. That's $9.95/bag and $6.92 to ship all four.
If you want to start homebrewing, just keep in mind that there is a huge water requirement relative to the amount of actual beer you'll produce. Typically, on average, you'll use 5 to 7 gallons of water to make 1 gallon of beer. There's all the background chores like sterilization, cooling...
If that's the style of vent extension you're planning to use, I'd recommend against it. That looks way too constricted. I'd bet that your draft will seriously suffer. For $4 at Home Depot, you can get this:
Here's the install from the outside (just snipped around, wedged in, and the tabs...
And those are a function of material gauge (thickness) and fabrication tolerances (quality). I can appreciate what the folks who fire up their smoker in sub-freezing temps have to do make it happen!!!
Just remember that you can only smoke a piece of meat that'll fit onto one of the racks. A large brisket probably wouldn't fit in there. That's why I got the horizontal cook chamber.
There's not enough material there for it to matter (IMHO). I wouldn't use a plate of galvanized metal in the cooking chamber for something like a baffle though.
I've posted this on other threads, but this is my "poor man's" baffle using two of the charcoal grates and multiple wraps of HD foil. It is suspended from the cooking grate by two loops of bonsai wire. The bottom of the baffle grate and the next grate have holes scattered across them by a 1/2"...
A good bead of the Rutland Black Hi-Temp RTV sealant will cure any cook chamber leaks. You need something different on the FB (probably something in the asbestos-based family) as the surface temps on those can easily climb above it's max working temperature and it will melt away.
I got a tube of the Rutland Black RTV on Amazon, but the firebox destroyed it around the top of the door opening!! LOL!! I think my discovery of proper fuel use, which gave me the temps I was looking for, creates firebox top surface temps well in excess of 700-800 degrees, so, to completely seal...
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