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By the by, if any of you folks are looking for a source of good, quality hardwood lump, I picked up a pile of Ozark Oak bags online here: http://www.firecraft.com/product/ozark-oak-lump-charcoal/charcoal-wood. OO is 'highly recommended' rated by the Naked Whiz.
Rob, I have the TMLE (horizontal), so there are quite a few corellaries between the two. Most of the focus is on chamber sealing (for air control), damper/deflector use (radiant/reflective heat management), and firebox adjustments (for fuel control). I have posted quite a few pics of the mods I...
If you want an easily removable baffle plate, this is what I did:
It's one of a pair of double-thickness aluminum cookie sheets I picked up at Target. I drilled diffuser holes with a hole saw and large drill bit. The sheet hangs from the cooking grate via two easily bendable copper wires...
Yep. And a regular drill bit for the smaller holes.
The cookie sheet/tray came from a two-pack I picked up at Target. I only used the larger one which fits just about perfect. Here's the link to the product...
Here's a pic of a small 4lb+ bone-in pork shoulder I did for pulled pork on my TMLE:
And here is the final iteration of a deflector/diffuser plate crafted from an aluminum cookie sheet I picked up at Target for $12. I get temps end to end within 5 degrees F of each other with this setup. Easy...
I love my Brinkmann TrailMaster LE. After some mods, I have this thing dialed. I can get cook chamber end temps within 5 degrees of each other. I think folks who make it a point to do rib racks really need something with the cook surface area of an offset smoker. The BTMLE is a very good smoker...
That design isn't going to work. It isn't "baffling" the flow, it's blocking it. As was mentioned, you need to provide a series of holes for the heat to access the upper part of the chamber.
Further, the end up against the firebox inlet appears to be almost closing it off. That isn't going to...
It's about what one should expect from a $300 smoker made in China. The high heat generated at the firebox surely undercuts the paint bond. A rattle can of high-temp black automotive or BBQ paint will do wonders. A good wipedown on the outside with WD-40 before storing is also a good idea. It's...
I'm going to disagree wholeheartedly about using the exhaust stack to "control" the hot end of the smoker. Wind, even gusty wind blowing across the top of the stack, isn't going to change the exhaust draft in any measurable way. It would somehow have to artificially create a fairly large zone of...
I picked up a pair of pneumatic utility/wheelbarrow tires from Harbor Freight for my Brinkmann TMLE. They work great, are a lot quieter than the steel wagon wheels, and aren't so hard on my patio concrete.
Roughly 40" long x 17" wide x 8" (peak height) measured at/from the cook grate. Subtract any intrusions (like the dryer vent 'stack extension') from the length.
Actually, draft is a function of stack length (i.e. height) rather than thermal efficiency. Next time you're in those conditions, try facing the firebox's intake toward the wind and see if that helps.
Rifle: Thanks! It's a tackdriver.
It's a fuel quality AND quantity issue. In my experience, both Cowboy and Royal Oak just don't have the consistency and available energy to generate the temps required to power a cooking chamber the size of the TMLE's. I use a base of Kingsford Blue and large lump from Ozark Oak in the charcoal...
A hot, properly drafting fire should have no trouble maintaining exhaust flow even in decent breezes/wind. My guess is your fire was on the low/smouldering side and the breezes were sufficient to stifle the draft and get the air luffing backwards through the system.
Not really. Well, one could argue that opening the cooking chamber door is another avenue of "draft", but since the firebox is sized the way it is, then that defeats the purpose of engaging in the smoking process to begin with. It's like cooking a turkey in your kitchen oven with the door open...
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