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Hi All,
I made a list of stuff to finnish:-
Chimney cap (keep water out)
Vent handles
Door handle
Light mounts
move brake cables mounting
weight screws modification
Wheel Heat shields
Fire basket
top cook shelf
shelf runners
Door catch?
Padlock hole for door
Outside Shelf
jockey wheel
fat drain...
I've started the vents, just tacked in place currently. Still need to make the handles, but I have an idea how to make them easy to adjust and lock in position.
The idea was to also be able to rake the ash out of the holes.
I must finish something.....
I've done the working part of the door catch, just need to decide on what to use for a handle.
The reverse flow plate is now in, its stich welded in every 4" or so, It fits really well. Does it need to be fully welded?
I've also picked up the paint.
Regards
Michael
Last night I made the firebox door catch, I'll get a photo up as soon as I can.
There was a gap of about 1/4" in the middle of the top edge of the cooking chamber door. I put a straight edge on it and the door was bowed out a little and the chamber was bowed in a little. The rest of the door...
I've done a fair bit of welding considering I am a youngster at 32 compared to lots of you experienced builders. I had a late night on a holiday weekend, and had to visit my workshop to meet someone on the Sunday morning, I felt I should do a little while I was there. Head inside the firebox was...
I have a question, If I put my reverse flow plate level with the top of the firebox (yellow line) there is only about 5" inches beween the plate and the cooking grate. With plenty of room underneath. Would it be benificial to drop it down (green line) giving more room between the two. Or would...
The box is tacked in place, should be fully welded in tonight. I had to mount it quite high in the chamber to get some ground clearance. The rear of the box is just resting in its current place, I think i'm going to weld it in place and cut a smaller door into it. The gap at the bottom is for an...
Hi All,
Sorry for being away and not updating, I got busy with other things and had a few hold ups.
Back underway.....
At the sandblasters.
Capping over the bosses, for decoration only.
Firebox underway. This is looking at the chamfer I put on the bottom corner, to help stop it...
It will be used as a business, doing events etc.
We want to be able to smoke a butterfly'd pig on it, as well as all the usual stuff.
The shelves will be removeable.
I was thinking of putting a 4" tall back on the shelf to stop stuff falling off the back. Is this common?
Michael
My steel turned up yesterday. I've made one shelf so far, its 4'x3'.
Its made from 1" angle with quite a heavy gauge expanded metal. Its removeable, not fitted the stops yet to stop it pulling out too far.
I'm unsure where to put the upper shelf. I have 15" from the top of my current shelf, to...
I did try and design folding ones, hinged in one direction. So the weight would be working until it touched the chamber then 'broke free' and rolled down the back of the chamber as you continued opening it. When you shut the door it would 'pick up' the weight when the door reached the same point...
Hi Ribwizzard
I totally understand the method you describe, Its a very good method.
The problem I have is that as my chamber is quite a large diameter and the door is quite far around the side. To get a counter weight behind the hinge pin, that doesn't restrict the amount the door opens it...
I dismissed the external weights initially because the only way they would have a large enough swing is to over hang the sides. I thought this would look a bit stupid.
I'm now thinking they may look ok if I make them into Bull Horns.
I think I may have to go with the designs below. I put a scale under the handle and it weighs 40lbs, So I want to counter balance some of this weight to make it open easier.
If I move my external weight to the chamber side of the hinge, the door doesn't open far enough. The internal hinge...
I've had a few hours in the office trying to figure out how to balance my door.
The problem is that my door is quite far around the side, so to get a counter weight the other side of the hinge point to help balance the door, it greatly restricts the door opening amount.
The best way I can see...
Its actually 7mm thick (9/32"), That's why its so damn heavy! It was our favourite price though, free!
I was thinking of welding about 5" of it on, then buying a piece of 3mm (1/8") to hinge on to it.
Or like you say, slip on extension.
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