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Those panel mount marine circuit breakers are nice. I ran across them when I worked on an 80s cabin cruiser electrical system. I used one as a power switch and circuit protection in my homemade Auber powered PID controller, can't beat them.
I looked at their replacement parts. They use a standard thermostat with 2 wires connected to it so as long as your switch has the correct current rating you should be good to go.
the relay in the box on bottom could be stuck on. Look at the element after the red light goes off and see if it is still red hot. Or take off the heating element cover and see if there
10 degrees is not much between 2 sensors. The physical size and style of sensor makes a big difference. The best way to test the differential between the 2 is to tie them together with bare copper wire. One might lag behind the other but tied together they should match once they are saturated .
Your thermocouple should be no bigger than 1/8" in diameter and stick out into the smoker about 3 inches. The placement does make a difference too. I like mine to be about 1/3rd from the top of the smoker. My temperature probe is not mounted, it just hangs in the smoker.
The element can have the correct resistance and still have a short to the casing of the element, ground fault, which would trip a GFCI. You can check for the short but sometimes it only shows when the element is hot. My MES40 ran for years with a ground fault. just had to be careful with it.
A guy in FB group has mentioned that if your drip pan is blocking air flow it can cause this. You should have room on all side of the drip pan for air to flow around it.
If you have an Auber controller that has a thermistor it would be easier to get the temp sensor from them. I haven't messed with thermistors in a long time and off hand I have no idea how to figure out what style they use. However if you need an RTD / PT100 or PT1000 you can drill it down on...
I guess I should have said PT100, instead of an RTD.
Anyway I'm going to have to disagree with you on you statement that an RTD can be a thermistor. An RTD is a resistance temperature detector, however thermistors are not considered an RTD. Thermistors are acually considered a semiconductor...
I'm going to chime in here. I did a drawing for a guy a while ago for 220vac PID connection. Make sure you ground eveything metal. If you use terminal, use ring termanls on the grounds. One more thing. If that PID controller will accept PT-100 sensors you should use one. Auber Instruments has...
This is for electric smokers in general. Electric smokers that use the heating element to burn the chips need a swing to burn them. If not the element will not get hot enough for an amount of time to do this. This is why you need a smoke tube or smoke generator when converting to a PID...
You can use a paper clip to test the DC voltage that powers the top controller. The pins are usually marked on the board next to the connector. One will say GRND or neg. The other will have a + sign and or something like 5vdc or 12vdc. Wrap the paper clips around each meter probe.
Older post but just read it. Very nice write up. I've seen a lot of people use various types of plug-ins and connectors for their thermocouples. Most people don't think twice about it. That's one of the main reasons I always recommend using a 3 wire RTD for temp feed back. That way they don't...
The temp swing is how they get the wood to smoke. Without them you would need a smoke generator or smoke tube. If you go the PID route you'll need the same.
Thanks,
I did the large chunks of meat because it's what I am used to buying in Laplace. I've heard it makes a big difference in the taste and I have to agree. I do plan on doing a batch with thyme, some say that makes it a New Orleans style of andouille.
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