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Yeah, you will need some sort of sleeve to resist the twist when it locks down. If you have a couple of small pieces of 1/4 left over from the firebox, just stack a couple and drill a hole and you will be good to go.
Dave is right on this one, stainless expands 50% more than mild steel in the temperature range of smoker operation. It is also much harder to cut than mild steel making it tougher to work with if you don't have plasma, laser, or very fine tooth blades. I think the old rule of thumb was at least...
I couldn't find the post Ribwizzard did on the subject but I did find where he commented about it on another thread. He said to make sure to paint the metal first, it seems when he applied silicone on the bare metal, it rusted before the RTV cured. Must have something to do with the solvents in...
You may want to consider firing it up before you sandblast and paint to make sure you don't need to make any changes. It will be much easier to make tweeks now if they are needed.
Powder coat could work on the CC but you may want to wait until you see how cool the outside of the firebox runs with the insulation. Do you have an IR thermometer?
I'm liking that floor in the shop, looks way more like work is going on than it did when you started...
Be careful with that firebox, heavy as hell and bulky, you can put a nut out with that thing....
Your last pictures didn't post for some reason. It sounds like you need an upper air vent in line with the CC/FB opening which will allow you to move air through the smoker easier which will help to control temperatures.
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