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You may want to brace where the hinges attach to the door. You are welding to the edge of the flat bar which is not very strong. It will bend or crack. Looking good
it's borderline for the height of the coal tray. Maybe jam some rebar under it to stop it saggin.
I see there is not door seal, so you may not have much draw on the smoker. post some pics of the whole smoker set up.
Maybe yo have a leaky smoker and the stack is not drawing correctly.
For the doors do as above then use the silicone trick
clean the door well and appy a fat bead of silicone.
on the cook chamber I usually tape lunch wrap ( not sure what y'all call it) around the edge then cover with cooking oil.
Close the door and leave for 1-2 days.
Easy and works well...
Spend a few hours dialing the door in so you have minimal gap. (Large hammer, blocks of wood, bottle jack). You will be suprized how much it moves.
A lot of the time can fix a wayward door by opeing it, sticking small piece of wood near the hinge and then tweaking it slightly.
I use 1 x1/8" for the seal and TIG weld it. If one of my guys don't have a TIG I usually get them to notch on an angle facing inwards then they can use a grandps welder (electrode) so it does not fill it too much.
Lots of newbies here are eager to try out their welding skills and weld the...
Perkins rope gasket. tack 1/2" angle to make a right angle for it to lay against then run a bead of silicone to hold it there.
Last for years on smokers used daily
About 30- 40% of the cooker volume will work well.
Post some pics and more details for accurate answers.
http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/a/reverse-flow-smoker-how-to-calculate-build-tutorial
Your confusing yourself with all that math BS.
Here's where I would cut it and I have cut alot of tanks btw.
mark 12 o'clock on the tank nd for a 1 meter diameter tank I would mark 250mm down from 12.
Mark 3 o'clock then mark 75mm below 3 and that is your bottom cut.
Here is a little...
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