Remove MES30 wood chip housing?

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cmayna

Master of the Pit
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Jun 23, 2012
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When I did my MES40 mailbox mod, I did not remove its wood chip housing for it's foot print size was pretty small, But since I'm doing another mailbox mod here, looking at this MES30 housing in place, it covers a fair amount. Pretty big foot print. So I ask if most remove all or partial of this housing or......leave it in place. Also, is part of it, a partial support for the element?
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When I did mine Craig, in my MES 30 Gen 1, I also switched my MES 30 element to a MES 40 element. I left the water bowl in, since I use it as a heat sink. With the water bowl in place as a heat deflector anyway, I didn't see any advantage to removing the chip tray housing. So I just left it in place.
Gary
 
I dont own an MES30 but I removed all that in my MES40 and flipped the element which I think I learned from one of your posts :)
 
I considered removing the Wood chip housing on my MES 40 Gen 1, if I do, how do I keep any drippings off of the element?
 
Like tallbm tallbm , my 40 is gutted completely except for flipped burner and burner cover. Mailbox hose fits in chip burner hole snuggly.
 
I considered removing the Wood chip housing on my MES 40 Gen 1, if I do, how do I keep any drippings off of the element?

Just a good reason why to leave it in place. In my 40, I put a layer of tin foil on top of the burner (wood) cover. Makes it easier to clean. Guess I will do the same in the 30.

Yeah, briefly thought (brain fart) about flipping the new element, but when I looked at the improvement it would create, nope.

Thanks everyone for your comments. Will keep the wood chip housing in place. For sure, helps keep the dripping off the element. An element umbrella?
 
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I considered removing the Wood chip housing on my MES 40 Gen 1, if I do, how do I keep any drippings off of the element?

Most of my smokes I use a foil pan but I mostly smoke briskets and pork butts and chickents. Things that are big, drippy, and will go into the pan later anyhow.

On other items that are less drippy like boneless skinless chicken breast, jerky, sausage, bacon, etc. then so little drippings are produced I just roll with it and the element gets some dripping on it but its not much.

Pork ribs would maybe be the 1 item that drips a little more than other items but hasn't been an issue. I can also do a pan for that as well but when I do 1-2 racks I often don't use a pan and just roll with it.

Not saying this is a great or even smart approach but its one that works for me and my element is still going but I think my element is not in tip top shape and is the reason my GFCI break likes to flip when I put it on there. I cant say whether drippings or just normal MES element wear and tear and quality may be the reason but it's still going for me and for $20-25 I'll replace an element when it completely dies on me :)
 
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That's good info. I use a pan on the grate under most of my drippy foods. I feel the meat directly on the grate may get a little more smoke all the way around, and the pan on the grate under the meat allows more smoke than if the meat is inside the pan. Whole Turkey or Chickens I put inside the pan as the have a lot of liquid dripping. I'll probably leave the wood chip cover on for the time being. My MES 40 Gen 1 is working so well since I put the Auber PID on a year ago, I don't want to jinx anything, lol.
 
That's good info. I use a pan on the grate under most of my drippy foods. I feel the meat directly on the grate may get a little more smoke all the way around, and the pan on the grate under the meat allows more smoke than if the meat is inside the pan. Whole Turkey or Chickens I put inside the pan as the have a lot of liquid dripping. I'll probably leave the wood chip cover on for the time being. My MES 40 Gen 1 is working so well since I put the Auber PID on a year ago, I don't want to jinx anything, lol.

Hey if it aint broke dont fix it haha!
I agree with your smoke findings when using pans. I never put anything in the pan directly I have racks that fit in the pan OR I just put the pan on lower rack and lay another smoker rack directly on the pan and put the meat on that rack. My meat is always raised out of the pain whether its brisket, pork butts, ribs, chickens, or turkeys :)
 
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I would think that the life expectancy of a heating element is directly proportional to how much fat/drippings falls on the element.
I'll be a good test case to find out :D
 
That will only work if you ignore any and all buildup on and around the element. Can’t see you letting it get that far. LOL

There is a little but of stuff on it but nothing I would call "build up" more of some ruminants of the last smoke that didnt fully burn away. It never gets like crusty and coated all over. It is somewhat self cleaning :)
 
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When I gutted my 40 and flipped burner, I re-mounted the element cover for protection.
I like the infrared treatment here. For the IR radiated downward, the shiny foil is reflective and that thermal energy is significantly reflected back to the cooker region. You DON'T want the red-hot element radiating downward to a dark rusty bottom where half its considerable IR heat gets air-convected away to the outside world. The only thing I'd suggest different here is to wrinkle up the Al foil before laying it down so instead of laying flat on the bottom, it only touches on the lines where a wrinkle touches. That reduces the heat that is conducted to the lower floor of the smoker. I agree catching drips and aiding cleanup is important too.

The upper foil functions as both IR shield and re-radiator. You DON'T want the element to be uncovered otherwise food on lower racks get an uneven radiation pattern. If you have doubts about this, place a piece of white paper on the lower rack without the cover. As you raise the temp, you'll see a brown pattern develop on the paper in the shape of the "shadow" of the element shape. (Remove it before it actually ignites.)

For this shield you prefer a relatively thick piece of metal, preferably dark in color underneath, to intercept the IR and conduct the heat throughout its thickness. Since it will not likely glow red, its heat will mostly be convectively carried away into the smoker. What little radiant heat is left will be reflected UP (but uniformly) due to the shiny foil cover on its surface. And again, it's good for cleanup.

Most materials get softer at red-hot temps so although the element appears to hold its own weight just fine supported only at the connector end, I don't recommend it. I suggest you form two "feet" of thin sheet steel notched in a V or half-circle on the top edge for the element to rest into. (You'll note most kitchen ovens implement supports like this for their elements.)
 
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bill1,
Some very good info, with a BIG thanks. I agree that for those who have their element not supported with the stock wood chip housing or similar, a couple support feet is a good move.

The wrinkled foil at the bottom is also a very good idea. The bottom of my MES40 always has a foil tray that covers the entire bottom. Maybe I can wrinkle it up a little more.
 
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I just dedicated the bottom rack to an air bake drip pan that covers the element. Just need to keep the back wall dry so grease above the element doesn't run down on the non heating element legs. The bottom side of the pan on the rack is black from smoke. Sliding the pan from symmetrical spacing all around to the left or right a half or whole rung on the rack evens heat left to right on the second from the top rack (my go to rack.) Seems the two disp alum 15x11 baking sheets , making the insulated air space with the drip pan on top of it keeps fat from vaporizing so much after the PID settles to a 2 degree swing as most juices are dripping. I used the same element mounting hole in the smoker and cut the element bracket so the piece on the legs is symmetrical after carefully bending the element male spades 180 to install the element upside down. The top piece with two screws went back on top to seal and hold the silicone gasket. First I used a longer ground bolt with an extra nut on the inside of the element access junction box to support the element so it's free standing above the rails, then I could screw the cut piece of mounting bracket above the piece with element legs.

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