40" MES 800 watt heating element MOD

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texacajun

Meat Mopper
Original poster
Feb 23, 2010
236
17
Wichtia KS
I am new to the site and was looking to see if anyone has ever replaced there 800 watt heating element on the older 40" MES with one of the newer 1200 watt heating elements. Also anyone now if the Electric Control Panel for the newer and older MES are the same so this MOD can be done. I thought about calling masterbuilt to find out if i could order a new 1200 watt heating element to help my smoker recover quicker after the door has been opend. From what i understand the newer MES 1200 heating element is replaceable unlike the old 800 heating element.
 
Even if nobody has done it yet, maybe we can figure out if it's safe before hooking it up. I know there are a few people out there with both smokers; are the control boxes the same? Remember, the new unit is consuming ~3 amps more than the old. I don't want to see anybody melt their control unit! "Uh, honey, is brisket supposed to smell like burnt plastic?"
 
I e-mailed Masterbuilt with that same question a few weeks ago and this was their response:


We do not recommend interchanging the elements as that unit is not designed to carry the larger wattage. However, if you wish to purchase one, they are in stock and available for $39.99 each.

Please give us a call with any questions or concerns at 800-489-1581. Our offices are open Monday through Friday, 8 AM to 5 PM EST.


Thank you for doing business with Masterbuilt.


Sam Liedtke
[email protected]
Customer Service
Masterbuilt Mfg.
 
Hmmmm sounds like a challenge. I will have to talk to my engineer buddy and see what his thoughts are on the 3 amps. Anybody with both can you see a differnce in mounting?
 
I have sold my other 2, 800 watters I have nothing to compare it to. All I have now is the 1200.
 
Anybody whose warranty is long gone could open it up and snap some pictures... just sayin'.
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The MES uses bang-bang control, right? If so, it probably comes down to finding the thinnest wire or capacitor with the highest ESR and replacing it with something beefier. Or maybe just pay the piper and get a new box...
 
After reading the responses I will give it a try. I am going to upgrade the wireing and the connectors on the back of the heating element. I did read on this forum about the wireing being 16 Gauge. Any one now if the new unit has the same 16 Gauge or is the old one 14 Gauge. Befor i do the 1200 watt heater upgrade i will upgrade to 16 Gauge wire to help with the 3 extra amps the 1200 heating element pulls. I will post pics of the MOD and keep everyone informed. Thanks for everyones input.
 
Since your opening the back do it right go 12 gauge, you then won't have to worry about it. 14 ga would be the minimum you would want.


Note to those that asked about the controller if same as old one?
NO it isn't the new models have the meat probe built in.

What you could do to save the old controller, is put a relay or contactor with a 120v coil in the circuit. The controller when activating heat element would send the juice down the wire to the contactor coil and close the circuit for 115v to the heat element. When controller deactivates the power to coil is off thus opening the circuit for the element.
 
I'd use 12 gauge if doing the mod. You increasing the wattage by 50%--14 gauge probably isn't 50% larger in diameter than the 16 gauge, the 12 gauge would be more. I'm not saying there is a direct correlation between wattage/wire diameter, it's just what I think I'd do.
 
After thinking about it some more, the bigger wire might be overkill. I replaced the heating element in my kitchen oven several years ago. As I recall, the wires running to the element were very small--16, maybe 14 gauge at the most. You may be fine without the 12 gauge.
 
16 gauge is thinner than 14 gauge. So you would be going the wrong way. 12 gauge would be even better. Regular house wiring is usually 14 guage.
 
The PCB in the controller, at least in the new 40", is potted with a silicon material. Removing it wouldn't be too much of a hassle, but will be your only shot in determining component ratings, such as caps, relays, etc., and replacing.

I don't think you'll have much of an issue with the larger element as the element probably isn't sourced directly through the PCB. The components on the PCB are not running at 120V AC.
 
I took the main board out and cleand it up. Here are some pics of the board with close ups of the everything on. I am looking up everything to find out if it will handle the load for the 1200 heating element and if it is the same as the new MES. I ordered the 1200 watt heating element from Masterbuilt today it will be in sometime next week so hopefully i will have it figured out by then any help would be great.Attachment 24087

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The above componet shows the coil voltage (5amp at 30vdc) and the relay voltage (10amps 125 VAC).

A 1200 watt element will draw 10.43 amps at 115vac, it will never see 125vac. Voltage on house circuit will be 110-115 volts.

So while the above component might carry the load a few times it will most likely fail after a few uses. If when it was made the tolerances were not tight it might be able to handle the load a many uses and then again it might fail on 1st usage.

However, it looks like they may be using the above low voltage relay, which switches to 115v then the 115v is sent to the 2 prong contactor using 115 volts on the coil and the contact rating has a 15amp rating and should easily carry the load. (I need to see what wires are attached to the 2 prong contactor, was these the wires going to the heat element or were these the wires bring electrical to the controller?)





Texacajun, when you get the new element, can you start a new thread and do a step by step with all the pics, so we can put this mod in the list of MES Hot mods and have a well documented MES mod... thx
 
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