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Adding gas assist - Page 2

post #21 of 27

Tejas sells one---

Here is how they describe part number 1504 below...... you think you could adapt this? its only 20 bucks! Let me know, and I can still PM that friend of mines number if you need it, but I will need to ask him if he is Ok with that. His primary business is equipment, not parts. If anything, he will certainly be able to help steer us in the right direction:-)

Log lighter pipe / gas assist with brass adapter (to fit a LPG hose) The LPG gas log lighter pipe will save you a half hour every time you start your logs. Simply turn on the gas from your propane tank and light the log lighter, wait a few minutes, and the logs are in flames. This procedure also eliminates the need for using charcoal and smelly charcoal lighter fluid. The natural gas version is available at the same price by request. This unit also works well as a gas assist for maintaining a constant temperature in a pit when you don't want to use wood logs or charcoal. A relatively small flame will maintain the pit at 225 degrees (or higher). The log lighter pipe itself, not including the cast iron venturi (gas/air mixing chamber) is 16 1/4" long. Measuring from the end of the venturi closest to the pipe, there is 4 1/4" of just pipe before the first hole. Then a series of holes continue for 10 1/2". Measuring from the last hole there is 1 1/2" of just pipe to the end of the unit. It all adds up to 16 1/4" of pipe length. The venturi (gas/air mixing chamber) is 3 1/4" long. The entire log lighter is 18 1/2" long. Wt. 1 # 11 oz. Free shipping.
post #22 of 27
Thread Starter 

log starters

Steve, I think I have decided to build the burner out of high grade non galv. steel pipe. I found a web site that has plans for a simple 2 row burner. Gas holes are 1/16 diameter on the burner. Spacing I am not sure yet. Cap one end and I can buy the venturi and orifice from TJS. That way I can use all same size pipe which I have. 3/4 inch black pipe. Plan on using an inline shut off and a 10lbs regulator. I have found a controller that is brass. I think it will work with a reducer from the 3/4 inch main line to 3/8. I will call TJS and make sure of the size of there LP orifice and go from there. Does this sound about right. I am sure by now you realize I am not a plumber. icon_smile.gif
post #23 of 27

Sounds like a plan---

Sounds like a plan---I think it should work. I have a friend who made new tube burners for his gas grill by drilling out stainless steel pipe.

The only complications I can think of is the air mix and the orifice size. As long as you start off with a small hole first, you can always move up a size if needed. I think regulator sizes can be changed too, if needed.

If you are anything like me(i need to see it and touch it) and want some really good ideas, try to find a local "used" restaurant appliance dealer, a guy that has old broilers, ovens, slicers, griddles, that he buys from failed restaurants and re-sells. Maybe he would let you look at the way they are built, you can get some pretty cool ideas---also, he may have an old part you can use---just tell him you'll make him some ribs!!!! If you are able to get some old cast iron grates, that would make you a real nice firebox grate---never warp.

Just another thought----if you had a product like a brush burner with a flex hose, I would think that as long as the hose was outside the box, you could cut it and adapt it to your back pipe using a brass barbed fitting to pipe thread. Maybe too much"jury rigg'n" there, but I was just brainstorming.

post #24 of 27
Thread Starter 

ordered some parts

Steve, I ordered the venturi and a bug screen from TJS. They said it was already set up for the pipe burner as planned. Also they recommended a 0-20 adjustable regulator which i ordered also. The inline shutoff valve and fittings/ebows ,ect. I will get local. The grate in my fire box is not the standard expanded metal thin stuff. The frame is made from angle iron not tubular and the grate itself is a heavier expanded about 1/4 inch thick! If that becomes a problem I can replace it later. With the adjustable regulator do you think I need a controller valve at the burner?

TJS also suggested that the 2 rows of burner holes be at 45 degrees from each other and to place the burner holes down, to minimize clogging with ash. My idea for placement in the fire box is simple. A pipe sleeve through rear of fire box and a set thumb screw to hold the burner in the sleeve. Wont be air tight but I figure I can compensate with the fire box dampers. Will be easy to get out and clean though. I will get the distubution tree from Cabelas to allow me to hook up my campchef duel burner stove and that should about do it other than I am going to go with 1/2 inch schedule 40 instead of the 3/4 I have. Burner will by 3/4.
post #25 of 27
Thread Starter 

Design drawings

Attachment 10070
Ok so I aint no artist but this is the design of the propane assist as I see it for my Lang. Any suggestions or comments appreciated.

The home mad burner is total 18 inches without venturi. 1 inch undrilled at cap end and 5 inches undrilled at inlet end. It will be retained in a pipe sleeve with a set screw, 2 inches inside fire box before first flame hole. The remaining 3 inches will be outside fire box inside pipe sleeve. I hope this will support the burner without using legs.
post #26 of 27

Looks great!

Can't wait to see it as you build it:-)

Talk later,

post #27 of 27
Thread Starter 

Cut pipe.

I cut the pipe and threaded today. Wil pick up adapters and fittings later this week. When I am ready to dry fit the basic system I will take pics. Probably next week as my wife has camera in Missouri at grandmothers 96th birthday. The lady ate lard all her life. I look at fat and have to have my arteries roto rootered. icon_exclaim.gif
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