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Dairy Cooler build

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 


Picked up this dairy cooler for $40, all metal inside. Started to gut it out and was wondering if this insulation will be sufficient for hot smoking? What is your guys opinions on a smoke generator? Any advise would be great! Got a auber pid and a brinkmann element for heat and control. Thank You

post #2 of 14

From your picture looks like fiberglass. Here is what I found for temp. ranges of insulation.

Looks like Fiberglass is good to 1000 deg. F.

Insulation Material Temperature Range
Low High
(oC) (oF) (oC) (oF)
Calcium Silicate -18 0 650 1200
Cellular Glass -260 -450 480 900
Elastomeric foam -55 -70 120 250
Fiberglass -30 -20 540 1000
Mineral Wool, Ceramic fiber     1200 2200
Mineral Wool, Glass 0 32 250 480
Mineral Wool, Stone 0 32 760 1400
Phenolic foam     150 300
Polyisocyanurate or polyiso -180 -290 150 300
Polystyrene -50 -60 75 165
Polyurethane -210 -350 120 250
Vermiculite -272 -459 760 1400
post #3 of 14

For smoke generation you can't go wrong with one of Todd's  A-MAZE-N-SMOKER products.

Here is a link: http://www.amazenproducts.com/default.asp

post #4 of 14
Thread Starter 

I was looking at those. I can't seem to find any info on how they work or how they burn or where you put them? Can I build a offset box or put it right in the smoker? Thanks for your reply! 

post #5 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by benjfire View Post
 

I was looking at those. I can't seem to find any info on how they work or how they burn or where you put them? Can I build a offset box or put it right in the smoker? Thanks for your reply! 

You can do either of those. Search "mailbox mod" that is what a lot of people on here do so that you can hot and cold smoke. The generator will produce heat if you put it inside the smoker and in the smaller masterbuilt type cabinet smokers it gets to hot for cold smoking.

As far as how it works you just fill it up with pellets and light one end of it with a propane torch.

post #6 of 14
Thread Starter 

That looks like the set-up to me! I have a top vent bought for my smoker, do you think I would need a intake vent towards the bottom to get flow or will there be sufficient flow if the mailbow is vented?

post #7 of 14

You want to have the same amount of air going into your smoker as you have coming out you so that you avoid stale smoke in the cook chamber.

post #8 of 14

But if you pull to much air in thru your mailbox it will cause the pellets to flame instead of smolder. What I would do is put an adjustable air intake on the lower part of your box that is the same size as your exhaust out the top then you can regulate it so that you get the proper flow thru your mailbox for good smoke generation. 

post #9 of 14

your cooler is large enough you wont really ned a mailbox mod to cold smoke. The space is so large you can keep the temp down with decent airflow. Just keep the tray need the air intake.

 

you're ok with glass insulation. Though Roxul is preferred due to being a little denser and better flame resistance.

post #10 of 14
Thread Starter 

I have some wooden pieces for backing for the door and inside panels of this smoker. I'm assuming these will be alright to leave in there or should I replace with steel?

post #11 of 14

you could leave the wood, as long as its not too close to the heat source. make sure there is no wood near the element. if its has metal over it the walls and door will be fine. seal them up really well.

 

make sure there is no wood within several inches of the element, or under it. even if it has metal over it.

post #12 of 14
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the help, I have a couple more questions. Can I use the typical high temp rtv silicone from like Carquest, or does it have to be some kind of food grade stuff? Do you think I can use the existing magnetic strip door seal, or should I get something else? It doesn't seem much different from the door gasket on my Masterbuilt?

post #13 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by benjfire View Post
 

Thanks for the help, I have a couple more questions. Can I use the typical high temp rtv silicone from like Carquest, or does it have to be some kind of food grade stuff? Do you think I can use the existing magnetic strip door seal, or should I get something else? It doesn't seem much different from the door gasket on my Masterbuilt?


From what I gather, looks like I might have to buy a silicon gasket and add a latch for the door?

post #14 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by benjfire View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by benjfire View Post
 

Thanks for the help, I have a couple more questions. Can I use the typical high temp rtv silicone from like Carquest, or does it have to be some kind of food grade stuff? Do you think I can use the existing magnetic strip door seal, or should I get something else? It doesn't seem much different from the door gasket on my Masterbuilt?


From what I gather, looks like I might have to buy a silicon gasket and add a latch for the door?

In my opinion and in my smokers, I use the high temp silicone as long as it does not come in direct contact with food. As for the door gasket I would try the existing magnetic one to see if it works ok at sealing the cook chamber. What may happen is that the existing seal might not do well with heat.

Wolf!!!   

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