It's good that I just checked in for the first time in a while and saw your post. I haven't been on the site much for the last few months.
In the past year I suspect that I've bought, refurbished and resold maybe 7-8 Hobart and Univex bowl choppers with some of them going to members here. I don't consider myself an expert but based on my experience......
If you haven't already done so make a trip to Hobart's website and download the operators and parts manual (combined in one booklet) for the unit. https://my.hobartcorp.com/resourcecenter/Resource%20Center%20Help/How%20To%20Search%20for%20Product%20Documentation%20By%20Model%20Number.aspx
The lube called for in the manual is about impossible to find which is no surprise for a manual first printed more than 40 years ago. After a call to Hobart they said to use any lithium/soap grease. Remove the bottom cover (if present) and you'll likely find that the old grease has broken down and is seeping past the gaskets and what isn't running out has turned into stiff glue. A couple of cans of brake parts cleaner or degreaser and an old toothbrush are in order as the old lube can be a gold plated PITA to get cleaned out. My experience has been that the gaskets have gotten stiff with age but will seal well when you reassemble the unit. Tighten the gasket cover screws in stages.
There is a sheet metal grease shield that may or may not have kept the deteriorated grease away from the electric knife switch so clean the switch area, too.
Check the cover interlock linkage to be sure it works correctly. You will want to clean and lube the ball and socket arrangement that connects the linkage to the switch and prevents the unit from being turned on while the cover is open. Clean and lube the interlock parts under the lid handle and the lid handle part but the handle parts should get food safe grease. A little goes a long way.
From my experience the early bowl cutters such as yours and the 84141 had tinned cast iron lids and the later models are aluminum. The heavy cast iron lids caused more wear on the lid hinge pins so the early units had sacrificial brass cam pins to allow for adjusting the lid up/down left/right etc. Note that those pins are NOT available any more so take care of them. If they aren't too worn they can be adjusted after loosening the set screws (two on your unit) and are helpful in stopping the lid from rubbing the bowl while cutting down on food that escapes from under the lid. If the bowl rim is out of true you can get it back to the correct shape with a bit of cautious mallet or hammer work and a wood block to pad the bowl and keep from denting it.
There is a stop screw on the turntable that keeps the bowl from being jammed too far into the lock tabs and seizing there. They are usually in pretty good shape but if it appears worn change it before you have to wrestle the bowl off sometime (don't ask....).
The blades want to be adjusted (after truing the bowl, if needed) to between 1/16-1/8" from the bowl. I mark the bowl rim and rotate the blade shaft the couple hundred times needed to have the bowl rotate a full revolution to be sure the blades don't touch. The blades should be sharp but not razor sharp as they will dull quite quickly if too sharp. If you loosen the lock nut on the blade assembly a bit you can move the blades in or out by tapping them with a wood block.
I think your unit was shipped with a stainless steel bowl but I have seen 84142s with the earlier cast iron bowl off of an 84141. Metal Coating Company in Ohio does good retinning work at fair prices.
Well, I hope this helps you some. I'm off to split firewood for a bit. Please ask any other questions that you have. If you want to talk, shoot me a PM with a phone number.