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Master Built Pro 2 Door Smoker Propane Needle valve install, cast iron skillet for wood chunks, door gaskets

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

Kind of a recap for those who have considered how to lower chamber temperatures , hold in the smoke, and get a longer wood burn.

I installed a valve using adapter fittings to join a 1/4" NPT valve to a #6 SAE flare fitting. Made a cast iron chunk pan using a chinese cast iron 10" skillet and carriage bolts for legs. And sealed the doors with some nomex 1/8" thick gasketing. This smoker is my main go to for small batches. I use the big PS4400 for large loads.

 

 

 

 

 

post #2 of 11

I am heading to Home Depot later today to purchase the additional parts.  Should be an easy tweak.  Thanks for the info!

post #3 of 11

i bought some parts at HD but didnt hook up bc im not sure if they are the correct parts.  Did you buy any other parts other than the 1/4 NPT and #6 SAE flare (assuming 1/4 male on each end too)?  I buying off amazon now.

 

Thanks for all the help.  My temp is still running high.  I realized too my unit doesnt have sidevents either

post #4 of 11
I've been reading about these needle valves. Where do you get them? My main concern is that looking at my lowest flame, how much lower can I go without worrying about "blow outs"? I have nomex seals on the doors, and just leaving the door set open a little keeps the temp at roughly 240.
post #5 of 11
The bbq store here sold me a ball valve and said it would work. Do you think it will work as good as a needle valve?
post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin johnny View Post

The bbq store here sold me a ball valve and said it would work. Do you think it will work as good as a needle valve?


Not at ALL!! Ball valve is meant as an on-off device. Needle valve is for adjustments. You can get there with a

ball valve, but a very small movement makes a very big adjustment.

post #7 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by lonestarmedic View Post


Not at ALL!! Ball valve is meant as an on-off device. Needle valve is for adjustments. You can get there with a
ball valve, but a very small movement makes a very big adjustment.

I agree. It will work in a pinch, but VERY tuff to adjust. I was doing some chickens, and my needle valve didn't arrive on time. I installed a gas shutoff valve in a pinch. The tiniest adjustment on the valve made a big difference in the flame. I was constantly adjusting to keep temps steady.
I swapped it out as soon as my needle valve arrived. Very easy to keep temps where I need them.
post #8 of 11

Do you open the valve on your tank and the valve on the smoker all the way, and then just use the needle valve to control temp?

post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
I open tank about an eighth of a turn then burner on high to light. Keeps the excess flow valve from triggering. Then I open tank about a half turn or so. Adjust main burner valve to low. Then I start using the needle valve. So I tune the smoker control with the needle valve. Has been working well this way on both my smokers for about a year now. Needle valve takes about 3 turns or so from wide open to start effecting the gas flow to the smoker.
post #10 of 11

What kind of needle valve did you buy and where did you buy it? 

post #11 of 11

I bought mine from bayouclassicdepot.com. You can check mine out in the following:

 

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/237201/nates-masterbuilt-30-2-door-propane-mods#post_1492825

 
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