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MYPIN TA4 PID manual, programming instructions and general PID/SSR info - by request

post #1 of 86
Thread Starter 

Seems over the past few months I've gotten about a half dozen PM messages requesting more info on the MYPIN TA4 PID controller configuration, a copy of a better manual, or general assistance with MYPIN TA4 and SSR issues.  So, I thought I would just post some of the documents in a stand alone post to make it easier for people to find the info when they need it.

 

If you are not familiar with a MYPIN TA4 it is an inexpensive Chinese PID controller often found on E-bay for anywhere from $10 to $25.  Let me through this caveat out for those considering purchasing a TA4.  I have not personally purchased one, but I do know a little bit about them and how they work. There are a lot of "knock offs" of the real TA4's being sold on E-bay (who would thought inexpensive Chinese stuff would be "knocked off" by the Chinese, but I digress).  I also have heard of people who have bought them and they were dead out of the box and never worked properly.  So it's sort of like anything you buy for the lowest dollar possible on E-bay that comes from China, it will either work or be a total waste of your time & money.  With that out of the way, let's get started....

 

Note:***  I personally would go with one of the Auber Instruments PID controllers (not sure if they are a forum sponsor, so I don't want to post a direct link - but google it and it's easy to find).  There are a lot of people in here and on other forums who use their products.  Seem to be very good quality, have excellent customer service and tech support, and they are located in Alpharetta, Georgia (USA).  And their prices are very reasonable IMO.

 

The TA4 is just one of a housing style the TA series controller is available in.  I believe these guidelines would generally apply to all the TA series.

 

 

The MYPIN TA4 is a PID temperature control device similar to the Aubrin units which are popular with DIY type projects in both the BBQ smoking and home-brewing (beer!!!) communities.  It is a digital device that uses a temperature probe to sense the temperature of a process and apply a programed action at a user designated set point, either turning on or off another higher load device, such as a electric heating element in BBQ applications.  They can also control power draft fans, pumps, valves, and dang near any other electrical device you can think of.  The TA4 comes in several configurations, with the SSR (Solid State Relay) triggering output or Relay (dry contact relay or simple relay switch) being the most common.

 

General specifications for the TA4 and how to read the specifics of a particular model can be found in this chart:

 

 

Here is a PDF of the full product info and configuration guide:

 

MYPIN TA4 product info page.pdf 705k .pdf file

 

Here is the pin out schematic for the wiring of the screw terminals on the back of the TA4:

 


Here is a photos of the schematic on an TA4 (each units should have this schematic and I have been told there are some that differ from the general schematic MYPIN published, if the schematic on the side of your MYPIN is different that the drawing above, use the one on the actual PID!)

 

 

Here is the factory MYPIN TA series manual:

 

Mypin TA4 manual1.pdf 163k .pdf file

 

Here is a better version of the manual that is much clearer on the actual configuration of the various functions of the PID.  This is the document I seem to receive the most emails & PM's on requesting.  I found a newer revision than the one I've been sharing, and this is the latest version I have:

 

MYPIN TA4 PID Instruction Manual - good one.pdf 684k .pdf file

 

Now I'm not the end all Guru on PID's and SSR's but I'm more than happy to help when I think I can.  There are plenty of others in this forum who feel the same way (and probably know more than I ever will), so please feel free to post questions here and I'll try to help. 

 

I've got some general smoker PID to SSR & heating element schematics I will post once I tweak them a little bit.  But this is a start.


Edited by dward51 - 9/15/13 at 10:07am
post #2 of 86
Dave,

Been a while! Hope you and yours is doing well?!

You're once again spot on when it comes to the PID stuff! I'm still having good luck with my Chinese knock-off of a Japanese PID that I bought with an SSR from ebay for $21...mind you after I removed the mechanical relay from the board! I didn't use a heat sink, I used an old computer fan that pulls all the air away from the SSR and other electronics. I have smoked for 24 hours straight more than a few times and the PID has not even given me a hiccup!

I just got a project boat, so I've been on the forums less often, still smoking away the peppers for chipotle and almonds, jerky, butts, brisket and ribs...

~Brett

P.S. didn't mean to hi-jack the the thread!
post #3 of 86
Dude, you lost me at the title block!
post #4 of 86
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by goingcamping View Post

I just got a project boat, so I've been on the forums less often, still smoking away the peppers for chipotle and almonds, jerky, butts, brisket and ribs...

~Brett

P.S. didn't mean to hi-jack the the thread!

 

No hijack at all.  And you know what BOAT means . . . .   "Bust Out Another Thousand"  (I have my own hole in the water into which I pour money).  At the moment I need 5 new load range D tires to the tune of about $875.  So it's sitting on the trailer.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by miamirick View Post

Dude, you lost me at the title block!

 

Ok, suggestions as to what would be better?  I keep getting PM's asking for info, copies of the docs etc....  Figured it would show up in a search and made sense to make it a thread.  Or is the word MYPIN TA4 the turn off?  (not my choice either)

post #5 of 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by dward51 View Post

No hijack at all.  And you know what BOAT means . . . .   "Bust Out Another Thousand"  (I have my own hole in the water into which I pour money).  At the moment I need 5 new load range D tires to the tune of about $875.  So it's sitting on the trailer.

This is a 1995 Chris Craft 197 Concept Bowrider. It has a 5.0L Volvo-Penta (220HP) with the Volvo Penta/OMC Cobra SX drive. Newer trailer. The Boat's been sitting for 5 years in a storage lot...possibly needs a new motor (improper winterizing 5 years ago, hence why it's been sitting and price!) and vinyl then it should be a good little boat?! The Price was right (Free 99 free)

BTW, I've been told by many plane owners/pilots...boat owners have no idea how to spend money...I'm inclined to believe 'em!

~Brett
post #6 of 86

Thank you for the information I have been wanting to build something, but not really sure where to start, now I have the information on this part of the project.

As for the Boat thing I was always told "The 2 happiest days in a boat owners life, the day they bought it and the day they sold it."

post #7 of 86
Thread Starter 

Guess I'll hijack my own thread.....

 

here is my "hole in the water into which I pour money".  I have two of them (sort of like smokers, you start to collect them).  The Skeeter is the one needing $850 in tires right now.  It's stuck at the house until I get them.  Not worth rolling the dice to drive to the lake with that heavy beast on old tires and getting stuck in the middle of nowhere with little options to find tires.

 

2001 22' Skeeter ZX2200 Bay boat with 200HP Yamaha HPDI & 17.5' Lowe 170SP with 25hp Johnson (electric only and small lake boat).  The Skeeter is like a bass boat on steroids and laughs at fresh water wakes & waves.  The Lowe is not a small boat and is a 17x56 format.  It looks like a bath tub toy next to the big skeeter though.

 

post #8 of 86
I would not recommend this unit. I will likely be returning mine. It is reading 16 degrees too cold and there is not way to add to the offset, only to subtract. They admitted it's a bug in the software that they forgot to add addition functionality.
post #9 of 86

I can't link to the source because of the no-link policy here, but I found a bullet making forum (they use these things to melt lead too) where a guy was in touch with MYPIN and got this response:'

 

I have been in touch with Mypin recently.

They are a little 'embarrassed'. In fact they won't answer me right now.
It seems there is a bug in the PvF setting

You can't set a negative. They were rather shocked to discover this.
When ever they find an 'oops' and there was one other recently.
< they did a board revision and miffed on the connections. Shipments were on hold for a month while they fixed a few 1000 units >
They go silent. I think it's a hold over from the bad old commie days.
It's better to say nothing then admit a screwup.

The 'good' news is the unit very rarely needs a negative -the error, if there is one, is by far the other way.

post #10 of 86
Thread Starter 

Like I said in my initial post on this, it's a crap shoot buying low buck items from China.  But apparently sometimes they do work.

 

I also noticed another issue for those who have TA4's or want to roll the dice and see if they get a good one.  The schematics in the "official" MYPIN manual and the schematics on the sides of actual TA4 units can show totally different temperature probe hook ups.  The terminal numbers are not consistent.  Given their "ooops" with the software, would it be a far walk to find out there was also an "ooops" in either the printing of the labels or the manual?

 

Here is what I'm talking about:

 

This image is cut directly from the "official" MYPIN TA series manual PDF which I found at their English language section of their website when I started this thread last week.  Note the K-type temperature probe should be connected to terminals 7 & 8 in this schematic. Also note the indicated polarity of the probe leads. This is the schematic for the TA4.

 

Then note the schematic in this label which is from an actual photo of a TA4 PID controller.  The K-type temperature probe is shown to be connected to terminals 8 & 9 instead of 7 & 8 as in the PDF.  Not only are the terminal designations flipped, but again look at the indicated polarity of the terminals for a K-type probe.  Totally reversed (positive on top terminal in this image, where the PDF schematic has negative on top terminal). The terminal pin out designations for terminals 7 through 9 are totally different from the factory PDF schematic.  It looks like one is a mirror image of the other.  So here might be a clue....

 

 

So given their apparent admission to a programming "ooops" in the offset, how far a walk is it to assume they might have also screwed up the printing of the labels.  I would think if they screwed up the PDF, that's a 2 second fix and would not cost them anything.  You make the image change on the computer and re-distill the PDF to publish to the web.  But if they screwed up thousands of labels, that's not a free fix.  Much less admitting your mistake and having to try and recall units shipped out the door (a Chinese recall?  That's a good one....).  This is the logic behind my thinking the label might incorrect, or they may have multiple incarnations of internal wiring and the wrong labels get put on the wrong TA4 from time to time.

 

DeerDuckSmoker and I have been holding a side PM conversation about this, but I wanted to put it in the thread as well.   If you have issues with a temperature probe on a MYPIN TA4, try both of the schematic settings described above.  It should not hurt the PID or the probe if you have it one way and the PID is internally wired to the other.

 

Hopefully this will help him out (and others).

post #11 of 86

I just set up a simple experiment to test my understanding of the TA4 and SSR.   

All worked very well and after AT it kept my soldering iron at 200 degrees +- 5.      I observed that in normal controlling mode SV and PV are as expected.

If SET is presses the SV begins displaying a different parameter which is varying fairly rapidly  over time.

Usually between 0 and 25 .    

Pressing SET just toggles the SV display  between the set temperature and this varying number.

Does any one know what this  other number this  represents?   

 Thanks

           - Jim

post #12 of 86

My apologies in advance for "hijacking" the thread or posting off topic, as I'm a screen printer looking for some assistance with the MYPIN TA4. I've picked apiece the internet and have wrecked my brain trying to figure this out. It seems that this forum might have the most insight on my particular problem. 

 

I'm using the MYPIN to replace a burnt out FUJI temperature controller (Pictured). The MYPIN would ideally control two heating elements in a conveyor dryer (Just as the FUJI controller did before it burnt out).  I believe I have the wiring hooked up correctly to the new MYPIN, but when I power the machine on, it the MYPIN doesn't seem to be working correctly. The actual temperature value will exceed the set value on the MYPIN and continue to climb without stopping at any point. 

 

I'm frustrated as I'm not sure if the error is on my end, or the controllers. This is the second MYPIN I have tried in this machine with the same exact problem. I appreciate ANY help or insight someone man have to offer here, and will go to the extent of offering some FREE shirts to anyone that may be able to help!

 

Again I apologize for posting in this forum as I'm not a BBQ-er, (only amateur) but it seems this community is very knowledgeable on the subject! Thanks in advance for any help, and if anymore info or pictures are required please let me know and I'll post them up ASAP!

 

Old Controller (Left) and New (Right)

 

(TOP of old unit)

 

(Wiring config of old unit, slot "7" also has another "11" wire connected)

 

(Wiring diagram of old unit, wasn't hooked up exactly as this when I got the dryer but was functioning properly)

 

(Wiring of MYPIN as it is now, one additional jumper not pictured, I can provide a better picture if need be)

post #13 of 86

I'm thinking about using one of these for an air draft fan.

The electric fan I was looking at required 0.3a at 12v, and the TA4 only outputs 30ma in 24v.

Is there a SSR that will convert 24v to 12v and increase power enough to run the fan?

Do I even need a SSR?

 

Thanks for the help, (Most of this stuff is over my head, lol)

Slippin

post #14 of 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slippin View Post

I'm thinking about using one of these for an air draft fan.
The electric fan I was looking at required 0.3a at 12v, and the TA4 only outputs 30ma in 24v.
Is there a SSR that will convert 24v to 12v and increase power enough to run the fan?
Do I even need a SSR?

Thanks for the help,
Slippin

The SSR is not a step down transformer, it's merely a switch that requires minimal input to turn on/off, which completes a circuit and therefore activates whatever you're running. It's a relay (Solid State Relay=SSR). You want a step down transformer. Look on ebay or at radio shack?
post #15 of 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by dward51 View Post

Guess I'll hijack my own thread.....

here is my "hole in the water into which I pour money".  I have two of them (sort of like smokers, you start to collect them).  The Skeeter is the one needing $850 in tires right now.  It's stuck at the house until I get them.  Not worth rolling the dice to drive to the lake with that heavy beast on old tires and getting stuck in the middle of nowhere with little options to find tires.

2001 22' Skeeter ZX2200 Bay boat with 200HP Yamaha HPDI & 17.5' Lowe 170SP with 25hp Johnson (electric only and small lake boat).  The Skeeter is like a bass boat on steroids and laughs at fresh water wakes & waves.  The Lowe is not a small boat and is a 17x56 format.  It looks like a bath tub toy next to the big skeeter though.







I like that Skeet Dave! I sold my Baja with a 200 Mercury Blackmax last year...I got the aforementioned Chris Craft (1996 Concept 18) Rebuilt the small block ford 302, now have a nice little runner.
post #16 of 86

Thanks for the quick reply goingcamping,

 

Would something like this work: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHAOQO/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A28PCZ3GGXGBES

is the amperage there to supply a small electric motor like this one:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2ARV22/ref=gno_cart_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2K68GWSIW0XRZ

 

Thanks again for all the help. :)

post #17 of 86

Thanks for the quick response goingcamping,

 

If I got a voltage step down would the amperage be high enough to run a draft fan?

If not, what would I need to increase the amperage enough run the fan?

 

Thanks for all your help!

(Sorry for asking such trivial questions, this stuff is way above my understanding. lol) 

post #18 of 86
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve920 View Post
 

My apologies in advance for "hijacking" the thread or posting off topic, as I'm a screen printer looking for some assistance with the MYPIN TA4. I've picked apiece the internet and have wrecked my brain trying to figure this out. It seems that this forum might have the most insight on my particular problem. 

 

I'm using the MYPIN to replace a burnt out FUJI temperature controller (Pictured). The MYPIN would ideally control two heating elements in a conveyor dryer (Just as the FUJI controller did before it burnt out).  I believe I have the wiring hooked up correctly to the new MYPIN, but when I power the machine on, it the MYPIN doesn't seem to be working correctly. The actual temperature value will exceed the set value on the MYPIN and continue to climb without stopping at any point. 

 

I'm frustrated as I'm not sure if the error is on my end, or the controllers. This is the second MYPIN I have tried in this machine with the same exact problem. I appreciate ANY help or insight someone man have to offer here, and will go to the extent of offering some FREE shirts to anyone that may be able to help!

 

Again I apologize for posting in this forum as I'm not a BBQ-er, (only amateur) but it seems this community is very knowledgeable on the subject! Thanks in advance for any help, and if anymore info or pictures are required please let me know and I'll post them up ASAP!

 

Steve,

 

Sorry it has taken me so long to even see this post.  I guess I'm slacking in my old age.  Odd thing is I used to run a textile screen business on the side as well.  What model dryer are you repairing?   I have a no-name "franken-dryer" that was made by a Spec Screen Supply in Atlanta in the 80's that is on an unknown number of modifications. Running three 4,500 wattlow IR panels and 3 forced air recirculation blowers (made for water based ink curing).  You can watch the meter spin when this baby is at full output. I'm at least the 3rd owner.  I also currently have a Hopkins Pro-line 6 head 4 station manual press in mothballs as I have not printed in a while.  Ok, back to the questions.....

 

Ok, off to the schematics.....

 

I have bad news. I seriously doubt the MYPIN will work. 

 

DO NOT USE THE DRYER UNTIL YOU VERIFY WHAT I'M ABOUT TO SAY, AS IF I'M RIGHT THIS IS DANGEROUSLY MIS-WIRED!

 

Here is a a cropped photo of you FUJI PYZ-4 schematic.

 

 

Here is a rotated image of the dryer schematic.

 

 

See how they have terminals 8 & 4 connected.  That means you have full AC line voltage on terminal 4 which is one leg of the output.  Terminal 5 is the other leg, which they show going to the SSR's.   First red flag went up when I saw this.  Next look at the relay data from the schematic.  It shows the SSR's are model A2440's.  A quick google of that model number confirmed my fears.  That is a AC-AC SSR and not the typical DC-AC SSR that is controlled by smoker type PID's.  You have a SSR that is triggered by line voltage and not low voltage DC. 

 

Depending on what model of MYPIN and how it's configured, I doubt it's going to work.  99% of the ones I've seen are set for DC low voltage output to trigger a DC-AC SSR.  If you moved the wires like I think you did, you have put full line voltage onto a terminal that should not have line voltage on it.  You probably have already blown the MYPIN PID internally which is why the heaters are not being controlled. 


Sorry to be the bearer of bad new, but based on the schematic for your dryer, your SSR is a Crydom A2440 and that is a 40 amp AC triggered SSR (which matches the schematic on the old PID and the rest of the dryer schematic you posted).

post #19 of 86

Thanks for the idea, I am almost done with my fan controller set up.

All that's left is to build the fan mount.

 

Check it out!

http://youtu.be/P5sNXU42xjo

 

Thanks!

post #20 of 86
Just finished making the fan mount!
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