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Pellet Smoker Fridge Conversion - Page 3

post #41 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BBQONICE View Post

what thickness of stainless is that on the door and corners.


I think I ended up using 14GA.  16GA would have worked as well.

post #42 of 64
Thread Starter 

UPDATE:

Well, let's wrap this thread up.  I test ran "Reefer Madness" with a favorable outcome.  I did an initial burn a few days ago, I ran it up to 400 degrees to burn off any cutting oil and other nasty stuff.  I got a few whole chickens and a fresh, not frozen, rack and a half of baby backs from Sam's.  I did nothing special with them.  I injected the chickens with a store bought Teriyaki marinade and rubbed with Famous Dave's chicken rub.  I rubbed the BBs with Famous Dave's rib rub.

With the smoker loaded, it got up to temp quickly and held temperature relatively decent.  It wasn't rock solid, but good enough.  Anyways, here are a few pics:

 

 

 

THIN BLUE SMOKE

 

 

A close up of the color

 

 

Food loaded up

 

Chow's on!

 

The chicken was moist, a beautiful golden brown and tasty.  The ribs were excellent, beautiful smoke ring.  No 2-2-1 method, just left them on until they were done.  I did use the AMNPS for a little while with apple, but figured I'd let the pellet pooper do the work.  There was always some degree of TBS coming out.  With the insulated cooking chamber, the smoker used a small amount pellets, just a little over 3 small coffee cans, so maybe 4 or 5 pounds on a 5 hr smoke.  Not to shabby considering it was only about 40 degrees today.

 

Well, anyways, she's done and ready for a ton of Q.  Thanks for looking!

post #43 of 64
Looks good. Is your diffuser plate the width of your fridge? And how big is the gap at the end?

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post #44 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ballagh View Post

Looks good. Is your diffuser plate the width of your fridge? And how big is the gap at the end?

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Nope, not as wide.  Maybe 6 - 7 inches narrower.  The gap from the end is about 2 to 3 inches.  The aluminum plate you see will eventually be tipped at an angle.  That is more of a drippings shield.  There is another 10 x 10 piece of steel sheet under the diamond plate that is acting as the diffuser plate.  That stands off the burn pot by about 3 inches.  With the diamond plate in the flat position, it is a great spot for the AMNPS to sit.  It was somewhat isolated from the direct flame and worked quite well the short time it was in there.  I may have to build a gizmo for the AMNPS to sit on when it is tipped up or maybe I'll just leave it alone....we'll see.

post #45 of 64
Thread Starter 
Just a few more pics. I painted the exhaust high temp black to give it a finished look.

Pics:




Edited by ScooterMagoo - 4/27/13 at 6:24pm
post #46 of 64

That is one beautiful meat making machine. bravo.png

post #47 of 64
That is a great looking build Scooter. The grub looks good too! I am sure you will turn out tons of smoked goodness over it's lifetime. Great job!
post #48 of 64
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post #49 of 64
Thread Starter 

I did a few calculations on pellet consumption.  Over a 5 1/2 hour smoke on some Country Style Ribs, it used a measly 1.125 lbs/hr.  I have a source for pellets in Kewaunee, WI, just 10 miles to the south of me.  He sells Lumberjack pellets, 20 lbs for $12.99....maybe $12.00, can't remember.  Anyways, that puts the cost of operation at 73 cents an hour, plus whatever electricity it uses to operate.  CHEAP!!!  Mind..........blown!


Edited by ScooterMagoo - 5/22/13 at 6:42pm
post #50 of 64
Ordering my pellet pooper, heat shield, and magnum pig cold smoker from Dennis tomorrow :)

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post #51 of 64
Thread Starter 
Just thought I would post a long term update. So far, so good. I have been using it all summer, and so far no complaints. I have done quite a few overnight smokes, and it is problem free. I haven't had a jam with the feed yet. In the pictures you can see it's got a beautiful seasoning on the interior. I will be smoking three butts overnight tonight, and then throwing on six racks of baby backs tomorrow morning. We're having a bunch of people over for the extended weekend. Some new additions I added to it over the summer are a 4 inch chrome extension on the exhaust stack and a framework to support the wheels on the smoker. The smoker is fairly heavy and the sheet-metal had a hard time holding itself up.
Have a great memorial day.

post #52 of 64

A few questions about your paint: How is it holding up? Is it a single stage or a multi-stage? DId you use an overlay material for the gold logo and the pin striping? Just curious. I'm about to paint my conversion. Does your white have any pearl in it?

 

Thanks,

simul.

post #53 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by simulacrum View Post
 

A few questions about your paint: How is it holding up? Is it a single stage or a multi-stage? DId you use an overlay material for the gold logo and the pin striping? Just curious. I'm about to paint my conversion. Does your white have any pearl in it?

It's holding up great.  Being the fridge is so well insulated, heat is not an issue.  The outside of the smoker remains cool to the touch when in operation.  As far as specifics on the paint, it actually is considered a 3 stage paint job.  I used the Createx Auto Air paint system, which is a water based system, followed up with conventional clear coat.  The system consists of 1) sealer, 2) color coat, 3) pearl coat, and 4) clear.  First I pounded out some dents and filled with body filler.  My body work skills.......amateur at best, but it turned out OK.  After scuffing with scotchbrite pads, Createx sealer white was applied as a base.  That was followed up with the 2-tone color coat, which is Createx Auto Air 4300 Series Opaque colors.  Then, the pearl coat is applied.  That is a mixture of Auto Air's clear carrier base with a gold sparkle dry pearl, which I got from Paint with Pearl.com.  He sells it in little baggies and is an extremely good value.  That was sprayed over the entire fridge for the pearl effect.  Then, the final stage is the clear.  I used some clear from Napa Auto Parts.  I believe the brand is Acme.  The lettering and pin striping is all cut vinyl, even the gold leaf.  I am a sign maker on the side.  Also, I got all the Auto Air stuff from Coast Airbrush.com.

 

All in all, it turned out pretty nice.  I know where the mistakes are, but generally, I like it.  If you have experience with automotive painting, that is a plus.  The Auto Air paint, in my opinion is a departure from normal paint.  It is laid down in very thin layers, up to 4-5 layers for the color coat.  But, it can be force dried with a heat gun, so it goes quick.  I purchased a Concours HVLP gun from Eastwood with a 1.3mm tip, which is a tip size recommended by Auto Air.  I definitely recommend using Auto Air's newly released high performance reducer if you use the system.  Also, the sealer is hard to lay down without this gritty shit getting in the surface.  Strain it really good before spraying.

 

If you are interested in any custom cut gold leaf lettering, or any color for that matter, PM me.  My rates are reasonable.  Here are some examples, http://scottsmadness.smugmug.com/Portfolio/The-Signworks-Photo-Gallery/i-Dvg6cxV.

 

Hope this helps.

post #54 of 64
Thread Starter 

Here are 2 more items I painted using the same Auto Air system.

This is my 1990 ZX-6.  I had to replace the cam chain, so being it was stripped down that far, I figured I would strip it down to the frame and freshen up the paint on the frame, engine, wheels, calipers, disk carriers and swingarm.  This is the same method used on my fridge: Auto Air base, dry pearls and clear.  Frame is pearl black and calipers and disk carriers are pearl yellow.

 

STRIPPED:

 

ENGINE:

 

 

 

 

FINISHED:

 

 

 

My oldest son decided to "modify" his scooter.  The apple doesn't fall far from the tree, does it?  Big bore kit, clutch kit, after market pipe, body mods and custom paint............you know, the usual.  This thing sounds like a chainsaw on crack!  Anyway, Auto Air Pearl Blue and my mix of dry blue pearl over white.  Here it is partially assembled:

post #55 of 64

Let me think on a design and i'll message you, I like the engine turned aluminum surface,  so that could be neat. Just need to think of something interesting.

 

I think I will have the smoker sealed up pretty well and was contemplating painting it a light cream with a gold pearl; my concern was that the exposure to smoke would overly discolor the exterior and make it less attractive. Its just a smoker but it sits in plain view in my backyard.

 

I was also considering a stainless steel paint... I've seen interesting results but no idea how well it will hold up.

 

So far I've only got epoxy primer on the carcass.

 

 

post #56 of 64
Thread Starter 
If it is sealed up well, smoke discoloration shouldn't be a problem. If I do get a smoke leak in the seal, which does happen, it cleans up real easy. A squirt of 409 cleans it right up.
post #57 of 64

If its possible to have smoker envy I have it. What a beautiful rig you built there.

post #58 of 64
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cunnart View Post
 

If its possible to have smoker envy I have it. What a beautiful rig you built there.

Thank you, sir.

 

So far, so good.  It's working great.  I will be putting it through the paces this weekend.  I'll be doing just about 80 lbs. of Boston Butts this weekend.  2 loads, 6 butts each load, 12-14 hrs. per load.  The smell is going to drive the neighbors nuts!

post #59 of 64

Scooter,

Just curious. How much smoke time do you get before you have to reload that bin?

post #60 of 64
Thread Starter 

She burns pellets at a rate of about .75 to 1.25 lbs/hr.  It burns more in the dead of winter (below zero) because the burner unit is drawing in cold, outside air and the cook chamber temp falls just a tad quicker.  I'd have to guess the hopper will hold AT LEAST 15 lbs., if not more.  So to answer the question.....a good long time.  If I am doing an all night smoke, there is no fear of running out, that's for sure.

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