Temp Problems

shadowwalker · Jul 4, 2012

Guys and Gals I need some help I built a UDS a while back and I have had nothing but problems with the heat. It either wants to bottom out or hit 300+...for instance yesterday I cooked a butt and had to adjust the heat so many times it was unreal.

Here is my setup

my drum has a 2 inch bunge hole that I am using for the smoke to escape

I have 2 1/2 inch conduit and caps 2 inches from the bottom

I have 1 3/4 inch ball valve

the rack is 8 inches from the top

the charcoal holder was made from 9 inch expanded metal and an 18.5 inch webber kettle grill replacement standing about 3 inches off the bottom

the lid has the locking ring on it and I really don't see any signs of visible smoke escaping around it

Any help would be appreciated and I forgot the temp guage is a digital one with probe that came from Lowes

thanxxxxxxxxxx everyone

daveomak · Jul 4, 2012

shadowwalker, afternoon......I do not have an UDS but I have read many, many threads.... Kind of like staying at a Holiday Inn or something.... If using the minion method, I have read, as the temp rise when starting the smoker, close the valve to about 1/2 open or closed, which ever your prefer...... wait about 1/2 hour..... for temp to stabilize.... make very small adjustments waiting the 1/2 hour again... Waiting for the smoker to stabilize is the hardest part..... Once you get it stabilized, remember the valve position for the next smoke.... It should be very close.....

ECTO1 is an expert in UDS smokers along with others here.... read his old threads..... there is some good info in them.... Have a good 4th... Dave

shadowwalker · Jul 4, 2012

thanxxx for the reply I will look those up

ecto1 · Jul 4, 2012

Hey shadow walker we can defiantly help you out. First things first what kind of fuel are you using? Lump? Kingsford? second of all how are you starting your fire?

Go to 1:08 of this video and you will see how I start every fire I cook on in my UDS.

daveomak · Jul 4, 2012

Ecto, evening.... You are the man..... I love that video especially the "rolling out the ground chuck" segment..... Say hi to the bride... Dave

shadowwalker · Jul 5, 2012

I use kingsford and the minion method I appreciate the help!

shadowwalker · Jul 5, 2012

I also put 10 to 12 pieces of charcoal in a chimney to start with

ecto1 · Jul 5, 2012

What Digital thermo are you using and have you calibrated it yet?

shadowwalker · Jul 5, 2012

Its a Master Forge digital remote and I calibrated it in ice water it pegged at 32 degrees

byounghusband · Jul 7, 2012

After you put the lit coals on the charcoal basket, how long do you wait to close down the 1/2" intakes and turn down the ball valve?

About the time I see 200, close the intakes and start turning down the ball valve until it hits about 275. Add meat and adjust to 225-250.

shadowwalker · Jul 7, 2012

thats one of the problems I am having if I close off the 1/2 intakes and just use the ball valve it bottoms out to somewhere below 150 degrees...as soon as I open the 1/2 back up it climbs back up to 260 to 300 the darn thing has no happy medium so far LOL...I had a friend run another weld bead around the 1/2 intakes and the ball valve just in case it is leaking air into the drum...also this drum has a locking lid...what do you think about putting a rope gasket on the lip of the drum or should I put one on the inside of the locking ring itself? My question on that is because the locking ring is somewhat tight but you can still turn it by hand...

thanxxx everyone for your help I am positive I am going to figure out my problems with your help

ecto1 · Jul 7, 2012

I would get an oven thermometer and stick it in there the extreme temp swings are not common. My drums leak air but the amount is so small that it makes no difference.

shadowwalker · Jul 7, 2012

ECTO1 said:
I would get an oven thermometer and stick it in there the extreme temp swings are not common. My drums leak air but the amount is so small that it makes no difference.

thanxxx I will try that on my next smoke

shadowwalker · Jul 7, 2012

what do you think about the gasket?

daveomak · Jul 7, 2012

Shadowwalker, evening... are you partially opening the ball valve ??? Are there any holes in the drum that may need plugging ??? You can try high temp sealant around the threads... It sound like air is coming in from some place.... Do you have those weird lock rings on both side of the conduit nipples where they enter the UDS ?? Is the bottom of the UDS intact ???

When closing the ball valve and the other nipples are capped off, the charcoal should go out... no air, no fire... Somebody may have put a hex on your UDS..

.. I'm trying to add some humor when I know there is not place for humor... Sorry...

A gasket may well be the fix.... The woven rope gasket made for wood stoves would work.... Stick it to the inside of the groove on the lid with high temp sealant... If that don't work.... add a bushing reducer to the nipple and go with a 1/2" ball valve.... also check the 3/4" ball valve to make sure it doesn't leak.... Dave

thats one of the problems I am having if I close off the 1/2 intakes and just use the ball valve it bottoms out to somewhere below 150 degrees...as soon as I open the 1/2 back up it climbs back up to 260 to 300 the darn thing has no happy medium so far LOL..

PS... leave the 1/2" caps on and just use the ball valve to control the heat.... If you have tried that and the temp is low, below 150, you need a bigger opening in the top of the smoker for air to flow....

shadowwalker · Jul 7, 2012

thanxxxx for the reply and the humor is appeciated as well lol the nipples were welded in but I am going to get some high temp sealant just to make sure they are not leaking there...the bottom is intact hehe my first thought was that ...the opening in the top is the standard 2 inch bunge hole

thanxxx again guys I am getting some awesome advice :)

shadowwalker · Jul 7, 2012

the humor is much appreciated as well :)

I see no visible holes anywhere the coduit nipples were welded in and my friend ran another bead around them today just for insurance...I will get some high temp sealant tomorrow and put on all the screws and around the ball cock and the conduit nipples....YEP the bottom is in the drum LOL...the hole in the lid is the standard bunge hole size whatever that is

thanxxxx again :)

byounghusband · Jul 7, 2012

I agree with Dave on bigger openings! My FUDS has three 3/4" pipe nipples and one 3/4" elbow with 12" of 3/4" Black Pipe and then a 3/4" Ball Valve. (I am lazy and don't wanna lean down to adjust....) and I have 8 1/2" holes in the lid as well as a 2" Bung hole that I RARELY use. Check the lid on top of the smoker, not the extra one on the ground.....

There are times when I need to open one cap to normalize temps, but it doesn't stay that way all the time.

DaveOmak said:
PS... leave the 1/2" caps on and just use the ball valve to control the heat.... If you have tried that and the temp is low, below 150, you need a bigger opening in the top of the smoker for air to flow....

shadowwalker · Jul 7, 2012

thanxxxx byounghusband :) I appreciate taking time to hlep out

daveomak · Jul 7, 2012

Shadowwalker, I have this thought.... sometimes it hurts to think.... anyway, with improper air circulation in the UDS, when you close the inlets, the heat builds up in the top because of lack of air flow.... byoung said that.... It makes sense.... try his idea of several air holes placed around the lid.... all that heat needs a place to go..... If you have a step drill, that will work very well..... Or, place some wire under the lid so there is a 1/16" opening all the way around the lid and try that.... then try bigger wire or shims of cedar shingles..... This UDS has to work..... Dave

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