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Masterbuilt XL mods

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 

Well after neglecting my smoker over the last year I am ready to start mod'ing and make it a truly usable smoker.


Here is a list of what I plan/ planned on doing.


  1. fix chip pan. know issue that chip can catch fire
  2. bigger water pan
  3. fix door/ insulate door seam
  4. make a rolling stand.
  5. insulate
  6. add a chimney (possibly)  (if i can figure out where to get one to add)



The first two are already done, although I may upgrade the water pan from a foil pan to a 14" dog dish. Numbers 3 and 4 are planned for the next week or two.  When ever I can get time.  I will take pics as I work on the projects to post.


Does anyone have any tips on how to insulate the smoker as a whole?  I am at a loss for how to do it, but with the north winds we get here in Missouri during the winter it is a must.  Pics would help a lot.  Mental pics and I don't get along to well.


Anything else yall would like to add is much appriciated.



post #2 of 20
Hey I am in the process of doing the same thing to mine. I was about to just throw a cast iron pan on top of the wood chip pan, but I'm starting to think otherwise. Is there some sort of special dynamic that needs to be part of a wood chip box, or is it really as simple as putting some sort of cast iron object over the burner to keep the wood from flame? Or does it need to touch the flame a little, but just not burn? That's where I'm a little naive. Should it have a top? I initially thought just using chunks rather than chips would keep from burning, but others have indicated that isn't so.
What do you think?

post #3 of 20
Also what do you think about just a cast iron smoking box which can easily be found on amazon for $10? I think that's what I'm going to try.
post #4 of 20

I use a 9"sq baking pan I got for like $2. and it works great in my GOSM.

post #5 of 20
Thread Starter 

My upgrade was to take my wifes cast iron skillet, i owe her now, and place it on the burner.  Seems to work just fine.  I am going to try placeing foil over it to make the chucks last longer next time though.

post #6 of 20
Thread Starter 

Well I finally got the valve installed.  I ended up with a ball valve instead of a needle valve.  Don't know how it works yet I am trying to get a gasket around the door opening installed first.  That is where I need help.  I tried what Ace Hardware recommended and it failed.


Door Gasket and other equipment

The Fireplace gasket you can get at ACE by the foot.


Ball Valve for Propane Line

The only thing I had to buy besides the extra line was a ball valve and a 3/8" flare coupler.


Crappy Stuff

This stuff didn't work.  Any tips out there on what I can use to connect the gasket to the Smoker?

post #7 of 20

You may try high temp RTV? You would run a fat bead around the door and then press the rope into it and clamp it down. The surface will have to be clean and oil/grease free before you start. If there is paint, you may try and scuff it up to give the RTV something to hold onto.

post #8 of 20
Thread Starter 

So high temp RTV?  I can get that at Lowe's or home depot?  I will pick it up this weekend, with some steel wool to scuff the paint, and give it a try.  Thanks. 

Hope this works.  Smoke runs out the door like it is open.

post #9 of 20

I simply ran a nice even round 3/8" bead of 100% pure silicone (heat rated) around the door frame face and let it dry overnight. I did this prior to seasoning or starting the burner. I cleaned the door frame very well with alcohol to make sure that a good bond was made. I even used some of the alcohol on the frame too,,,, th_anim_burp.gif


I didn't use the rope because the seal was perfect with out it. The silicone is pliable and works great! No smoke leaks! I used the remainder of the silicone to stick some left over ceramic tile to the top of the smoker, it protects the top when setting things on it, plus it holds heat. You can use it as a warming surface.

post #10 of 20

Here's a pic,



If you look close, you can see the silicone bead,,,




post #11 of 20



I simply set an 8" cast iron fry pan with wood chunks directly on the stock chip pan. You will find that you may want to elevate the fry pan a bit more or even elevate the stock chip pan to lower the intensity of the heat delivered to the wood chunks in the fry pan. I also cover the fry pan with tin foil and use a toothpick to pop a 5 or 6 holes in the foil to let out a small amount of smoke. This lets the wood chunks smolder insteat of burn.

post #12 of 20

Just picked up My XL  decided to make the mods before firing it up.


about 10 years ago built  wrought iron pot rack for the kitchen. 2 year ago redesigned the kitchen down came the pot rack. into the garage and after four garage sales and no interest decided to re- purpose the rack. it was slightly narrower than I needed but with a few well placed mounting bolts attached to the legs of the XL. added 4 Harbor Freight cast iron with rubber wheels and it  raised the the smoker about 12 inches and provide a movable smoker .

post #13 of 20

Nice use of old stuff!

Looks Great

No Creosote! A-Maze-N Smokers

post #14 of 20

This is my smoker.  I added Durarock to the sides to retain heat.  The angle iron holds my oversized water pan that I picked up at a restaurant supply store.  I also added felt around the door but I don't think it is necessary.  I need to add a vent to add more oxygen to help the burning of Todd's pellets.  I also made a mobile base out of some scrap 3/4 plywood and wheels from Harbor Freight.  


Update:  I tried using the fish pump mod to get more air into the smoker.  It didn't work out for me.  I then cut a 2" hole in the side of the smoker and placed the pellet tray near it.  I am able to get the pellets to burn for about an hour and then they end up starting on fire completely.  I do have the maze on a piece of Durarock to keep the heat away but that isn't enough.  This is my fourth smoke with the pellets and I am out of ideas.  I have made sure the pellets are dry and have let them heat up for over 10 minutes.  No luck.  I think I am just going back to chunks.



Edited by Kjmad4 - 5/26/12 at 6:25pm
post #15 of 20

How did you attach the durarock to insides of the chamber?  And, since you posted this in May, are you able to keep it somewhat clean?  I just bought a MB Pro and looking at mods before I season it.  Thanks!

post #16 of 20

Hi Everyone - I'm new to the forum.   I've got a couple of smokers but just purchased the Masterbuilt Extra Wide.  I've made most of the modifications mentioned already.  My biggest problem is when smoking large quantities of meat.  I did 132 lbs of brisket and I had to have the hose ready to keep the grease fires down.  I went with the large water pan to help catch the grease and insulated the door, which helped a lot.  I just did 60 lbs of pork shoulder and still had problems with grease fires, even down at 180 deg internal temp.  I was thinking of replacing the water pan with a "slanted" tray (higher in front, lower in back) with a opening to run a stainless tube through the grease trap.  Any thoughts?

post #17 of 20
Rsmca1- Sorry, I haven't been here in awhile. I picked up 2" x 1/2" pieces of metal that were drilled on both ends and riveted one end into the smoker. The metal piece rotates and locks the dura rock in place. I picked them up at Home Depot in the hardware section.
post #18 of 20

I just bought a Masterbuilt G40 Smoker.


I noticed the Drip Pan was way too small.  I love your idea of using that Restaurant Serving Pan.  Great idea.  I was thinking on that same item.


I will be building a roll-around for the Smoker and the Tank.  I will be getting a much larger Propane Tank too.  I'm think along the line of a 40lb Tank because I don't know how long a 20lb Tank would last.  I will find out for sure when I see my Gas Supplier today.  Since both are going to be on the Roll-Around, it will be easy to roll around when you need to use it.


BTW, this Smoker is rated at 15,400 BTU.   I got this information directly from Masterbuilt today.  I also told em to include that information in the Manual.  It wasn't in the Manual.


I love the Masterbuilt line of Grills and Smokers.  They're all pretty much built like Tanks.  Though the skin on the Smoker I think is a little too thin.


Have fun with your Smoker.  I will with mine:)




PS: I'm sort of looking for a Natural Gas Mod coming from the house for the Smoker.  But, I think it might be more trouble than it's worth since after I'm done with it, I can roll it around anywhere I want to.  With a hose you're limited where you can put it.

post #19 of 20

I have a new masterbuilt smoker, the problem is I am a chef and I don't give a darn how LONG it takes to get up to a set temp, what I need is the heat to STOP when it gets to a pre set temp.  SO I FIXED IT !  I now have a masterbuilt smoker that will, 1 with the flip of a switch work like Masterbuilt made it, it will only get up to 275 F OR , with the flip of a switch I can now go up to 350! AND it will turn off the heat when it gets to my pre set temp so when I am doing a pork loin when the internal temp gets to 145 it turns the heat OFF !  Masterbuilt should have made it that way in the first place, what were they thinking ? !     It took a box full of parts and a day but it sure works great now !




questions...you may email me direct at  leewalt@powerbank.net


I am a ham radio operator so I have a  license to tinker   please do not confuse ham radio with cb radio they are NOT the same thing !


anyone know how to post photos here ?


best 73's  DE  WAØAUU

post #20 of 20

I try it also, it's great!

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