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post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

This seems like an impossible, but I am looking for a thermocouple type design that would protect me from exploding, if the gas goes out, or if the cooking area reaches a certain temp.  Any products out there?  I have seen some devices, but they all run $150-200+  that is more than my gas water heater, there has to be a solution.


post #2 of 15

Search for Pyromation or Automation Direct.  Type J thermocouples, they are the most common.  Should be less than 50 bucks.  I think you need to be a little more specific on what your trying to do with it.

post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 

I want it to work like an oven, or water heater.   Pilot light always on, when the cooker reaches a certain temp, the gas shuts off.  Temp drops, gas comes on. Pilot ingites the burners.


post #4 of 15
Thread Starter 

That info is half the battle, I still need to find a valve that will work, any ideas?


post #5 of 15

This a homemade unit or retrofit?

post #6 of 15
Thread Starter 

Home made, I'll call a plumber if there is a safety concern...


post #7 of 15

Probably the best thing to do.  You could probably use parts off a gas water heater to make it work, the pilot light flame out protection is very very very good thing to have..  Have you considered an electric version?  Little safer and easier to build.

post #8 of 15
Thread Starter 

wouldnt electric be really expensive to run for a 6-10 hour smoke?


post #9 of 15

Depends on the size of the heating element.  Say you have a 1200 Watt heater = 1.2KW.  You run it for 12 hours but the heater is only on 50% of the time, (insulated smoker).  Your actually using 1.2 KW for 6 hours, and assume your utility rate is ~$0.10 per kWh (check your bill).  The cost for a 12 hour smoke would be $0.72.  I have not compared it to propane but I think a 20lb will last about 30 hours and costs ~$18 bucks to refill.  Electric is easier on the wallet.

post #10 of 15
Thread Starter 

I like it, something to think about, where would I find elements like that?


post #11 of 15

You need to give more info what gas LP or natural ,BTU of burnerth_violent5.gif .Do you want standing pilot it wastes gas and is becoming obsolete ,hot surface ingniter is newer tech.How are you going to mount it can you fab. As far as a safety most gas vales have a flame sensor and many high temp limit in circuit going to coil or solenoid. Don't know were you are but best bet to get it on the cheap is used.Call heat and air contractor and get a used furnace make sure it has LP kit if that's what you need.

post #12 of 15

Search the net.  Heck a cheap stove top element will work,  just need some electronics to control it.  That will take you back to your original question about a thermocouple and controller.  If your serious about doing it I could do some digging and come up with the parts you need to buy and draw up a wiring diagram.  Your still looking at a couple hundred bucks.  You will also have to determine the size heater you need, If your smoker is the size of a MES 30 or 40 someone has done the figuring for you, just copy it.

post #13 of 15

Sorry guys but didn't he ask for anything but gas .A standing pilot went out 10 to 15 years ago old tech .Now it's hot surface ingniters .Most units furnace and boilers have a flame sensor  it looks like a nail and is in the flame path and it creates millavolts which the gas vale recognizes and stays open.As far as high heat limit just wire them all in series to one side of the gas vale coil.Cheapest way for you is to call a heat and air contractor and ask about used 115vac furnace you'll get squirrel cage fan for free .Two ton unit is problely as big as you need unless we are talking trailer size smoker. I figure you use LP so make sure  the unit you get is ready for LP you can steal the burners out of the unit .If you want to use your burner make sure to match BTU on gas valve  to burner. Call a plumber? What the hell do they know beside sh*t rolls down hill.The boss is a S.OB and pay day is on Friday.You want some one who works on gas vales daily not bimonthly most plumbers know pipe not controls.ALL GAS IS  VERY DANGEROUSth_violent5.gifI am a master boiler since 2000 in the Field 16 years . Can wire anything you want just tell me exactly what you want to do .IM me if you want any wireing digram drawn up.

post #14 of 15
Originally Posted by Matthew Brown View Post

wouldnt electric be really expensive to run for a 6-10 hour smoke?


I did some digging and came up with an inexpensive solution to convert to electric.  Some of these items could probably be found cheaper on Ebay.  The website is automation direct.  If you choose this method I could draw up a wiring diagram..




BOM NAME: Smoker electronics              
BOM NOTE:      
Item Code Quantity Price Short Description          
CHM1D-1                     3    $9.50 FUSE HOLDER, 1/PKG, M CLASS, 1 POLE, DIN MT, NON-IND, 30A
SL4824-RR                   1    $89.00 DUAL OUTPUT TEMP CONTROLLER, 1/32 DIN OUT1-RELAY, OUT2-RELAY
AD-SSR225-AC                1    $47.75 SOLID STATE RELAY, VAC INPUT, 25A, 1PST, N.O., 24-280 VAC, DIN MOUNT
Fuses class CC 1     5 Amperage depends on the size of the heater element  
Fuses class CC 2    5 1 Amp for controller and 1 Amp relay contact on controller  
Wire req ? #12 MTW or THHN for everything but the heater wiring  
Wire req ? #10 TGGT for heater (high temp) assuming heater is < 30 Amp  
Heater req ? A realistic size is probably around 1200 Watt.  This would be around 10 Amps at 120 VAC.








post #15 of 15

hijack.gifThis is propane smokers fourmhijack2.gif

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