Photos of the Oven Thermostat modI've added some photos of the Oven Thermostat mod.
Here is a copy of a post from the smokey mountain forum where I got the idea. I have added some comments in parentheses.
All of this came from a member there Ron Olson http://groups.yahoo.com/group/smokey...n/message/3360
GOSM Gas Oven Thermostat Heat Control Valve
Do a search for Gas Oven Thermostat Heat Control Valve New on ebay and it will come right up.
I'm no plumber either, I just acquainted myself with the Wall-O-Fittings at Home Depot until I came up with the right combination that worked. While you're there, don't forget to buy a control knob, they never seem to be included.
The inlet for the thermostat is the male pipe threaded port that hangs down beneath it. I used these same threads to mount the thermostat into a metal switch box (Home Depot again - hope you didn't drive home already!) which made it easy to mount the whole thing to the control panel of the GOSM. Just out of preference, I adapted the inlet to a more conventional 3/8" flare fitting, so that it would be compatible with my longer regulator hoses. If you want to use the stock GOSM regulator, the fitting must be 1/8" male pipe thread.
To get from the main outlet of the thermostat to the burner of the smoker, shape a supply line out of 3/8" soft copper tubing (or 1/4" if your thermostat happens to use that size - I think the last one I bought did). Depending on where you mount the thermostat, this line may need to be shaped and routed quite a bit. The copper tube installs directly into the largest port on the thermostat. Tighten the compression fitting until the tube is secure. On the other end, install a compression fitting of the appropriate size, and adapt this fitting as needed to fit the 1/8" male pipe thread of the burner assembly. Be sure to use 2-3 wraps of YELLOW teflon tape on all of your pipe thread fittings. Don't use tape on compression fittings.
(I just fitted a hose barb on the thermostat outlet and used high pressure air hose to make the connection between it and the burner control.)
The trickiest part is piping in a pilot burner, which you pretty much have to do unless you cap off the pilot port on the thermostat. I don't recommend disabling it, as the thermostat can potentially shut off the main burner completely from time to time, and the pilot is what reignites it when the temperature comes down. What I did was build one out of 3/16" by 12" hard brake line from the auto parts store. The brake line has flared ends and comes with its own fittings. Chop one end off and insert it into the small compression fitting in the thermostat and tighten it down. For the other end, purchase a brake line terminator from the same auto parts store - just a nut with a solid end to it - to cap off the line. Before mounting it though, drill a very small, maybe .030" hole in the center of the cap. Presto, there's your pilot burner. You will need to mount this so that the tip of it sits just beneath the main burner in the smoker, close enough that the big burner will ignite it, but not so close that the WOOF of the main burner choking off will blow it out.
The other trick part is fishing the long capillary for the thermo-bulb thingy into the smoker without damaging it, and then mounting it up above the highest cooking rack with the bulb exposed to the hot air of the smoker.
If any of this sounds intimidating, just tell the friendly people at Home Depot what you want to do. If their eyes don't glaze over, then they'll be glad to help with finding the right parts.
(Here are some part numbers. I used the Harpco part, but any like these will work. When I did this mod last year I had already bought the thermostat. I think I paid around $25.00 for it then.)
Harper Wyman Part # 5390G0003J
Harper Wyman Part # 5813H0085D
Harpco # 6060H0017 NATURAL OR LP GAS OVEN HEAT CONTROL VALVE[/quote]