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Propane Smoker Modifications - Page 5

post #81 of 98

Photos of the Oven Thermostat mod

I've added some photos of the Oven Thermostat mod.

Here is a copy of a post from the smokey mountain forum where I got the idea. I have added some comments in parentheses.

All of this came from a member there Ron Olson


GOSM Gas Oven Thermostat Heat Control Valve

Do a search for Gas Oven Thermostat Heat Control Valve New on ebay and it will come right up.

I'm no plumber either, I just acquainted myself with the Wall-O-Fittings at Home Depot until I came up with the right combination that worked. While you're there, don't forget to buy a control knob, they never seem to be included.

The inlet for the thermostat is the male pipe threaded port that hangs down beneath it. I used these same threads to mount the thermostat into a metal switch box (Home Depot again - hope you didn't drive home already!) which made it easy to mount the whole thing to the control panel of the GOSM. Just out of preference, I adapted the inlet to a more conventional 3/8" flare fitting, so that it would be compatible with my longer regulator hoses. If you want to use the stock GOSM regulator, the fitting must be 1/8" male pipe thread.

To get from the main outlet of the thermostat to the burner of the smoker, shape a supply line out of 3/8" soft copper tubing (or 1/4" if your thermostat happens to use that size - I think the last one I bought did). Depending on where you mount the thermostat, this line may need to be shaped and routed quite a bit. The copper tube installs directly into the largest port on the thermostat. Tighten the compression fitting until the tube is secure. On the other end, install a compression fitting of the appropriate size, and adapt this fitting as needed to fit the 1/8" male pipe thread of the burner assembly. Be sure to use 2-3 wraps of YELLOW teflon tape on all of your pipe thread fittings. Don't use tape on compression fittings.

(I just fitted a hose barb on the thermostat outlet and used high pressure air hose to make the connection between it and the burner control.)

The trickiest part is piping in a pilot burner, which you pretty much have to do unless you cap off the pilot port on the thermostat. I don't recommend disabling it, as the thermostat can potentially shut off the main burner completely from time to time, and the pilot is what reignites it when the temperature comes down. What I did was build one out of 3/16" by 12" hard brake line from the auto parts store. The brake line has flared ends and comes with its own fittings. Chop one end off and insert it into the small compression fitting in the thermostat and tighten it down. For the other end, purchase a brake line terminator from the same auto parts store - just a nut with a solid end to it - to cap off the line. Before mounting it though, drill a very small, maybe .030" hole in the center of the cap. Presto, there's your pilot burner. You will need to mount this so that the tip of it sits just beneath the main burner in the smoker, close enough that the big burner will ignite it, but not so close that the WOOF of the main burner choking off will blow it out.

The other trick part is fishing the long capillary for the thermo-bulb thingy into the smoker without damaging it, and then mounting it up above the highest cooking rack with the bulb exposed to the hot air of the smoker.

If any of this sounds intimidating, just tell the friendly people at Home Depot what you want to do. If their eyes don't glaze over, then they'll be glad to help with finding the right parts.

(Here are some part numbers. I used the Harpco part, but any like these will work. When I did this mod last year I had already bought the thermostat. I think I paid around $25.00 for it then.)

Harper Wyman Part # 5390G0003J

Harper Wyman Part # 5813H0085D

post #82 of 98
Awesome post, I would love to do my GOSM
post #83 of 98
hailfixer how wide is your door
that look great
i think i have the midle size
post #84 of 98
Great post and documentation. Points to you.
post #85 of 98

Oven Control

Great looking job on doing the mod. Maybe I missed it, but where did you mount the heat sensor in the cabinet.?

Thought this might be a nice project for me, but then I got to thinkin......Has anyone considered using a gas oven for a smoker instead of converting a smoker to a gas oven ?

Just think about it....uses natural gas or converts to propane fairly easily, already has automatic temp. control, usually has a window for viewing, has a light inside and a broiler for crispin up that chicken skin....!

All you would have to do is stick on a Smoke Daddy and build it in to a nice lookin structure with a smoke house look......!

Q Dawg
post #86 of 98
I forgot to get a photo of that. I'll try and get one up later. I fed it up the inside behind the rack holders to the top of the smoker.
post #87 of 98

Been searching everywhere for these parts, where did you get yours?
post #88 of 98
I got it on ebay, but that was a few years ago. Without the pilot light line you risk having a flame out with the gas still flowing.......... kaboom!

It may never happen but I wouldn't do this mod without it.

There must be many valves out there that would work, I just don't know where to look. You can see from the pics there are three connection points on the valve I used, Inlet, Outlet, & Pilot.

Good luck in your search. If I can answer any questions I'll be glad to help.

post #89 of 98
I will keep searching
post #90 of 98

MOD could you sticky this please.

post #91 of 98

3/5/11 I did this mod on my SMVS. Took about 3 1/2 hrs. Sadly, The thermostat was defective. Got one on fleabay for 29.95 A harpco 6000S0001. It won't turn off set on any temp.... My unit had only the top vent, so I also added 2 additional vents on the sides. It now stays in the 215 to 225 range set on low. The origional problem was high heat. I still like the idea of set n forget for temp using a thermostat. Hoping the seller has a replacement, as these thermos are difficult to locate.(old type w/o safety). You can use 3/16" copper tubing for the pilot. Pinch the end closed and drill a small hole for the pilot light. Adjusting the pilot below the burner was not a problem. Have a 3/4" flame when off and expands higher when gas on in thermostat. No flame out problems (don't know about windy days though, I'm sure a wind break would be a benifit). You can still control the flame size with the origional valve on the unit.  Be sure to turn off the propane tank when done as the pilot will not go out until you do...


Edited by asenary - 4/2/11 at 7:28am
post #92 of 98

Here are my mods to my 3405BGW GOSM.  I built cart with exterior of 2x3's and 1/2 plywood, painted with outdoor deck stain.  Sheet metal edging covers fiberglass insulation.  Insulation makes HUGE difference in enabling smoker to get up to operating temperature in winter and minimizing wind and sun induced temperature fluctuations.  Casters and heavy duty handles make it portable.  Shelf folds down to minimize space (store it in garage with limited space).  Concrete heat sink added to control temperature and bring smoker back up to operating temperature quickly after opening doors.  Old coleman grill works as grease pan.  ET732 thermometer feeds into holes drilled in side.  Insulation and needle valve enables operating smoker as low as 140 degrees without flameout and 400+ and makes it fairly easy to get it set/keep at the desired temp .  Need to be careful with needle valve as setting it too low, risk of flameout - I don't smoke at low temps on windy days.


Of course, having to do it over again, a lot of changes would be made.  I have yet to install gasket for door.  I am thinking of making another heat sink to completely replace the water pan - I have smoked with and with/out the water pan and I can't tell the difference.  This would give me back use of the fourth shelf.  I am also looking to modify the smoke box so it sits much closer to the burner on very low heat - currently I place it directly on the burner.


Finally, I have to paint and add a handle to a box I just built that fits over the propane top that has a 200 watt ceramic heater to keep the regulator warm enough in the winter to keep ice build up from bloking the gas flow (I swear Rhino fills their tanks with 50% water :-) It has a sliding top to open and close it to adjust the temp as needed - ideally a thermostat would work better but it does the job.  Beats pouring hot water on the regulator...





post #93 of 98

I like your plywood edging. Great idea. You can get a propane scale and hang it off your hook and always know how much propane you have too.Looks-Great.gif

post #94 of 98

nice job!

post #95 of 98

This is my mod on the smoker. Smoker.JPG


Thermostat on lower left, chimney w/butterfly top, vents on I

lower sides (l & R), and new temp on door.

post #96 of 98

By far, the best modification I added to my propane smoker was an external fuel gauge that I can monitor both locally and via my smart phone using the General Electric (GE) Wink App.

ReFuel External Fuel Guage.


post #97 of 98

Here's my Propane smoker ready for a Northern Minnesota Smoke early December rib smoke.  I have struggled since I started using this smoker about 2 years ago with winter's cold and wind.  I cut out squares of insulation where the chimney sticks out of the top of the smoker and made sure the fiberglass bats extended down nearly to the ground.  I have used metal tape and previously closed the butterfly vents on each side.  Ample air intake from the front exposure.  I actually had to throttle back the flow valve to bring down the temperature.  I consider this seasonal mod a success!  A Facebook page suggested a welders blanket instead of the insulation bats.  Anyone here use a welders blanket?  cost?  pictures?  

post #98 of 98
So i have a charcoal / wood smoker but after my first few hrs i dont need the wood... so wjat i want to donis add a burner ti assit my charcoal on long burners... i want to be able to have a propane burner that will kick on and off as needed to keep the temp within the range i set. Any suggestions????
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