Hey Tom, I will send you what I have on the needle valve. I have used it alot, as has my neighbor. There are those who have safety concerns, but I personally, have had no problems with it. Dang, I just saw that I have already sent you this, did I miss something, or is this just a different thread? Oh well. Subject: Fw: needle vavle #2
Originally Posted by Squeezy [IMG]file://C:\forums\images\buttons\viewpost.gif[/IMG] I had it down to that item ... thanks for confirming. Now, I don't know much about gas fittings and such so, could you show me a pic of where it is connected or expalin to me where it connects or what it replaces?
Sure would appreciate it. Can't wait to see how much shipping cost I will get slapped with! [IMG]file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Stationery\images\smilies\icon_cry.gif[/IMG] Paul
Hey Paul, unscrew the regulater from the hose where it connects to the propane tank. Mine was real tough to get broke loose, then install the new valve in between the hose and regulator. You will need to get bushings for both ends of the new valve, its too big to fit the old threads, I think you need to go from 1/4 to 1/8 in size. cascadedad Is the orginal person to come up with this fix.
GOSM Low Heat Fix (w/pics)
OK, as I promised.
I have only been able to get my GOSM down to about 250* to 260* during the heat of the day (temps between 90* and 100*). So, as recommended in another thread, I purchased one of these.
When I went to install it, the threads were not the right size. [IMG]file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Stationery\images\smilies\mad.gif[/IMG] I have been busy with work and coaching football so was unable to make it to the hardware store until this evening. The store closed at 8:00 and I squeaked in at 7:55 to get the two remaining pieces. The first photo is what it looked like after the valve was installed.
The next picture is the flame with the needle valve open which is the same flame as I had prior to installing the new valve. The last picture is the flame with the needle valve adjusted down. It works excellent and I think I could take my temperature WAY down low. Probably lower than 200 now without any problem.
So, I would highly recommend this mod to everyone. From what I have read, MOST of the small GOSMs will barely make it down to 225 when it is hot ouside and a lot have trouble getting down to 250.
Thanks for everyone that helped on this.
Oh, before you order one of these valves, you may want to check your hardware store. The store I went to had a couple different needle valves right where all the fittings were. I didn't even look to see if they would work as it was last call for checkout.
This should help you guys more, I'm not kidding you, This valve makes ALL the difference. [IMG]file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Stationery\images\smilies\smile.gif[/IMG]
Hey Skip, a fella(Cascadedad) gave the address for a web site that sells a small brass valve like is used on weed burners. He said to turn the main valve on low, and put the new brass valve behind the main valve and then fine tune with the brass valve. I ordered 4 of them. I think I can put the web site up here?BayouClassic Depot http://www.bayouclassicdepot.com/ email@example.com Yes!! The valve is like, $4, OK, click on, propane parts, click on, miscellaneous propane burner parts, "view parts", there it is. [IMG]file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Stationery\images\smilies\PDT_Armataz_01_34 .gif[/IMG] Terry
I have a BBQ Grillware it has the cast Iron woodbox and didn't have a seal around the door. For the firebox I did the coffee can thing and the wife found a fireproof insulation seal at a fireplace store. No she's not that nice she just knew that if I went in there we may have had to sign up for welfare when I came out. Anyway here are the pics of the mods.
When I grabbed hold of my new Smoke Vault 24, I knew right away that a bad back and one bad arm wouldn't let me take that thing out of the garage! Went to Lowes and picked up four 2" swivel casters w/locks and two pieces of 1 1/2"x2" pre drilled angle metal. Cut to go in between the legs on each side and bolted on with #20X1/2" bolts with lock washers. Now I can just wheel it to the door and onto the concrete slab outside. I'll have to take pics when I have more light, but I'll post later if anyone is interested. Keith
I also changed out my chip box and use a 10" cast iron skillet. I cut my wood into 1" squares and it works great for me. Now I am able to get my smoker down to 130 for smoking jerky and sausage. I also have stopped using the water pan. I really don't see any change in the final results of my pork butts, ribs, turkey and chicken so far without the water pan...
Started with a Cabela's electric that had very little if any heat control. After removing the electric element, I installed a 3/16" steel plate on the bottom in lieu of the thin tin bottom. I picked up a standard gas stove burner for $20 and used some steel angle as legs for my wood pan.
On top of the steel angle, I set another 3/16" steel plate as my wood/smoking surface.
I found this propane tank monitor valve at HD. It really give a real feel for how much gas is in the tank.
I've also took the smoker box that came with the unit (Way to small) and turned it upside down over the handle on the side as a shelf for the meat thermo meter to sit on while I'm smokin. I use a 10'' cast iron skillet asmy smoke box.
JTR does the smoke box you have made a shelf out of get hot? That is a good idea, biengs it was tooooo small for the perpose it was made for... I use an 8x8 alum pan, it seems to get smoke quicker. I had a skillet before I switched to the pan...
The pan gets warm, but not to hot to hold the Thermo unit. The shelf won't hold anything with any weight to it unless you run a screw through it. I just pop it off the handle then I'm done with it. I'm thinking about putting the screw in to keep it in place. I know It will show up MIA being it's so small.