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New Element...not heating any at all now?!? - Page 3

post #41 of 58

I'm positive they automatically reset....   because they do not say "one time use" like other temp. limits...  like a fusible link....  

I have had my MES overheat, when the chips caught fire, and no reset was necessary...

 

EDIT:...  It is called a "switch"...  switches open and close.. 

post #42 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveOmak View Post

I'm positive they automatically reset....   because they do not say "one time use" like other temp. limits...  like a fusible link....  
I have had my MES overheat, when the chips caught fire, and no reset was necessary...

EDIT:...  It is called a "switch"...  switches open and close.. 
Thanks Dave. I suspected it reset itself after cooling since there's no access panel in the back of the Gen 1 40". Lots of hair dryers, small 800 watt vacuum cleaners and space heaters etc. Reset themselves.
-Kurt
post #43 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotoriousGT350 View Post
 

Found the problem. The spade connector to the thermostat is broken off. You can see the other end of the wire on the ground is the spliced end of the big tape element side. So where could I get a new thermostat? Direct from Masterbuilt or other source? I will have to get some hi temp spade connectors too.

By the way, Fry's electronics was the only place I could find steel high temp connectors.  Online I could not find a variety pack and I had to order large quantities for like 100-1000 of them :(
I discovered Fry's had them at the store.

Also I edited my posts in this thread to correct the hot vs neutral assumptions I was making based on my rewire.  I went back and checked and yep I had my wires crossed hahaha.  All fixed now and I updated the pics in the past threads to show the correct hot vs neutral for my Gen1 rewire :)

post #44 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by TallBM View Post

By the way, Fry's electronics was the only place I could find steel high temp connectors.  Online I could not find a variety pack and I had to order large quantities for like 100-1000 of them :(

I discovered Fry's had them at the store.


Also I edited my posts in this thread to correct the hot vs neutral assumptions I was making based on my rewire.  I went back and checked and yep I had my wires crossed hahaha.  All fixed now and I updated the pics in the past threads to show the correct hot vs neutral for my Gen1 rewire :)
Supco T1113 (14-16 gauge) T1114 (14-12 gauge).. Amazon $10. The pic shows a fold over tab but they are round barrels the wire slides into. Either way they come they should be soldered to the wire.
-Kurt
post #45 of 58
Thread Starter 

Busy weekend working. So, should I try to salvage my current disc or get a new one? Now if I understand correctly, if I get the  B13701-54 L350F Flame Rollout Switch with temp limit of 350*, it will cut the power to the heating element at that temp? So then I have the potential of over cooking the meats and what not even if I slow cook for example at 225*. Will the control panel regulate the heat element temp anyways if I have it set at the desired temp?

 

Kurt, I'm going to purchase those high temp connectors off amazon. Great quality and safety insurance!

post #46 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotoriousGT350 View Post
 

Busy weekend working. So, should I try to salvage my current disc or get a new one? Now if I understand correctly, if I get the  B13701-54 L350F Flame Rollout Switch with temp limit of 350*, it will cut the power to the heating element at that temp? So then I have the potential of over cooking the meats and what not even if I slow cook for example at 225*. Will the control panel regulate the heat element temp anyways if I have it set at the desired temp?

 

Kurt, I'm going to purchase those high temp connectors off amazon. Great quality and safety insurance!

 

 

Q: So, should I try to salvage my current disc or get a new one?

A: No, I don't think you can salvage your current rollout switch.  From the image it seems the tab has corroded or melted off.  Best to go with a new rollout switch.

 

Here is an image I pulled from online for visual context.  The image refers to the Rollout Switch as an "Overtemp Cutoff/Snap-Disk", and the smoker temp probe as a "Controller Sensor":

 

 

As you can see in the image above the Rollout switch (left) is separate from the smoker temp probe (right).  The smoker temp probe works with your electronic controller unit (digital display and buttons on top of smoker) to keep the smoker temperature at the set temperature you enter in.

 

The rollout limit switch is independent of the controller and smoker temp probe.  The rollout switch will cut power to the heating element to prevent the smoker from getting too hot in an unsafe situation.  This is a safety mechanism should the electronics and/or wiring fail in your smoker causing a situation where the heating element is constantly getting electricity and the controller cannot stop it.

 

For example:  The electronic board at the bottom of your smoker has an electronic switch that the controller unit uses to switch electricity on/off to the heating element to manage your set temperature.  If that switch shorts out in the ON position then electricity will continuously run to the heating element no matter what the controller is telling the switch to do.  You then end up with a smoker that may burn down.

The rollout switch will save you in this situation.  Should the smoker temp hit the rollout switch limit (302F for the original, 350F for the one mentioned above) then the rollout switch will trip and cut power to the heating element thereby preventing a potential overheating and fire issue.

 

After that explanation I can better answer the rest of your questions:

 

Q: if I get the  B13701-54 L350F Flame Rollout Switch with temp limit of 350*, it will cut the power to the heating element at that temp?

A:  Yes, which should ONLY happen in bad circumstances.  You would only hit the rollout switch limit in unusual or unsafe circumstances and the rollout switch would cut the power to the heating element.

 

Statement: So then I have the potential of over cooking the meats and what not even if I slow cook for example at 225*.

A: No, the rollout switch is not used to control the smoker set temperature, that is a separate smoker probe that the controller uses.  Again the rollout switch is independent and only trips if the roll out switch limit is hit causing it to then cut power to the heating element.  The rollout switch is not involved with temp management for controlling your cooking :)

 

Q: Will the control panel regulate the heat element temp anyways if I have it set at the desired temp?

A: Yes.  Temp control is managed with a separate smoker probe that is not tied to the rollout switch.

 

 

The high temp connectors are a really good idea as the other little thin ones used by Masterbuilt seem to wear out quickly.

 

IMPORTANT:  Also make sure the connectors are NOT loose at all.  You don't want any looseness or noticable wiggle in the connector.  This will likely result in resistance and resistance will turn into heat which will then turn into melting or burning up anything at the connection and possibly starting a fire.  I have already melted one rollout switch in the past because i thought the connector was secure enough but was wrong.  It melted the plastic on rollout switch where the tab connects and then kept causing the switch to overheat and cut power.

 

With that lesson learned I started putting the spades on the rollout switch tabs first and then fastening the wires to the spade.  Those rollout switch tabs bend easily and make it difficult for the very very tight steel high temp spades to be placed on the tabs. 

 

My solution?

I put a spade on each tab of the rollout switch.  Stood the rollout up on one of the spades on a piece of 2 x 4 wood and started tapping the opposing spade (on the other tab) with a hammer.  This forced both spades to start pressing onto the tabs without bending either tab.  I would then flip the rollout switch to the other spade and continue tapping to push down the spade onto other tab.  Flip and repeat until the spades are all the way on.  You will get spades that are forced all the way on, are as snug as can be, and avoid bending tabs and damaging the rollout :)

 

I hope this info helps you out some :)

post #47 of 58
Thread Starter 

That's a lot of help! Just ordered the high temp connectors and a package of 5 of the KSD 301 Switch exactly like the MES one for over $7. One review had a guy replace his on an MES with the new one and working perfect, plus I'll have 4 spares too. 

post #48 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotoriousGT350 View Post
 

That's a lot of help! Just ordered the high temp connectors and a package of 5 of the KSD 301 Switch exactly like the MES one for over $7. One review had a guy replace his on an MES with the new one and working perfect, plus I'll have 4 spares too. 


You'll be in business soon!

It's good you have a pack of 5 of the rollouts.  They are easy to damage at the tab sites and you don't want to install one with a wiggling/loose tab or connector.  It will just melt down on you and trip constantly causing you to replace it anyhow... a little birdy told me :P

 

Just follow the info I gave on how to best add those tight high temp spades to the rollout tabs and you will be fine.  You have a few you can practice with :)

 

Just make sure all wires are fastened well, all spades are tight with no wiggle, and I think you will be smoking again in no time!

post #49 of 58
Thread Starter 

^^^Parts came in early today! Just compare the old to new.

 

^^^It's ALIVE!!!!!!!(view from top)

 

^^^Got to 202 in 10 minutes from 78*. 

 

 

 

   So I place the high temp connectors on the new switch and tighten all the spade connectors throughout the MES electronics. Also since I had drilled out the rivets with a #8 drill bit, I bought some #10 x 1/2" tapping screws and sealed up the unit. Spent about $35 all together to finally get it up and running, Now I have many spare high temp connectors, 4 extra snap disc switches, extra heating element and extra control panel.

 

   Thank you all for the advice and guidance on getting this MES going! Couldn't have done it without the pics and suggestions!

 

-J.R.

post #50 of 58

You haven't put meat in that smoker yet? What are you waiting for???

post #51 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotoriousGT350 View Post
 

   So I place the high temp connectors on the new switch and tighten all the spade connectors throughout the MES electronics. Also since I had drilled out the rivets with a #8 drill bit, I bought some #10 x 1/2" tapping screws and sealed up the unit. Spent about $35 all together to finally get it up and running, Now I have many spare high temp connectors, 4 extra snap disc switches, extra heating element and extra control panel.

 

   Thank you all for the advice and guidance on getting this MES going! Couldn't have done it without the pics and suggestions!

 

-J.R.

 

J.R. It's good to see you are back up and running!  You have basically learned everything you need to know about your MES. Physically the MES is built well.  It just seems to be lacking a little in the electronics and wiring department. 

 

Should anything go wrong with your MES (other than burning down) I'm pretty sure you can resolve the issue.  Congrats!!!

post #52 of 58
Thread Starter 

old sarge, wife already has me getting ready to do some ribs tomorrow for dinner. I had to at least put some soak mesquite chips in and get it smoking again. I told the wife I was wearing Mesquite by Men:banana_smiley:

 

TallBM, you are absolutely right! Once I got into looking at all the wire and troubleshooting, it was more clear about how and where everything goes and works.

post #53 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotoriousGT350 View Post
 

 

 

TallBM, you are absolutely right! Once I got into looking at all the wire and troubleshooting, it was more clear about how and where everything goes and works.

 

Yep, no more mystery aye, lol.

post #54 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotoriousGT350 View Post



^^^Parts came in early today! Just compare the old to new.



^^^It's ALIVE!!!!!!!(view from top)



^^^Got to 202 in 10 minutes from 78*. 



   So I place the high temp connectors on the new switch and tighten all the spade connectors throughout the MES electronics. Also since I had drilled out the rivets with a #8 drill bit, I bought some #10 x 1/2" tapping screws and sealed up the unit. Spent about $35 all together to finally get it up and running, Now I have many spare high temp connectors, 4 extra snap disc switches, extra heating element and extra control panel.

   Thank you all for the advice and guidance on getting this MES going! Couldn't have done it without the pics and suggestions!

-J.R.

Great info! I was curious if you have links to the products you purchased as I'm having a little difficulty finding them on Amazon. Thanks!
post #55 of 58
Thread Starter 
post #56 of 58

Thank you. Looks like they are currently out of the over temp switch and the picture of the spade connector appears to be wrong. It should be a barrel according to the Google search I did for Supco T1113.

Did you solder yours on?
post #57 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephan28 View Post

Thank you. Looks like they are currently out of the over temp switch and the picture of the spade connector appears to be wrong. It should be a barrel according to the Google search I did for Supco T1113.

Did you solder yours on?
The pic is wrong. When I ordered the Supco T1113 on Amazon they showed the tab but when they arrived they were the barrels I sodered on.
-Kury
post #58 of 58
Thank you
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