Originally Posted by NotoriousGT350
Busy weekend working. So, should I try to salvage my current disc or get a new one? Now if I understand correctly, if I get the B13701-54 L350F Flame Rollout Switch with temp limit of 350*, it will cut the power to the heating element at that temp? So then I have the potential of over cooking the meats and what not even if I slow cook for example at 225*. Will the control panel regulate the heat element temp anyways if I have it set at the desired temp?
Kurt, I'm going to purchase those high temp connectors off amazon. Great quality and safety insurance!
Q: So, should I try to salvage my current disc or get a new one?
A: No, I don't think you can salvage your current rollout switch. From the image it seems the tab has corroded or melted off. Best to go with a new rollout switch.
Here is an image I pulled from online for visual context. The image refers to the Rollout Switch as an "Overtemp Cutoff/Snap-Disk", and the smoker temp probe as a "Controller Sensor":
As you can see in the image above the Rollout switch (left) is separate from the smoker temp probe (right). The smoker temp probe works with your electronic controller unit (digital display and buttons on top of smoker) to keep the smoker temperature at the set temperature you enter in.
The rollout limit switch is independent of the controller and smoker temp probe. The rollout switch will cut power to the heating element to prevent the smoker from getting too hot in an unsafe situation. This is a safety mechanism should the electronics and/or wiring fail in your smoker causing a situation where the heating element is constantly getting electricity and the controller cannot stop it.
For example: The electronic board at the bottom of your smoker has an electronic switch that the controller unit uses to switch electricity on/off to the heating element to manage your set temperature. If that switch shorts out in the ON position then electricity will continuously run to the heating element no matter what the controller is telling the switch to do. You then end up with a smoker that may burn down.
The rollout switch will save you in this situation. Should the smoker temp hit the rollout switch limit (302F for the original, 350F for the one mentioned above) then the rollout switch will trip and cut power to the heating element thereby preventing a potential overheating and fire issue.
After that explanation I can better answer the rest of your questions:
Q: if I get the B13701-54 L350F Flame Rollout Switch with temp limit of 350*, it will cut the power to the heating element at that temp?
A: Yes, which should ONLY happen in bad circumstances. You would only hit the rollout switch limit in unusual or unsafe circumstances and the rollout switch would cut the power to the heating element.
Statement: So then I have the potential of over cooking the meats and what not even if I slow cook for example at 225*.
A: No, the rollout switch is not used to control the smoker set temperature, that is a separate smoker probe that the controller uses. Again the rollout switch is independent and only trips if the roll out switch limit is hit causing it to then cut power to the heating element. The rollout switch is not involved with temp management for controlling your cooking :)
Q: Will the control panel regulate the heat element temp anyways if I have it set at the desired temp?
A: Yes. Temp control is managed with a separate smoker probe that is not tied to the rollout switch.
The high temp connectors are a really good idea as the other little thin ones used by Masterbuilt seem to wear out quickly.
IMPORTANT: Also make sure the connectors are NOT loose at all. You don't want any looseness or noticable wiggle in the connector. This will likely result in resistance and resistance will turn into heat which will then turn into melting or burning up anything at the connection and possibly starting a fire. I have already melted one rollout switch in the past because i thought the connector was secure enough but was wrong. It melted the plastic on rollout switch where the tab connects and then kept causing the switch to overheat and cut power.
With that lesson learned I started putting the spades on the rollout switch tabs first and then fastening the wires to the spade. Those rollout switch tabs bend easily and make it difficult for the very very tight steel high temp spades to be placed on the tabs.
I put a spade on each tab of the rollout switch. Stood the rollout up on one of the spades on a piece of 2 x 4 wood and started tapping the opposing spade (on the other tab) with a hammer. This forced both spades to start pressing onto the tabs without bending either tab. I would then flip the rollout switch to the other spade and continue tapping to push down the spade onto other tab. Flip and repeat until the spades are all the way on. You will get spades that are forced all the way on, are as snug as can be, and avoid bending tabs and damaging the rollout :)
I hope this info helps you out some :)