MES30 with AMNPS and Mailbox Mod

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mattyoungus

Newbie
Original poster
Jun 10, 2016
9
10
I'm super excited about this!! I had been having lots of trouble with my MSE30 this summer. It worked great in the sprint when I purchased it. Lately, my basic problem has been that when the temperature outside was above 80° F, the smoking chamber would heat up so fast that even if I added the wood chips as it was heating up, they would not ignite because the heating element wouldn't stay on long enough. Needless to say it was very frustrating. The last couple of times I used it, I had to ignite the chips with a torch, and then keep a fan blowing towards the loader to keep them smoking. It was a headache, and not what I signed up for when I bought the MSE30 - set it and forget it, supposedly.

Finally, through some suggestions on this forum, I decided to try the AMNPS 5 x 8, but when I got it, it didn't seem to fit well anywhere in the newer model. The only place it was going to work was the lower left and even then it was a tight fit. So, I did some more reading and came upon the mailbox mod. So happy that I did. 

I made this after work today and it only took an hour or so. I lit the pellets, and let it smoke for a couple hours just to see how it would work. I was amazed at the perfection of this little contraption. It is producing a nice thin blue smoke, and it's been consistently smoking for 3 hours now. I put my pork butt in an hour ago, and there is still plenty of pellets to go. I'm going to let 'er smoke for another couple of hours, and then disconnect the mailbox, and let it roast over night.

I just wanted to share, and say thank you to everyone for sharing info like this here. Makes it a lot of fun!!
 

 
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Thanks Dave!

The mailbox I bought had some holes in the bottom, and it seemed to get enough air. I drilled holes in the front, but ended up covering them because it was burning really fast. I will try raising it up though, that's a great idea. 

Also, thanks for the callout on the extension cord. I will check on that.

Matt

 
 
Looks like the MSE30's heating element is 800 watts. The cord specs are:

SJTW Wire, 75 ft length with durable 16 gauge wire

Green, 1250 Maximum Watts Insulated for 125V

Certified for use in the US and Canada

Rated 10A/125V/1250W

I should be good with that one right? Nothing else plugged into it.
 
It has been suggested by some users, the voltage drop can confuse the controller...  When you figure in the wire length inside the walls of the home + the cord, there could be problems...    I was just trying to eliminate any source of problems for you...

About holes in the bottom of the MB....  As you look at my MB mod, there is a direct path for air flow from front to back...  That's a good thing...

Air holes in any other locations "could" cause an inconsistent air flow pattern, ie, recirculating air inside the MB...   Recirculating air has reduced oxygen which can screw up the burning of pellets, and cause incomplete burning...  same as higher altitudes...   less oxygen...   

Again, just trying to help you out here by providing, what I know, as ways to improve so there are fewer problems down the road....
 
Hey Dave, 

After reading some more posts, I'm a little concerned about the elbow and duct work that I used - it may have been galvanized. I am going to check, but dammit, there is always something. 

I didn't even think about it.

What would be the problem there? I get that if it burns it is toxic, but what about the smoke just moving through?

Thanks, 

Matt
 
Those galvanized fittings will be fine, UNTIL you have a fire in the ductwork..   then zinc and possibly cadmium will contaminate the food...  and even aluminum if it is aluminized zinc...   ALL are bad for you.... very bad....
 
 
I have found elevating the AMNPS makes it work much better....    ALSO.. you need to drill holes in the door like in the picture... 3 each 3/4" holes works very well....  use a step drill....  AND leave the exhaust on the smoker WIDE open...  AND if you are using an extension cord, make sure it is #12 or #10 electrical wire....
Dave,

I am not an electrician, why #12 or #10 extension chord? I use an orange one but not sure if its a 10 or 12. Hasn't popped breakers or anything stupid that I can tell. Just wanted to know the reason so to edumicate myself...

Should be getting my AMNPS in the next few days. Will make my mailbox mod sometime next week for 4th of July weekend. Can't wait!

Wow just got notified that it was delivered! Gotta get hot on mailbox mod and get seasoned!

Thanks in advance.

Eric
 
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Eric, morning....   Voltage drop...  The bigger the wire, the less voltage drop...   There should be wire size molded into the wire covering..   The shorter the wire, the less voltage drop...  Masterbuilt recommends not using an extension cord...

It has been suggested by some users, the voltage drop can confuse the controller...  When you figure in the wire length inside the walls of the home + the cord, there could be problems...    I was just trying to eliminate any source of problems for you...
 
Eric, morning....   Voltage drop...  The bigger the wire, the less voltage drop...   There should be wire size molded into the wire covering..   The shorter the wire, the less voltage drop...  Masterbuilt recommends not using an extension cord...

It has been suggested by some users, the voltage drop can confuse the controller...  When you figure in the wire length inside the walls of the home + the cord, there could be problems...    I was just trying to eliminate any source of problems for you...
Thanks Dave. You are an awesome source of info.

What is your opinion on the voltage drop confusing the controller?
 
What is your opinion on the voltage drop confusing the controller?

I have no idea..  All I know is member have said their MES units don't operate properly on extension cords..    Could be relays don't work on reduced voltage..  diodes don't work properly on reduced voltage....   Hell, I just learned how to spell elektrysetee...
 
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I tried using an extension cord with my MES 30 Gen 1.  Didn't work as well as when I plugged it directly into the outlet.  If you don't have to use an extension, that would probably be best.  If you do need one, try to use as short and heavy gauge cord as you can get.  Just me saying.

Gary
 
Those galvanized fittings will be fine, UNTIL you have a fire in the ductwork..   then zinc and possibly cadmium will contaminate the food...  and even aluminum if it is aluminized zinc...   ALL are bad for you.... very bad....

Dave,

What is the possibility of having a fire in the duct? Or what do you do to prevent it?

I'm building mine today. I'll get pics up when it is complete.

Thanks
 
Possibility ??   Slim to none maybe....   If the pellets flame, then you will have a creosote fire, maybe, and the whole thing will be gone....   Thin aluminum burns really well....   They use aluminum powder in fireworks...  

You will have the opportunity to determine what to do with the food...  or maybe your house, if it burns also...

Me, I wouldn't worry about it.....   Galvanized ductwork is used on gas fired hot water tanks....   It seems to work OK for that application...

I'm just giving you some information so YOU can make an informed decision...

Put a thermometer into the ductwork through a small hole....    Check the temperature when operating the smoke generator..  Easy enough to do then you won't have to rely on someone else opinion...   You will be the go-to guy that has actually done a scientific test to determine the feasibility and probability of a fire....

I'm not trying to be an a-hole here....   too many folks express their opinion about safety of lots of things, with no proof their opinion is true or not...  I fall into that category on occasion but, "usually" provide a disclaimer like I have just done...
 
Thanks Dave. I guess I will try and get the temp I inside the duct.

I'll post pics and the duct temp while attempting my first stab at beef ribs tomorrow.

Once again thanks a lot
 
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