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Finally on my way to a UDS!

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 

So I picked up a drum a couple years ago.  Some time between then and now, I've picked up a replacement grill grate, gate valves, 3/4" nipples, $100 worth of expanded metal, and to my surprise I know where it's all at.  

 

Last weekend I needed to get 3 butts smoked, and had to have some one else do it. booo. That kicked me into to gear to start looking at the project again. I've been waiting all this time for a Weber grill lid...come to find out my dad has been sitting on one this whole time.  I'm still not sure when I'll be able to get the lid from my dad, but I read somewhere on here about grinding off the rolled seam and having a perfect fitting lid. 

 

So I decided that today was the day. Spent the morning grinding the lip, drilling the hole, and doing the initial burn out.

 

Unfortunately sitting out in the weeds for the past couple years has taken it's toll on it.  So there will be some extra wire wheeling and grinding to get it cleaned up. 

 

I was planning on using some Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer spray, then some Rustoleum primer and then a couple coats of paint.  Unfortunately the can of Loctite that I have says not to use on surfaces that will exceed 200 degrees.  Reading on their website I don't see that warning, so next time I'm in the store I might take a look and read a new can to see what it says.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_extend_spray/directions/Loctite-Extend-Rust-Neutralizer-Spray.htm

 

 

I'm not sure if I'll be able to find the materials (and time) to fab up the shelf and storage cubby, but here's a drawing of what I'd eventually like to have.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now that it's burned out, most of the paint is gone.  There was surface rust on the inside, do I need to do anything more than wash it out and wipe it down with some vegetable oil?

post #2 of 9

Just wash and wipe. Then season. You will need more than one hole, I have three. You can get by with fridge magnets to adjust the air to the other air inlets then eventually get pipe nipples threaded into the drum with caps. You need more air for the initial startup of the fire basket otherwise it will take a lot lot longer to get up to temp. I wouldn't worry too much about expensive paint. I use flat black woodstove paint and repaint the thin spots yearly or whenever it needs it. You still might have to weld a sleeve into the inside of that drum for the Weber lid to fit. I use the flat drum lid on mine. The bung holes allow just the right ventilation. If you have any questions fire away.

 

 

 she is not real pretty bud damn sure effective.

post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 

Right on Timberjet.  I do have 3 holes on the bottom.  I already have the nipples, caps, and  a gate valve.  I'm thinking about bringing the gate valve up high so I don't have to reach so low.  Some what lazy I know :)  

 

Next up, I'm going to have to figure out what I'm doing with the fire basket.

post #4 of 9
Look at the Big Poppa basket.

It come with the hardware to be able to raise the basket to sear or grill right under the cooking grate.
post #5 of 9

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by denniston View Post
 

Right on Timberjet.  I do have 3 holes on the bottom.  I already have the nipples, caps, and  a gate valve.  I'm thinking about bringing the gate valve up high so I don't have to reach so low.  Some what lazy I know :)  

 

Next up, I'm going to have to figure out what I'm doing with the fire basket.

I use my foot to control airflow with the ball valve. Only bending over is to remove and replace the caps. I have heard mixed reviews on extending the valve up the side. I think I read it can cause a draw issue but I can't remember where I saw that. I bolted my basket together and used a pizza pan type ash catcher and a 14 inch grate that I used tie wire to sew in, some nuts and bolts for legs and to hold the basket together and voila. I have a closeup pic somewhere and will post it up if I can find it. You don't have to over engineer these beauties they work just great simple too. Oh yeah I installed the eye bolt in the center so I could hook it with a fire place poker to remove but found that I never have had to reload during even a 16 hour smoke so it is unnecessary. 


Edited by timberjet - 9/20/14 at 10:04am
post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 

Got the barrel ground, wheeled, primed and 1st coat of paint.

 

My wife is probably wondering why I took a black barrel, ground all the paint off, and then repainted it black :)

 

post #7 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by denniston View Post
 

Right on Timberjet.  I do have 3 holes on the bottom.  I already have the nipples, caps, and  a gate valve.  I'm thinking about bringing the gate valve up high so I don't have to reach so low.  Some what lazy I know :)  

 

Next up, I'm going to have to figure out what I'm doing with the fire basket.

I extended my valve up to the top and have been lucky that I haven't had any issues with it.  I have read the same things that timberjet had mentioned, but I've had no problems, and it controls my temps pretty good.  Here's some more pics to give you more ideas with the fire basket and attaching the weber lid.  I pretty much built my firebasket the same way as timberjet.  I used a propane tank to bend the expanded metal around to form the shape and bolted it together.

 

 

 

you can see a little gap here with the lid on the metal lip.  It is rarely an issue unless it is really windy.  In those instances, I wrap stove rope around it.

 

 

 

post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 

We're rolling smoke.

 

 

post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 

Here's the Que View

 

 

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