Intake styles? - Page 2
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Finally got something done,
Most of the cuts went fine, but the first cut didn't penetrate fully (too fast feedrate). Of course the first cut was one of the pie vent intakes ;) Gotta do some manual work with plasma on that one, otherwise they look pretty good and accurate enough. I might have gone a bit overboard on the size of that pie vent, but oh well :D
- 133 Posts. Joined 9/2011
- Location: Charlotte, NC
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A-This allowed me to paint all parts front and back for no rust
B- This allows me to fine tune the slides by use of shims to get the right feel. As of yet, there are no shims and the 1/16" gap feels good. But once I fire it up and it gets hot, I will be able to adjust them if needed.
C- I build for long term use, years from now, when there is a build up of grime, dirt, ash or whatever, I will be able to disassemble and clean the slider assembly. On pie vents, I use cylinder head valve springs to maintain good seal, and all hardware is stainless.
I kinda figured that,
I think I'm going to go with similar configuration, I already cut flat bar of similar thickness of the intake slider to be welded on the door. Then I'll add shims (since there's no gap by design) and bolt on the top frame. I was thinking of using springs instead of shims, but shims are so much easier...
Worked good ....in my mind. But in the world of cookers, where ash, heat, and grime come into play, it turned into a pain in the butt!
One of my machinist built his own cooker a couple of years ago. Perfect build. Fit and finish was perfect! Though he was going to show me up! But once it got up to temperature, the door wouldn't shut, the slides wouldn't move, and the sliding racks got jammed . His tolerances were way too tight.
I explained to him like this; you tried to build your cooker like a Ar15, a precision instrument , but it needs to be built like a AK47, with plenty of slop! He's not much of a gun person, not sure he understood.....