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MYPIN TA4 PID manual, programming instructions and general PID/SSR info - by request - Page 5

post #81 of 87
I need help with mypin pid controller here. I need to know if this schematic is good and will work with hot plate. Dyer needs of starting my smoker. Thanks
post #82 of 87

On the Mypin TA4 Pid controller, I know that the 110 power is going to connect to the number 1 and 2 terminal.  Which terminal will be the Hot (Black Wire) number 1 or 2.  I'm not going to use a ssr on this build.  And also my thermocouple has the red and blue connector on it.  Is the red going to be the positive. Will my thermocoupler be connected to number 7 and 8 sinces I have only 2 connectors or will they be connected different numbered connectors.. I'm not familiar with these type builds so bare with me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

post #83 of 87
First of all, I Want to say hello to all the members of this community. I am an electrician and I am trying to help a friend make a DIY sous vide for cooking meat. Both of us are huge "meat lovers" so we kind of related to your community. icon14.gif

So my friend purchased a mYpin T4A, a pt100 temperature sensor and a " made in China" ssr da relay from the Internet. I made the connections and we tried to boil some water in order to see how this set works. Turned out the relay was malfunctional, as it had a permanently closed contact. I replaced it with an electromechanical relay, 24 V coil - NO contact rated at 250 V, and it worked.

My first problem is that while this set is on auto tune mode it works perfectly, with temperature ranging from 79 to 81.5 degrees for a set value of 80. As soon as the auto tune led is off it starts acting really sensitive, opening and closing the contact in a continuous and fast rate. This will eventually burn the electromechanical relay and probably even an ssr relay.

I pressed the auto tune button for the second time and the closing-opening procedure returned to normal, until the auto tune led went off again. At that point the contact started acting crazy again. I checked the pid values and they are greatly changed compared to the factory settings.

Second problem is whether the electromechanical relay is suitable for this operation. Any previous experience will be greatly appreciated.

Thans in advance for any suggestions, previous experiences or whatever.

George
post #84 of 87
Thread Starter 

Guess I need to re-visit this thread more often.

 

You are seeing how a PID works.  It makes a lot of small adjustments (on/off cycles) to closely regulate the process temp.  That is why SSR's are the much preferred device for use in a PID setup.  You are correct that the constant cycling of a electro-mechanical relay will wear it out. SSR's have no moving parts and do not suffer that problem.  The main issue with a SSR is dissipation of heat through proper heat sinking at the point of installation along with good ventilation.

 

SSR's don't really have "contacts".  How did you determine it was permanently closed?  You cannot use a ohm meter to check for continuity on a SSR like you would a mechanical relay.  There must be an electrical load on the output side for the SSR to function.  I've seen builders try to hook the SSR up to a PID giving a control signal and then try to check continuity on the output terminals.  That will not work.

 

To test a SSR, you need a proper triggering voltage (usually low voltage DC) to the input side of the SSR, while also having a load on the output (or switched) side of the SSR. When you remove the triggering voltage (can be from a battery), the little red LED on the SSR body should go out, and the load side power should be cut. The key is there must be a proper AC voltage to a load on the output side for the SSR to work at all.

 

Also Look at the TA4 manual at this link.  I would verify the values are set in your unit for how the cabinet and components are configured.  One value out of line with what you have will give poor results.

 

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/attachments/864

post #85 of 87

What kind of box do you stuff this controller and the ssr into I went to home depot today and just did not see what I thought was the "right" box any help here would be much appreciated.

post #86 of 87

I have the identical problem.  MYPIN PID turns relay on but not off, it continues to send current to the SSR after the target temperature is reached.

 

Anyone?

post #87 of 87
Hi folks I'm new here & don't wanta step on toes, but I think by dipping mine in here I can maybe help. I got here from searching on these MYPIN PID Controllers. I just bought a x2 pair of MYPIN Temp & Time Controllers for a convection & pizza oven build. There seems to be a scarcity of info & much of it contradictory.
Now I died a few times in the last few years & squeaked thru with some extra brain damage. But my last job was as a controls technician for a decade or so.

Proportional Integral Derivative Controllers use algorithms to tune a control process. P is for the current error or difference between the current value & the setpoint. I is a compiled (not sum of) history of past errors & D is a forecast of the future error.
Each of these elements have several values that can be tweaked to weight the value of that process element.
Now I don't have one of these in my hands yet but at least the primary weighted value for P I & D should be user adjustable or the device would be useless as a PID Controller. This is usually accessed on small freestanding devices by holding one or more keys down for several seconds. The flashing number is probably the current general process output but could be the process output for an individual element. If the number is unchanging is is likely one of the elements startup setting value.
Hope I helped and didn't offend anybody. I'll answer what I can & update when I get my paws on one of the lil buggers.
Rocket
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