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M7's build thread. Reverse Flow trailer mounted with storage compartments.

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Purchased metal for the fire box and warmer box and diverter plate today. I can hardly sit down from the beating I took when I went to pay. OUCH!

Hope this means I can start making progress here again. Look for more from me soon. Sorry for the delay.
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Love the look with the service boxes. Like an 80's Chevy work truck!

The chain is awesome!! Great idea about using it for hinges.

Wish I had some just to mess around with.


EDIT:
Good lawrd what is that drive train from!??
 
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Saturday morning I got over paying 80 cents a pound for rusty metal and started on my fire box.  

My plasma cutter is rated for 3/8" max and the plate I purchased was 5/16ths  - plasma was a struggle but still better than I would have done with a torch.

The box ended up being 30" x 30" x 21" and I recessed it about 5" into the CC in order to keep the overhang at a minimum and as much weight transferred forward as possible. 

As it stands, there might be an issue with the rig being back heavy and too light on the tongue.  I'm fearful it's going to sway when pulled at speed but the configuration can't be changed now so I'll just have to build it and see what happens.  :/

Here's a few pics.....

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Darkshadow said:
Love the look with the service boxes. Like an 80's Chevy work truck!

The chain is awesome!! Great idea about using it for hinges.

Wish I had some just to mess around with.


EDIT:
Good lawrd what is that drive train from!??
Click to expand...
 The chain is from a 1960 something Allis and Chalmers motor grader.  We purchased one a few years ago and those are leftover parts from a repair.  I have more and I'd send it to you free but shipping to Canada would be turbo, 'eh.
 
MTMseven tht is one awesome build. The only thing im wondering about is why the jack is on the passenger side, other than tht great creativity.
 
BULLYPITBBQ said:
MTMseven tht is one awesome build. The only thing im wondering about is why the jack is on the passenger side, other than tht great creativity.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the encouragement!

Two reasons:for the jack on pass side.....

1 - Working space is on the door side of the pit (driver side) if I'm walking back and forth from the wood storage area in front to the fire box out back, I don't want to stub my toe on the jack.

2 - The jack is ugly and detracts from the flow of the trailer when stationary. If I wanted to paint a logo or something on that front panel then the jack would consume real estate. .

Stepping over the tongue or walking around the other side or leaning over and turning the handle is done once or maybe twice a day when under use. That's a small inconvenience for a safer working area and better looks.
 
I understand. Im wondering if ur hinges are jamming ur doors after weld-out due to shrinkage. Or could possibly be ur fulcrum "pivot point" of ur hinges being too far in the door region instead of behind ur cut. Or a combination of the two. Check ur top cut of ur doors (if u still can) to see if there butting eachother. If they are u can grind on the CC part and get them doors to shut as tight as u had them prior to ur weld-out. Idk maybe, maybe not. Build is gna be a sweet one tho! Good luck!
 
Picked up more metal for this weekend's welding carnival...

1.5 x1.5 x1/4 angle iron  and 4x8 3/4 #9 flattened expanded metal.

I don't think the racks are gonna warp with this stuff.

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Here's my baffle plate upside down - have a slash cut piece of square tubing for the drain. Spoiler alert, your baffle will warp if you weld the whole thing in a straight line....


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I have seen many threads where people have used mineral wool. When I manage to rebuild my rig I will use it for the FB. Stone wool will take 700-800C and ceramic over 1200C. Glass wool is less heat resistant.

That specific product page does not give info on the material but the FAQ page states it's for chimney insulation. So it is probably good for the warmer box.

Cheers /Wes
 
I have a plan for the racks that I hope to finish tomorrow.

1st layer will be as low as possible with 2 slides that are exactly the width of the doors. The remainder of the layer will be stationary.

Layer 2 got nixed and replaced with a riser setup. Here's the idea....

One riser that fits on a slide grate and is moveable to whatever position you desire. This one moves with the slider.

2nd riser is wider than the pull out grate and while moveable, it does not pull with the grate. Both can be removed if bulky items need the space.

It'll make sense with pics.
 
MTM It looks like from the second to last pic tht u welded the top strap for the door onto the chamber itself. Is tht interfering with ur door not sealing at the bottom? It could possibly be jamming it up to there somewhere keeping it from closing completely. Just a thought cuz thts usually wat keeps the doors from closing flush. When welding the hinges everything shrinks upward causing watever gap u had at the top of the door to become tighter. hence, butting at the top seem before allowing the door to seal at the bottom.
 
If so, its an easy fix. U can grind the seem down a bit allowing a bit more tolerance so s not jamming. Grind alil on the door and alil on the chamber. Might even consider taking the top strap off so u can ee where ur problem is. Hell it could be the strap itself jamming it, u won't knw till u take it off. Anyway thtswat im thinking it is cause ur doors weresupported. The only thing tht would hv sprung on u is the chamber which im sure it did. But it being a two door it didnt spring much. Plus it looks like after u cut them out they were pretty even all around.
Could've possibly been the weld-out on ur straps but like I said before ur doors have stiffeners so I dont think thts the problem, but u never knw. Sorry for the rant but sealed doors are one of the most important things to hv in a great smoker.
 
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