Hope this means I can start making progress here again. Look for more from me soon. Sorry for the delay.
Edited by MTMSEVEN - 5/30/14 at 3:21pm
Saturday morning I got over paying 80 cents a pound for rusty metal and started on my fire box.
My plasma cutter is rated for 3/8" max and the plate I purchased was 5/16ths - plasma was a struggle but still better than I would have done with a torch.
The box ended up being 30" x 30" x 21" and I recessed it about 5" into the CC in order to keep the overhang at a minimum and as much weight transferred forward as possible.
As it stands, there might be an issue with the rig being back heavy and too light on the tongue. I'm fearful it's going to sway when pulled at speed but the configuration can't be changed now so I'll just have to build it and see what happens. :/
Here's a few pics.....
Fire box marked for plasma torture
I can knock this out in 1 (actually 2) hits.
moving into place
All level? or level enough I guess.
I like how it doesn't hang lower than the side boxes
The chain is from a 1960 something Allis and Chalmers motor grader. We purchased one a few years ago and those are leftover parts from a repair. I have more and I'd send it to you free but shipping to Canada would be turbo, 'eh.
Thanks for the encouragement!
Two reasons:for the jack on pass side.....
1 - Working space is on the door side of the pit (driver side) if I'm walking back and forth from the wood storage area in front to the fire box out back, I don't want to stub my toe on the jack.
2 - The jack is ugly and detracts from the flow of the trailer when stationary. If I wanted to paint a logo or something on that front panel then the jack would consume real estate. .
Stepping over the tongue or walking around the other side or leaning over and turning the handle is done once or maybe twice a day when under use. That's a small inconvenience for a safer working area and better looks.
I found mineral wool for use as an insulator for my warmer box. Anyone else used this?