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Three Some - Page 2

post #21 of 38
I put the bevel just on the pipe, hold a piece of plate big enough to cover the end and weld it on with the pipe standing on end, then take a torch and using the pipe as a guide, trim off the excess then grind it smooth. Saves all the time of trying to cut a circle to exactly match the end cap ( they usually are not perfect circles). Also, I like to install the end caps before cutting the door opening. Keeps everything lined up better.
post #22 of 38
And I will set some "tooth picks" to give it a small gap, with .045 wire, it lets me punch through and I don't have to worry about welding the inside. I know it sounds funny, but it works.
post #23 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribwizzard View Post

Also, I like to install the end caps before cutting the door opening. Keeps everything lined up better.

Do you notice any difference with the door springing doing it this way?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribwizzard View Post

And I will set some "tooth picks" to give it a small gap, with .045 wire, it lets me punch through and I don't have to worry about welding the inside. I know it sounds funny, but it works.

I like that!

post #24 of 38
I weld flanges on the doors before cutting the ends loose, so that the doors don't have a chance to Spring( or sprung or whatever ) but in the past, where I cut the door before welding end caps or firbox on, I'd have to go back and grind the opening due to the gaps would tighten up on me, so now I cut the door last ans save that extra work,

Plus, the door is the most important visual detail, and with everything else mounted, it's easier to get it positioned just right, if you cut the door first, your working extra hard to get everything lines up to the door.

In my opinion, ...just trying to share some tips that might help someone out.

You build is looking great!
post #25 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribwizzard View Post

I weld flanges on the doors before cutting the ends loose, so that the doors don't have a chance to Spring( or sprung or whatever ) but in the past, where I cut the door before welding end caps or firbox on, I'd have to go back and grind the opening due to the gaps would tighten up on me, so now I cut the door last ans save that extra work,
 

On my first one I used a plasma to cut the vertical sides and about 3" across the horizontal sides first so I could weld the side flanges on.  Than I went on to other things to allow the door to cool and came back and cut the horizontal side in sections again allowing it to cool.  Than on my last cut the door didn't move.  I was overjoyed to say the least until I realized I couldn't remove the door.  As it turned out I hadn't cut all the way through in a couple of spots on the sides that were now covered with the flanges.  I rolled the pipe over and recut the door sides which of course cut through the flanges until the door was free.  It still sprung between a 1/4 and 3/8.  On the second one I didn't weld the flanges on to avoid that situation again.  The second door cleanly fell through the pipe and again I had about a 1/4 to 3/8 spring in the door.  I'm not sure if the 1/2" material would have cut without springing anyway but I am always willing to blame mistakes on the material and not my abilities:biggrin: .

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ribwizzard View Post

 ...just trying to share some tips that might help someone out.
 

That is the point of the website after all.  I can't express to you how much you and a few others who have builds and posts on this site helped me in not only planning this build but inspiring me to get up and get it done. 

post #26 of 38
Thread Starter 

I was able spend a couple of days on the smokers and now have them on the trailer.  I still need to do a few things like add thermometers, probe holes and paint but they needed to get out of the shop and it felt good to do it!

 

The RF fully assembled with the exception of the stand. 

the  FB door on the Jambo Clone Smoker.  The RF is the same but opens left.

 

 

The hinges.  I added the door stopper on the fly.  I think it looks good.  And thank you to DaveOmak for the tip on pivot location.

 

A shot with the door open.

 

The two of them together and ready for the trailer!

 

At home and on the trailer.

 

 

Still have some work to do but can't wait to throw some heat in them and see how they work.  I am guessing I will need to add stove gasket to help seal the doors.  Any suggestions?

post #27 of 38
When I cut mine with the plasma, I usually trace the cut with a cut off wheel.

I actually cut this one yesterday, and this is the first door that sprung on me in a while. I think because it's a long skinny door, the radius is right at each end, it just twisted a bit in the middle, easy fix, and it pushes down with very little pressure.
post #28 of 38
Going to wait until the flanges and counterweight is on before I mess with it.
post #29 of 38
Thread Starter 

The best part about building one of these is learning first hand what to do on the next one.  Cleaning my plasma cuts with a cut off wheel is now going on that long list.

post #30 of 38
I think soon, we will have enough tips and photo's to make a step by step tutorial!
post #31 of 38

Really nice clean job

post #32 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by urbotrimmm View Post
 

Really nice clean job

Thank you! .  They have their imperfections that somehow the camera just didn't get pictures of but I am pretty happy with how they turned out.   I hope this weekend I will be able to begin the seasoning and learning process.  

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribwizzard View Post

I think soon, we will have enough tips and photo's to make a step by step tutorial!

There are a lot of great builds on here that could definitely contribute to that.

post #33 of 38
Aw but us fabricators are our own worse critic
post #34 of 38

Nice pair, those look great! Thats awesome to be able to build two different styles along side each other. I will definitely be looking forward to hearing what you think about each and how they compare. 

post #35 of 38

Been reading your door delimma  (sorry about the spelling).  I was smoking on mine this weekend and the door conversations were on my mind and I was looking at mine and I have the same problem as you.  I haven't really noticed it but it is because I used toggle clamps to push the doors shut tight.  It works really well and is a pretty good fix without the stress of trying to figure out how to unspring a door.

 

Just a thought.

post #36 of 38

Great looking builds, that is a really nice shop.

 

Thanks for posting your builds.

post #37 of 38
Thread Starter 

So I finally was able to put together a full smoke.  I smoked 90lbs of pork butt for my church's spring BBQ this past weekend.

*

 

 

I found that the inline was fairly constant throughout the cook and the RF fluctuated quite a bit for the first couple of hours.  I think a longer preheat, gaskets around the doors and additional intakes will help out allot.

 

Its a learning process but i have high hopes for both of these.

post #38 of 38
Thread Starter 

TXSean - Thank you.  I am really hoping to be able to get both of these to work the way they are supposed to.  at this point i don't think it fair to compare them as they both have issues that need tweaked.  I will post as the process and modifications progress.

 

urbotrimmm - how many m's do you need!!!  the door is certainly a problem.  I need to gasket both before i can compare them to each other.  I looked into the toggle clamps but i am concerned how they will work trying to push the 1/2" plate.  A buddy is using load binders. like the one pictured here.  He welded 4 chain links under the door and 4 links on the door.  did this at both ends of the door.  I might look into doing this if the gaskets don't do their job.

 

TXcam - thank you.  I wish i could claim the shop.  its kind of a long story but i worked for this company for a number of years and quit about 2 years ago.  I talked to the owner of the company and he allows me to work there as long as others are working.  Great guy, we even worked out a deal for me to buy materials at cost and than we later agreed to barter those costs against some consulting work.   

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