I was going to build a heat shield over the whole thing out of aluminum at work to keep the junk out. Any reason not to use aluminum? I can get that free!
"Mini Smokehouse" (gathering parts) - Page 3
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I was thinking the same thing Dave.. see what others have to say about it...
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Flame may still be a little starved or oxygen, or it could be junk in the pipe or dust in the air. If you drill it out to much, just use some high temp aluminized foil tape to start covering part of the holes back up (or make an adjustable air shutter)
Get some scrap 1/4" or 3/8" steel plate, spray it with 2000* engine paint and put it directly over the flame (flames pointed up). It would work like the Holland Grill then.
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Here's my thinking...... Flame up.... won't transfer heat to the pipe...... Flame down.... the pipe is directly in the flame and getting hot.... Don't know how much heat transfer there will be to the wood.... The temps of propane, methane flames is about 3500 deg F..... Just so you know...
No Dave.. I just ran a 7/16th die down it and made a new cap with a 7/16th threaded hole.. it's a little loose to start but tightens up good enough...
I also thought about welding a flat piece of 1/4" plate on the end of a 2" nipple and making the kidney shaped vents and using the kidney shaped shutter to control the air... use reducers on the other end of the 2" nipple to get down to the 1" pipe
and that's a VERY GOOD possibility.. I searched for others.. although not very thorough.. I wasn't finding anything with the 1/2" fitting for the hose that had a smaller orifice... if you search and find something.. let me know...
I'm going to play around with a bigger end cap first and then I might just wait til I get the house built to see what kind of temps I get inside and then go from there. I'm thinking bench testing is good but the real test will be how it performs inside the house.
Ding Ding Ding.......
Just a heads up. I made a few air fuel mixers out of pipe reducers like a kidney plate and they were not as efficient like the pipe caps are and the flames would easily blow out. The pipe burner should be placed upside down so the flame will wrap around the pipe and heat the pipe and also keep the drippings and trash from getting in. The burner will need to be cleaned once in a while. You can place a heat sheild over the to if you wish
ok.. so here's the burner with the new end cap... results are much better
this is on low with the slits facing up
this is on med- high
now I turned the burner over with slits on the bottom...
the last pic shows a hint of yellow... that's why I'm thinking maybe another smaller air hole or two in between the main air holes...
Thought you were building a pipe burner... not a flame thrower............ burner looks good
Turned way down low:
Needle valve open almost half a turn:
I tried the reg I use with my GOSM today, I don't know what pressure it is, and I could barely get a flame with the needle wide open. I think I have a longer pipe then you though and my slits start 16" from the orifice.
I found a place that has a 90* fitting that has the correct threads and they can make any size orifice you want.
It's part# 49-6A-61.....almost all the way to the bottom of the page.
I kinda like the 90* because my pipe is already going to stick out 4" from the house so that would keep the hose from sticking out further.
Right now I'm just going to wait til I get the house built. I like the way it's burning right now and need to see how it will work in the house, I'm sure I will have to tweak it once I get it all done. My little epoxy mod probably won't last and I like the 90* and I'm a sucker for free shipping!