250gal Reverse Flow Trailer Build

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jwsimpleville

Meat Mopper
Original poster
Jan 29, 2013
216
13
Greenville, SC
Okay, so I've been reading quite a few threads and seen many good ideas. I recently came into a 250gal propane tank and I'm gonna give it a shot at building myself a large smoker.
Here's a picture of us loading the tank up, had to drive an hour but they aren't the easiest thing to locate here in upstate SC.
I've started some of the cuts and done all the layout for the FB opening and Doors.
Here you can see I'm trying to make my own hinges before finishing the cutting of the doors
As I've recently purchased this Lincoln 180 DUAL, I'm definitley curious on how it will perform since this entire tank is 1/4"
I'm looking foward to the great support and feedback available on this forum. So let's hear it!
 
I am watching you! This is gonna be a fun one to track. I am also curious about that welder.  I keep thinking I need to buy one but not sure I can afford to swing a big miller model.  Dont forget lots of pictures and numbers for us leeches to use on our next build.

  Good luck and happy smoking
 
This 250 size is going to make a great smoker, I highly recomend going to Meadow Creeks website and look at thier 250 gallon model and how its layed out. Might give you some ideals,

I know that pics can decieve the eye some times, but I have reservations about the lines drawn for the doors.
 
Funny you should mention that, because I've researched the heck outta Meadow Creek, Lang and a few others. I just couldn't see myself paying over 5k for a 250gal smoker.
Heck with that much money I can mess it up and start over 3x's and still come in under that budget.
 
So I cut the doors out yesterday and after welding the hinge on I finished cutting the rest of the doors. I figured based on
everything I read on other threads that I may have an issue with the doors springing open due to the metal going back to the
original flat shape. However the doors did exactly the opposite and they springed closed so now my doors have a high spot in the middle.

Does anybody have the solution to fix this?

I was thinking that when I weld the Flat bar around he doors it may flatten the doors back so when closed they sit right.
 
This 250 size is going to make a great smoker, I highly recomend going to Meadow Creeks website and look at thier 250 gallon model and how its layed out. Might give you some ideals,

I know that pics can decieve the eye some times, but I have reservations about the lines drawn for the doors.
I am with you Ribwizzard on the pic on the lines drawn for the door cuts.  My experience has been that the doors are typically at about 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock.  The pic may be deceiving but to my eye they look like 12 and about 4.  This will limit how much space you have under the racks for your RF plate.
 
I am with you Ribwizzard on the pic on the lines drawn for the door cuts.  My experience has been that the doors are typically at about 12 o'clock and 3 o'clock.  The pic may be deceiving but to my eye they look like 12 and about 4.  This will limit how much space you have under the racks for your RF plate.

I like your analogy, so to clarify. I wanted the surface of the bottom shelf at 3 o'clock so I went from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock +2inches. I will have slide out grates. another reason for this is that I have it in the plans to have the option for up to 8 shelves for those times i cook nothing but ribs it should allow almost twice the quantity I would otherwise.
 
I try to put my doors bottom at 1/2" above 3 oclock,  reason is...the oil , water , and greese on the back side of the door will drip "into" the smoker, not run down the outside front and look so nasty.
 
So I cut the doors out yesterday and after welding the hinge on I finished cutting the rest of the doors. I figured based on
everything I read on other threads that I may have an issue with the doors springing open due to the metal going back to the
original flat shape. However the doors did exactly the opposite and they springed closed so now my doors have a high spot in the middle.

Does anybody have the solution to fix this?

I was thinking that when I weld the Flat bar around he doors it may flatten the doors back so when closed they sit right.
Could try putting 2X4 at a 45* across each bottom edge at the corners under the door. Next put couple 2X4s on top of door in center and wrap cable come-along around tank and tighten. If that does not work you could drill half inch holes through both sides of tank. Use threaded rod to pull center in using 2X4s to hold corners out. Something to think about.
 
The reason I mentioned meadow creek was the door design on the new models. And how they have one on the front and one on the backside.  I think its about the best set up for a 250 gallon. 120 and 500 wont work right, but for a 250 they are spot on.
 
I try to put my doors bottom at 1/2" above 3 oclock,  reason is...the oil , water , and greese on the back side of the door will drip "into" the smoker, not run down the outside front and look so nasty.
My door is two inches below center and no drips. Try to have door sit a little into the bottom edge. A little past flush.
 
This looks like it is going to be agood one to watch. As mentioned the welder should get the job done without a problem. I have welded a bunch of the same size material with a Hobart 180 with no issues.

If the door does drip down the front of the smoker you can weld a piece of flat bar across the inside of the door to make it drip into the smoker instead of run out the front. My door will be the same 2" below 3 oclock.
 
Here's a few more pics.
Here is the doors open:

Here is the doors closed:

And this picture shows how the bottom of the door came open when the door drawed in:

Before I do anything, I will wait for a few responses and see what method makes sense based on my equipment. (or lack thereof)
The bow in the middle of each door is as much as a full 1/4"
 
Could try putting 2X4 at a 45* across each bottom edge at the corners under the door. Next put couple 2X4s on top of door in center and wrap cable come-along around tank and tighten. If that does not work you could drill half inch holes through both sides of tank. Use threaded rod to pull center in using 2X4s to hold corners out. Something to think about.

Would it work to use one or two Rachet straps and slowly tighten? Or does heat need to be applied while pressing the bow out?
 
I have a Bubba grill.www.bubbagrills.net/    look at the photos of the 250R's. Weld some 1 inch stock around the lids to cover the gaps. don;t hink you can stop the gaps? But I'm sure some fab guy on here has a better answer. Goof luck, looking forward to watching the projecct.
 
Would it work to use one or two Rachet straps and slowly tighten? Or does heat need to be applied while pressing the bow out?
The ratchet straps should work. Probably not the little $5 ones, but if you have some of the 2" straps it might be enough. I would try without heat first. Heating it too much or in the wrong area may make it worse. It would probably be best to put something across the bottom of both doors instead of trying to do one at a time. That may bend the strip between the doors. You probably won't be able to get it to match up perfect, but can probably at least make it better.

Another thought, You could hook onto the top and bottom of the door with the strap on the outside of the door and try to straighten it out that way. I would use at least 2 straps per door either way. Work both ends at the same time.
 
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Would it work to use one or two Rachet straps and slowly tighten? Or does heat need to be applied while pressing the bow out?
I would not use heat. Yes would use two straps. Looks like you need to take some bend out of the doors. I would put several (6) 2X4 across the center of door  horizontally one on top of another and hook two straps to top of door across boards and to the bottom of door. The greater the angle of the straps (door edge to 2X4) the better. After pressure applied use a large rubber mallet to work the steel.
 
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