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SmokinWelders First Smoker Ever!!!! 250 gallon/trailer build

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myself i would use at least 2" channel (1/4" thick) turned sideways for the frame and cross members... 2" channel for the A frame to the tongue and then 2" square tubing for the tongue itself.. that way a you can get a coupler that fits 2" sq, tubing

Actually after thinking it over... 2" channel for the side frame and notch the sides then heat and bend to make the A frame all one piece... notch so after bent the notch will be closed and then weld it back together.... then the front cross member will be right at that bend as well.... hope I explained that right
 
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smokinwelder said:
The guy said h shortens them all the time. Not sure if im going to do that or not yet.
Click to expand...

I would not cut it down. The extra space could come in handy. Unless I totally missed how the measurements are done. After you do the tires and fenders you will be around 72" for the frame. If your tank is 30" wide, that will leave you a nice area for a grill or storage.....

Added Info: I just measured my trailer frame and axle for my build. Frame is 68" wide (not counting fenders), the frame is a 1.5"x4"x1.5". The tongue is a 3" boxed tubing. Did not measure the cross members. The axle is 86" to the outside of the hubs. I like the way it looks....
 
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I would go heavier than the 2" for the frame. I used 3x3x1/4 on a 6x12 utility trailer I built recently. I also used that for the tongue and doubled the outside where the tongue ends to the front spring hanger with it. I used 2x2x1/4 for the cross braces. Someone who knows more than might be able to guide you better. As I said before I like to overbuild.
 
I would not use angle for the frame. C-channel or box. may be more expensive but you will live to regret it with the angle I think. I assume you are going to be towing it down the road occasionally? If so, check with your DMV to see what their requirements are to be considered road worthy, and what paperwork they will need to register and title it as a shop built trailer. Would hate to see you build it only for them to shoot you down due to a lightweight frame, improper paperwork etc.

Also, as jarjar said, I would not shorten the axle, one little hair off and you will pull crooked.
 
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My two cents on building the trailer.

2" x 3" square tube for tongue, go 3/16" wall.  Ive seen so many home made trailers with bent tonque becouse they went with 2'x2" instead of 2'x3".

But I also would really think about looking around for an old one already built that just needs a little work. I get very good prices on steal due to the quantity that we buy here, and I still cant build a trailer cheaper than you can buy one at Northern Tool. $450.00 for a brand new trailer with brand new tires, axles, lights ect.   Its worth it.

For example, I was just given a 4x8 trailer last month, Needed a new tongue, tires and fenders, the rest was good.

I spent:

$60.00 on steel

$30.00 on lights

$160.00 for new tires and wheels

$14.00 for coupler

$40.00 for fenders

Total: $304.00 plus 6 hrs one saturday and another 3 hrs the next (9 hrs total)

Id trade the additional $150.00 to get my nine hrs back and have a brand new trailer that I can actually rege\ister.
 
well i acually made some progress today. I appreciate all the trailer responses, and will go through each post with a fine tooth comb to see what I like....

So here we go! I took all the fittings off the tank, poured in some dish soap, and degreaser. I only filled the tank up half way up with water because I am on a well and dont want to burn up the new water pump. I also picked up a Dexter 3500# axle thats never been used. The guy also had 2 white trailer rims, and 2 decent tires good enough for moving around the yard for the build. Right now total cost is $250 for tank, axle and wheels.

tank3.jpg

tank3.jpg


tank 4.jpg

tank 4.jpg


axle1.jpg

axle1.jpg

 
Sounds great.......

In my experience of doing several "projects" around the house and my wife's bussiness. They are never as cheap as you plan on. Take your time and do your reaserch as you are and you will end up with a great smoker that will last you a life time....
 
Hey guys. I almost have my tank filled with water. Im going to let it sit for a few days full. But I want to start figuring out what size cut out I need for my fire box, so I can make the cuts for the cut out drain the water inside. 

The tank is 30"x92". not sure what size fire box i need either. thanks, Smokin!
 
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rasimmo said:
http://www.feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html
That should help figure out the firebox. If you put 250 in the cook chamber volume, it will calculate what you need.(19250 cubic in)
Click to expand...
Thank you very much

Now I have a trailer design problem. And I need some help. My axles too wide and I dont want to cut it. I do not want to put the weight of the smoker, firebox, and warmer box on one side of the trailer on a single axle setup. so I was thinking of turning the tank 90 degrees, but then where do I put the firebox? it cant hang off the side. Lets say I pu the trailer from front to back but in the middle of the trailer with fire box hanging off back, I would have to get on the trailer to open doors and tend to food. Or turn it 90 degrees with tank from left to right, raise it, and rest fire box on trailer floor, I still would have to either build a step, or get on trailer. thats a bummer........Im really scratching my head here.......hmmmmmm
 
Shortening the torsion axle would fix my problem. I read the rubber is on each end but does not run all the way through. Can anyone elaborate?
 
SW, evening....    I have shortened axles for trailers.....  First, mount the wheels/tires and measure the width.... Decide what width for the new axle length.... The difference is what needs to be removed (X).....    Measure the height of the center of the axle.... with a straight edge, check to see if the axle is "bowed" fore or aft" , "up or down"....  Note those numbers...  Those numbers represent the toe "in or out" and "caster or camber" of the axle....  They need to be replicated when the axle is welded back together.....  Mark the center of the axle and remove 1/2 of the length (X) from each side of center....  Re position the axle and tack weld in place... make final adjustments so the axle is back to original dimensions and single pass weld with a deep penetration rod like 6013 then 7018 ...  A sleeve or an insert could be to strengthen the mid point but is not really necessary except for "pucker" feel good....   The weld is stronger than the parent metal if welded properly...  I built a 20" flatbed double axle and welded as I described....   Hauled my 26' boat and my buddies 28' boat miles.... No problem....  The center of the axle has the least amount of weight on it...  Geometry..... Levers and leverage....  

Dave
 
DaveOmak said:
SW, evening....    I have shortened axles for trailers.....  First, mount the wheels/tires and measure the width.... Decide what width for the new axle length.... The difference is what needs to be removed (X).....    Measure the height of the center of the axle.... with a straight edge, check to see if the axle is "bowed" fore or aft" , "up or down"....  Note those numbers...  Those numbers represent the toe "in or out" and "caster or camber" of the axle....  They need to be replicated when the axle is welded back together.....  Mark the center of the axle and remove 1/2 of the length (X) from each side of center....  Re position the axle and tack weld in place... make final adjustments so the axle is back to original dimensions and single pass weld with a deep penetration rod like 6013 then 7018 ...  A sleeve or an insert could be to strengthen the mid point but is not really necessary except for "pucker" feel good....   The weld is stronger than the parent metal if welded properly...  I built a 20" flatbed double axle and welded as I described....   Hauled my 26' boat and my buddies 28' boat miles.... No problem....  The center of the axle has the least amount of weight on it...  Geometry..... Levers and leverage....  

Dave
Click to expand...
Thanks Dave! I like the mounting to tires and measuring and taking #'s down. Now I just got off the phone with a buddy, tell me if this would work too.......Find center. Lets say I want to take out 20", drill a hole 10" left and right to see if rubber is present. If not, (after taking measurements for bows and such) cut in middle, and run tape down each side to find rubber. Then cut 10" off each side. Then he said before welding back together, build bottom trailer frame perfectly squared. Then take each half, slide sleeve over one end if needed, then clamp each end to each side of frame. Then he said find 60/40, and take measurements from front to back criss cross, and every which way then tack to frame. Then tack, and weld center, slide over sleeve, and weld. 

If i can take out a lil more than 20" i will, but if i cant take out at least 20" im going to have to come up with a new trailer design! yuck!

If not, I may need a phone conference here soon with you. Safety first. 
thumb.gif
 thanks for your input. Smokin!
 
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SW, Do not weld the axle to the trailer....   Weld plates with matching bolt holes for the support plates and bolt it... You can move the axle later for tongue weight adjustment...   If you want the trailer to track right for seeing down the side out of the mirror, you can do that.... Notice semi trailers track right so the driver can see what is behind him in the mirrors...   If you do it like your buddy said, you can't get the caster/camber , toe in/out correct...   don't worry about rubber in the axle....  it is only inside the tube about 10-12"...  You can see where they welded the axle to the torsion section, (usually).....  There is a pic of torsion spindles....  

Torsion Spindles.jpg

Torsion Spindles.jpg

 
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DaveOmak said:
SW, Do not weld the axle to the trailer....   Weld plates with matching bolt holes for the support plates and bolt it... You can move the axle later for tongue weight adjustment...   If you want the trailer to track right for seeing down the side out of the mirror, you can do that.... Notice semi trailers track right so the driver can see what is behind him in the mirrors...   If you do it like your buddy said, you can't get the caster/camber , toe in/out correct...   don't worry about rubber in the axle....  it is only inside the tube about 10-12"...  You can see where they welded the axle to the torsion section, (usually).....  There is a pic of torsion spindles....  

Torsion Spindles.jpg

Torsion Spindles.jpg

Click to expand...
when I said tack each end to trailer it was just for staying in place while welding center of axle, then cut tacks. But I understand I think. So on my axle made for a 80" trailer, how narrow do you think i could get away with?
 
If you apply any heat to that axle you will mess it up. I have shortened a bunch of spring axles, but would never cut or weld on a rubber torsion.That's why they are built to bolt onto brackets that come with them instead of just welding the tabs to the frame.
 
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