Auber dual PID Smoking System completed

Nuttin but bolts and plywood right now.  I'll take pictures when it is looks like something.

Joe

Here is the work in progress.


Smoker mounted on a 2' x 2' 3/4" ply handy panel from Home depot. Plywood mounted to a Sears tool stand. The plywood was given 3 coats of spar varnish, since the smoker will be outdoors on a protected patio during Iowa winters.  Another reason I wanted an external PID, is the ability to unplug it, and take it indoors when not smoking.  I wasn't comfortable leaving a smoker with digital controls out in the elements, even if it is covered up.


Mounting detail.  The nut right below the smoker foot has loctite applied, and snugged up against the foot so it doesn't move. The hole in the plywood is a touch oversize so the bolt doesn't grab.  I can then level the smoker via the bottom nuts, and the adjustable feet on the tool stand.


Since I am going to use a PID, and everybody says the wood box doesn't get hot enough with a PID, I drilled 2 extra holes for air flow, and slightly enlarged the original one.  That should allow the A-MAZE-N smoker to operate properly.  It just fits in the bottom of the smoker, on either side. The holes should be easy to plug up if too much air flow, but hard to drill/enlarge once it is re-assembled.  Note that I took the heating element out, just to make sure I did not smash it. 


Here is the back with the back panel and insulation removed. (wear gloves and a mask - fairly cheap fiberglass that generates dust)  I have bypassed the thermostat.  Simply remove connections to the thermostat and connect the two wires together. The red "on" light still works after you do this.  This connection is underneath the red shrink wrap.  I am going to attach the AC cord to the plywood, and only have it reach the PID, so as not to plug the smoker into the wall, and forget about it.

Also, I opted for Auber's in-wall probe.  The 5/16" hole is drilled for the probe, and shows right above the red shrink wrap.

I bought the BRADLEY smoker PID from Auber, received it, then decided I wanted the dual probe model, so that isn't here yet.  I liked the idea of an alarm, and also the ability to do something based on the food temperature.  The SMOKER output on the Dual PID can be used to control anything that draws under 3 amps.  (per Auber 2 days ago)

So, I need to get the PID from Auber, route cables, fashion a shelf for the PID. reassemble, and smoke some butt.

I do have the heating element re-installed, and it does work, and the red light still lights.

(and yes audiophiles, that is a Pioneer SX-980 receiver, circa 1978, in the background that plays FM during the build.)



The last 2 pics are my $8.99 jerky dryer.  I do like to make jerky, and understand that this smoker needs more air to properly dry the jerky.  An old 12 volt fan "GOOPED" to the top of a 3" piece of PVC.  Some gasket material gooped to the PCV coupler, with the connection to the fan on a quick disconnect so I can try 6v, 9v and 12v supplies, just to see which one works best.

BTW - GOOP is a very useful contact adhesive, that can be cut away almost like silicone if you need to unstick parts.

Yes - I am retired - Why do you ask?

All for now,

Joe

Here is the latest update on the project.

Smokinjoe

I bought the Master BBQ M3500.  The product description stated that it comes with 3 racks, but it had 4 regular racks and one seafood rack.  Pleasantly surprised.

Smokinjoe

Today's  (9/8) update



These 2 pictures show the back panel slotted and drilled for a grommet, and how it looks installed back on the smoker. The grommet is sliced through on the bottom, so the probe cable can slide up the slot and into the grommet.The next couple shots show the tools I used to tackle the stainless work.  Some simple tools can get the job done.


On the left is a 1/8 ' round head dremel tool bit. It came very useful for a pre-drill nick in the stainless.  I tried a spring loaded center punch, but that did not leave ANY impression.  I then tried a hammer and a regular center punch but that did not work on the back since the sheet was too thin. I. E. I didn't want to deform the stainless sheet metal.  I chucked up the 1/8" round bit, set the rpm on the dremel to 30K and created a little dimple.  Just enough for either the 5/16" regular bit or the step drill to bite and start drilling.  This seems like a good trick, when a center punch would "punch out" the back of your smoker, and probably NOT leave an indent for the drill in the process.


On the left is a Dremel cut off disc.  This was used to cut the slots leading up to the grommet on the back panel of the smoker.  This actually worked quite well, and cut fairly fast.  On the left is a Dremel abrasive disc.  This worked really well to deburr all the holes after drilling.  There are dangerous edges after drilling, so be sure to deburr on both sides to protect your hands when they swipe across the holes.


Last are the set of step drills I purchase at Harbor Freight, an the 5/16" 135 degree bit used to drill the hole in the back.  The step drills seemed to work OK, but I believe the bits dulled after just drilling 2 holes in the bottom of the smoker.  Also, I did use light weight oil when drilling.

All for today.

Thanks Dave,

I used a 3/8 variable speed drill, and ran it about 1/4 to 1/3 speed.  Maybe that was still too fast, as either the steel hardened, or the bits dulled quickly.  I did take my time and let the drill bits cool, but it was not fun drilling those holes.  I accomplished what I wanted to do, so all is good.

Joe

Final Assembly completed as the Auber controls hit the mailbox.


Here is the back side showing the holes for cable routing.  The hole right in back of the Auber PID will prevent the device from being pulled off the shelf in case somebody pulls on the AC cords.  It also makes for a clean installation.


Outside and up to temperature.  This is the initial smoke, so the smoker is empty.  It took the system only 15 minutes to get to 225 degrees.  The Auber has been holding +/- 2 degrees at the factory "Bradley Smoker" settings.  The A-maze-n smoker has been performing well, so the extra holes drilled in the bottom are allowing ample circulation. I may block off a hole and see if it continues to smoke.  I am assuming the trade off to more/better circulation is a loss of moisture.
 

All set to try a couple rack of baby backs tomorrow.

First batch of ribs came out very good.  (I'll save the term "great" for when I have a few years of smokin under my belt.)  I was concerned that the extra holes in the bottom would reduce the moisture, and dry the meat out a little.  I did smoke with a small aluminum foil pan of water on the bottom opposite the AMAZEN smoker.  The ribs were nice and moist.  Don't know if I need the water or not.

I am already thinking about the next mod...a more powerful heating element.  Here's why:

The smoker came up to 225 degrees in 15 minutes when it was empty.

Today I loaded 2 racks of Babybacks at fridge temp, and 2 frozen andouille sausages, and it took about an hour to hit 225.  The Auber had full power until the 210 mark, then the duty cycle was still quite high, so it is not the Auber that is the issue. Ambient air temperature was about 80 degrees today.

My concern is if I load it with 6 racks of ribs and  a dozen sausages when the ambient air temperature is 25 degrees, how long will it take to reach set point, and how does that impact taste, cooking times etc.

A higher wattage heating element would help this situation, and the Auber would have no trouble maintaining the set point.

It looks like the Cookshack 1200 watt element might be made to fit.  Obviously I need more runs before attempting anything.  The Auber maintained 225 within 2 degrees.  When I opened the door, it did overshoot to 229, but then came back to 225 in a few minutes.  So far, I am pleased with the PID controller.

I loaded 2 rows on the A-maze-n 5x8 smoker. All pellets were consumed at the 4 hour mark. That was about what I expected, maybe a little less than hoped for.  I would anticipate no more than 6 hours of smoke with the amount of air flow I have at 225 degrees.  I may try blocking one bottom hole to see if I get a little longer smoke, and to see if it keeps burning.

Maybe a 30 - 45 minute preheat when fall/winter comes??  Instructions say not to preheat, but I don't understand why.

All for now.

Smokinjoe