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Meat Slicer Help - old models

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 

Hey everyone, I don't know much about meat slicers. I did some research and I'm thinking about going towards an older commercial type model that is solid and well built. I'm trying to find one on craigslist and ebay, etc etc. What do you think about these two?

 

Or do you recommend a newer cheaper model from cabela's or something?

 

US Slicing   110V  $150

usslicer.jpg

 

Berkel Commercial  12.5''  115V  $250

 

berkel.jpg

post #2 of 9

I recently acquired a Berkel slicer like you have at the bottom. I am very pleased with it.

post #3 of 9

Depends on a couple things: 

 

1) How does the motor sound?  Any skips, wobbles or grinding?

2) How sharp is the blade?

3) Does it have a useable sharpening system on it that locks in place and with useable sharpening wheels, and can the be replaced?  (Many times you'll see a slicer and there's sharpening stones with them; you buy it and get it home and the sharpener is for an entirely different model, it doesn't fit it because they lost the original one and couldn't find a replacement, so they stuck a random with it figuring you'd be none the wiser until you tried sharpening it. With no sharpening system and a dull blade, it's useless.)

4) Does it have frayed wiring?

5) Does it use 110VAC or 220VAC?

6) When you dial the thickness gage to 0 are the blade and fence flush?  What is the gap between the blade and the fence?  Should be no more than ¼" or so; too big a gap and it will yank the meat into it instead of slicing it.

7) Is there a push guide so you don't have to hold the meat itself so your fingers are protected, or is it broken in any way?

8) Any problems with the on-off switch?

9) Can it be disassembled easily and go back together correctly with no missing contact or hold-down points so it can be cleaned and reassembled properly and safely?

10) Turn it on with the fence set to 0 and check the roundness of the blade; does it go around equally or does it get closer and then further away from the fence as it goes around, indicating an unbalanced blade (sharpened incorrectly) or a failing motor (bearings giving way)?

 

Just some basics to check for.

post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 

I can't say enough, but thank you for the information. I've never owned a slicer but after reading your 10 tips I am already breaking it down just by looking at pictures and minding your tips. You've been extremely helpful and I have much more confidence in bargaining for a slicer now, again, thank you.

 

If anyone else has some good pointers or tips towards a good quality solid built slicer under $300 buckaroo's I'd appreciate the help!

 

Thanks again POPS, that was extremely helpful for me.

post #5 of 9

Holy info Pops!!! I literally just copied and pasted this and printed it out to use when I start looking for a slicer. Like thoseguys said thank you so much for the info.  Some of you guys one here not only know your stuff but, are able and willing to use your great knowldge to help everyone else out.  Justed wanted to let you know how appreciated you and all the people are who go into great detail to answer a question.

 

Wade H

post #6 of 9

+1  I agree Herms! 

post #7 of 9
Thread Starter 

This is what I received back from the seller of the "US slicing" slicer.

 

What sorta shape is your slicer? On a 1-4 scale it's a 3 or "good" for an old slicer

1) How does the motor sound?  Any skips, wobbles or grinding? Motor sounds good
2) How sharp is the blade? Pretty sharp.  I sharpened it with the self sharpening system.  I think you can get it sharper with a stone.
3) Does it have a useable sharpening system on it that locks in place and with useable sharpening wheels, and can they be replaced? The sharpening wheels work but should probably be replaced, $15 on line.

4) Does it have frayed wiring?  The pigtail had the casing cracked.  I put electrical tape on about 8" of it.
4) When you dial the thickness gage to 0 are the blade and fence flush? yes What is the gap between the blade and the fence?  0 to3/4"
5) Is there a push guide so you don't have to hold the meat itself so your fingers are protected, or is it broken in any way? Spring loaded push plate, reversable, works great, nothing broken at all.
6) Any problems with the on-off switch? no
7) Can it be disassembled easily and go back together correctly with no missing contact or hold-down points so it can be cleaned and reassembled properly and safely? Yes
8) Is the blade straight and balanced? Yes
 
I'm told that there used to be a glass tray that your meat or cheese landed on after it was sliced & that they are alwasy broken.  I used a small cutting board in it's place.  I'm pretty firm on the price.

post #8 of 9

I have an older Berkel slicer. It is smaller than yours but it works great. They are easy to find parts for but they can be a little pricey. It's a good thing that they are built like a tank. Good Luck!

post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Herms View Post

Holy info Pops!!! I literally just copied and pasted this and printed it out to use when I start looking for a slicer. Like thoseguys said thank you so much for the info.  Some of you guys one here not only know your stuff but, are able and willing to use your great knowldge to help everyone else out.  Justed wanted to let you know how appreciated you and all the people are who go into great detail to answer a question.

 

Wade H



haha, yeah I pasted that in my email to the seller with a couple minor changes (making it sound like I am asking the questions, not POPS! :) ) and it was such a great help!

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