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Mes 30 wire repair...with R-view!!

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 

The last four of my unit is 0910...

 

The wires that connect to the element have a reputation for having crappy connectors and wire.

 

I have had mine running pretty much 2-3 times a week for 1.5 years.

 

The first time it quit I was able to clean them and get new connectors and drive on.

 

This time the element and wires burned up.

 

I called MB and the element is on back order for 30 days....

 

So I cleaned what was left of the element and cut the wires back and cleaned them.

 

Wrapped  together and soldered.  Then duct taped evreything and put it back together.

 

It works...

 

 

 

Before..

 

mes 30 repair 001.JPG

 

 

mes 30 repair 002.JPG

 

mes 30 repair 003.JPG

post #2 of 16

Whatever it takes to keep stuff running... Good fix Craig.... Now that the connectors are soldered you probably won't have any more problems... Right !!!

 

post #3 of 16

I have heard of this being done before.    There has never been a follow up on how long the solder repair lasts.   Seems that the temperature generated by the heater would be sufficient to melt the solder off of the terminals.    Has anyone looked at a solder repair after it has been used to see if it melts or not!  Would think it would be a better than terminal fix if it stays put.

post #4 of 16

Yep duct tape, WD-40, and a crescent wrench is all you need to repair the world.

post #5 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinAl View Post

Yep duct tape, WD-40, and a crescent wrench is all you need to repair the world.


You forgot bailing wire!

 

post #6 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinAl View Post

Yep duct tape, WD-40, and a crescent wrench is all you need to repair the world.



 



Quote:
Originally Posted by eman View Post


You forgot bailing wire!

 




AND Bubble gum!!!  One of the most important ones.

post #7 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Illini View Post

I have heard of this being done before.    There has never been a follow up on how long the solder repair lasts.   Seems that the temperature generated by the heater would be sufficient to melt the solder off of the terminals.    Has anyone looked at a solder repair after it has been used to see if it melts or not!  Would think it would be a better than terminal fix if it stays put.


Enjoyed the joking around but on a practical view I wonder if this is a viable alternative to replacing spade lugs.    There are three MES's in my arsenal and I have replaced at least one spade lug on two of them at times.    I wonder if anyone in SMF land has had a long term experience with soldering the lead to the terminal?    My opinion is that the solder would melt away.   My other thought is to silver solder the thing together,  which takes a higher heat than tin and lead solder.

 

Just looking for a more permanent solution when this happens again !!!

 

Thanks!!

 

 

 

 

post #8 of 16
Thread Starter 



 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Illini View Post


Enjoyed the joking around but on a practical view I wonder if this is a viable alternative to replacing spade lugs.    There are three MES's in my arsenal and I have replaced at least one spade lug on two of them at times.    I wonder if anyone in SMF land has had a long term experience with soldering the lead to the terminal?    My opinion is that the solder would melt away.   My other thought is to silver solder the thing together,  which takes a higher heat than tin and lead solder.

 

Just looking for a more permanent solution when this happens again !!!

 

Thanks!!

 

 

 

 


Take a look at the pics again...

 

The male portion of the element/lug is burned off.

 

I would definitely solder the connectors when new if I had known this would happen..

 

Fact is that the 60/40 solder I used doesn't melt until it hits 361 degrees Far.

 

  Craig

 


 

 

post #9 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by fpnmf View Post



 


Take a look at the pics again...

 

The male portion of the element/lug is burned off.

 

I would definitely solder the connectors when new if I had known this would happen..

 

Fact is that the 60/40 solder I used doesn't melt until it hits 361 degrees Far.

 

  Craig

 


 

 


Thanks Craig,

When the Calrod is glowing red hot and the heat is migrating out to where the spade lug used to be I am wondering what the temp is at the solder joint    Possibly 361 degrees or higher?

 

 

post #10 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Illini View Post


Thanks Craig,

When the Calrod is glowing red hot and the heat is migrating out to where the spade lug used to be I am wondering what the temp is at the solder joint    Possibly 361 degrees or higher?

 

 



The next time I fire it up I will take the panel off and check the temp during use!!

 

  Craig

 

post #11 of 16

Craig,

Thanks for your efforts.

That will be of interest and value to me.

 

Marvin

post #12 of 16

well i repair autos for living my strong point is eletrical i've soldered a lot of wires it depends how well it was prept for solder the resistance in the solder joint can heat it up enough to melt it.

post #13 of 16

icon_eek.gif wonder if they held up? Ya out there Craig?

post #14 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinAl View Post

Yep duct tape, WD-40, and a crescent wrench is all you need to repair the world.



you forgot the metal coat hanger

 

post #15 of 16

And bubble gum

post #16 of 16
As an electrician, I doubt that the duct tape will last long on heating elements, and the solder questionable. I would suggest some type of pressure connector like a lug or even a crimp on.
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