snp rusting - thoughts on maintaining?

Discussion in 'Charcoal Smokers' started by downstatesmoker, Sep 18, 2009.

  1. Hi guys,

    I've got an snp which is now about 3 years old. Due to the fact that I will smoke rain or shine (not as often as I like, but not so weather dependent) and I don't have great covering for my smoker (makes it difficult to maintain temps), the firebox on my snp is starting to suffer a bit.

    The box is showing rust along the top and (even worse) the hinges.

    How are people maintaining their boxes and recovering from rust? Are there particular paints or produces (I know paint on the outside only) that people use to combat the buildup of rust and remove the rust that is already there?

    As always any help would be greatly appreciated!

  2. mballi3011

    mballi3011 Smoking Guru OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    I would guess because my smoker is out if the weather. WD-40 could be your friend just give it a squirt every now and then on the hinges (not when the smoker is hot) and it should help protect it and lube it at the same time. There are paints for the outside but someone else will have to help you with that one there are many people here that have built their own smokers here.
  3. 3montes

    3montes Master of the Pit OTBS Member

    Hi temp paint specifically for grills (and smokers) is readily available at Wal Mart or any hardware, home improvement store.
    If you already have a rust issue which sounds like you do you will need to remove as much of it as possible. Try to wire brush it and see if you can get it down to bare metal that way. If not try some sandpaper. Either way I would recommend getting the rusty areas down to bare metal before painting. They don't make a hit temp primer paint as far as I know of so once it is down to bare metal spray several thin coats of paint over the bare metal areas allowing each to dry a half hour or so in between coats.

    Painting over the rust wont get you anywhere. Make sure you do the elbow grease needed to get it removed. Hopefully while doing this you won't discover that it has nearly rusted through.
    I bought heat shields for my snp several years ago. I think these helped a great deal. Part of your rust problem has most likely come from high heat in the fire box bubbling off the original paint over time.
    The heat shields do a great deal in preventing this from happening.
    However you do need to take the heat shields out (I do after every smoke) and make sure you clean out the ash that finds it way underneath them. when not in use I turn the heatshields upside down in the smoker so moisture does not get trapped underneath.

    Here is a link to the heat shields I am referring to. They show they are currently sold out.

    Hope this helps!!
  4. I've used the regular POR-15 for rust repair on cars before, so after a quick visit to their site I found out there are a few high heat options that they offer:

    the 1200 degree rated "black velvet" should be good for that application. Although its a little pricy ($18.75 plus shipping for 8oz) I know its a good product and that will cover lots of smoker.
  5. tasunkawitko

    tasunkawitko Master of the Pit OTBS Member

    rub it down with lard as it cools down. olive oil or even pam spray will work just as well, but to me, lard seems to work a little better, plus it is cheap.

    anyway, after a few applications, it seasons on just like a cast iron frying pan. problem solved.
  6. forluvofsmoke

    forluvofsmoke Smoking Guru OTBS Member

    El-cheapo vegetable oil...brush it on, or wipe on with a cloth while it's still warm, it will penetrate into the metal pores and prevent additional rust. Work oil into the hinges well to keep them free-moving.

    It will smoke alot and stink when you first fire it up and starts getting hot, but it won't last that long, the oil will vapor-off when it get hot enough...neighbors may wonder what you've set on fire... [​IMG]

  7. I'm out of the state on business for the next week or so. When I get back I think I am going to try a combination of a couple of things.

    1. Before I left I purchased a wire brush and Rustoleum high heat grill paint. Going to get the rust off and repaint the outside

    2. after the paint application (paint goes up to 1000 degrees) I'm going to try to see if the grill will take some oil as suggested by some of the members here.

    3. I'm going to thank all of the members here. You guys are the best, always quick to assist!
  8. ddave

    ddave Master of the Pit OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    What they said. [​IMG]

    The paint flaked off the bottom of my firebox not long after I converted it to gas. Didn't feel like dismantling it to paint it proper so I just got as much paint off as I could and wiped it down with Crisco. No need to paint or even deal with it now after a few coats.

  9. kookie

    kookie Master of the Pit OTBS Member

    To fight the rust chargriller says to spray the inside and outside of my chargriller down with pam or veg oil.
  10. azkitch

    azkitch Smoke Blower

    I took my FB off, wire brushed it and painted w/Krylon. I haven't yet re-installed it. I have the aforementioned heat shield, but I haven't been cleaning under it. The mounting area seems to have started rusting again--we had some rare rains right after I finished. I guess I'll clean it up again, put on a bit more paint. I need a serious cleaning on the cooking chamber!! Hope it goes well for ya. Wire brushing these things takes a while!
  11. I butter up my firebox every few smokes with a generous helping of Crisco, it's been working pretty good.
  12. When I had mine built, there was a tremendous amount of rust, so I took an angle grinder and a wire wheel and knocked off the rust. I don't think that will be necessary for you. Probably just a hand held wire brush should do it. Wipe it down very well to get the particles off. Then, just like the paint, ONLY ON THE OUTSIDE, spray or brush on some phospho and let it sit for at least 24 hours. It will look terrible after the 24 hours. There will be black and white streaks and look like you ruined it, but no worries. The phospho prepares the surface for painting. Make sure you wear gloves and a mask wouldn't be a bad idea either. Then paint it. I didn't want to be painting all the time, so I went with a quality paint from a paint store. It was expensive, but when I applied it I knew why. There is a world of difference between the heat resistent paint from Walmart and the good stuff. I got mine from a paint store that supplies the industry around here. I put one coat on and it went on so well it didn't require a second. Just my two cents.

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