MES30 won't power up

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saigonjj

Fire Starter
Original poster
Oct 9, 2012
37
12
Vietnam
Haven't used it for a while since I mostly cold-smoke, but last night (with a batch of jerky ready to go) I found my MES30 won't power up. I opened up the back based on this guide (https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-rewire-simple-guide-no-back-removal-needed.267069/) and everything looks good, AC coming through, but won't power on.

I took apart the controller on top and only saw tiny voltages on the 4 pins, less than 1 VDC, so I guess something is broken in the electronics buried inside.

If I want to follow the above guide for an "always on" controller bypass, what would be the simplest (and not expensive) additional hardware to add an external temperature controller? I'm imagining my smoker getting AC from a device that turns it on and off, dangling a temperature probe in through the top vent and setting a temperature somewhere. Thanks, and I'm off to see if I can dry my jerky in the oven...
 
Though not the cheapest way using an Auber PID sure as heck is the easiest way.

Depending on your model # you may need to do nothing more than unplug one wire harness and plug into another and done,though doing the rewire isn't all that hard either. tallbm tallbm guide is very easy to follow and he is more than happy to answer any questions you may have about it as are others also.
 
I have an Auber pid for my mes and love it... took my 25 to 30 degree temp swings down to holding within 2 degrees. Mine was around $150 I think, probably a little more now but totally worth it!

Ryan
 
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. I opened up the back based on this guide
Those pics in the thread are from the bottom . Make sure you're in the back .
This is a 30 . See the access panel with 6 screws ? You need to look in there if you haven't already . Unplug the unit first .
20190116_162123.jpg
Connection to the heating element burnt through .
20181104_140731.jpg
Repaired .
20181105_125842.jpg
 
Those pics in the thread are from the bottom . Make sure you're in the back .
This is a 30 . See the access panel with 6 screws ? You need to look in there if you haven't already . Unplug the unit first .
View attachment 707207
Connection to the heating element burnt through .
View attachment 707205
Repaired .
View attachment 707206
This was the problem with my MES30 and its actually garage kept. I went ahead and replaced the heating element while I was working on it. 25 bucks for the kit.
 
Guys have you covered. On the Auber it's like a leap of faith. Yep, pricey and it will sting a while. Then you slowly start to see the benefits, then you come expect them every run, then you end up realizing you can use it on other smokers. They are running a TG sale...
 
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Haven't used it for a while since I mostly cold-smoke, but last night (with a batch of jerky ready to go) I found my MES30 won't power up. I opened up the back based on this guide (https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-rewire-simple-guide-no-back-removal-needed.267069/) and everything looks good, AC coming through, but won't power on.

I took apart the controller on top and only saw tiny voltages on the 4 pins, less than 1 VDC, so I guess something is broken in the electronics buried inside.

If I want to follow the above guide for an "always on" controller bypass, what would be the simplest (and not expensive) additional hardware to add an external temperature controller? I'm imagining my smoker getting AC from a device that turns it on and off, dangling a temperature probe in through the top vent and setting a temperature somewhere. Thanks, and I'm off to see if I can dry my jerky in the oven...
Hi there and welcome!

The only surefire option is a PID controller.

Now a wild card option is to get a rheostat to regulate the amount of power going through to the MES and then use a wireless thermometer to measure the smoker temp (you probably have one already).
The issues with this approach are:

1. The thermometer cannot trigger the controller to stop/start/increase/decrease power to hit and hold the temp. You will look at the temp and then go twist the dial on the rheostat and then do this song and dance until you hit the temp you want, IF it can even behave enough for you to do that.

2. You would need a rheostat that is fine grain enough to hit the temps you want. Meaning the dial has to have enough markings and range so that a small turn does not drastically drop or increase temp in the smoker.

3. Your rheostat markings will not be temp markings so you will have to simply mark on it (at a specific marking) what the temp is there, provided it hits and holds a steady temp there.


I did a quick look to see if I could find a 240V oven controller with thermostat that could handle the 110v range and did not see anything definitive.
There are other temp and voltage control devices like the rheostat I mention that do have a thermostat but they are not options because they either fail to handle 15A or they have a top heat limit of like 210F because they were not built for oven/cooking applications but more for greenhouse, plant, and pet reptile heating purposes.


So again, an Auber PID (about $160 for the lowest option that will work) is your best option. Building a for the 1st time will run you more money than that in parts, consumables, and tools to build it. Not to mention the number of days it takes to fabricate and assemble it. Even at that 1st time will have bumps in the road you would want to change going forward.


Finally, the PID option is best looked at as you buying a whole new smoker for $160 BUT it will turn your current MES into an electric smoker that would cost more than $1k smokers on the market that do the same thing with the same control. I always say it's like transforming a Golf Cart into a Ferrari. Your MES will perform a bajillion times better, tighter, and without issues.

You can no also keep it running through anything short of a tornado because the components to repair are now minimal and are usually things like electrical connectors, the crappy high temp limit switch, and the heating element. The heating element is like a $30 part and the others are like $5-7 on amazon for a hand full of the parts.

If you decide to replace the heat limit switch with one that has a higher range 180C/356F then you can do fast 2-4 hour smokes at 325F to solve problems with chicken and turkey skin. I do not recommend ever going over 4 hours at 325F because the foam insulation inside is not rated to be working at those temps continuously. I do this with only chicken and turkey smokes and my smoker has had no issues for years.

So you see an Auber PID for $160 is less expensive than any new smoker you can buy AND you get something so much better than you could buy for $1k.

I hope this info helps :D
 
Thanks, everyone. All connections look clean, not corroded or burnt, so it's a mystery what happened.

I see tallbm's guide to bypassing the controller, which is how I got inside mine to look, but is there a guide that can walk me through parts and steps needed for the Auber PID solution?
 
In the guide you were already reading, you would simple cut the wires and connect 1 to 2, and 3 to 4 to do the simple rewire.
If you do this then the plug will simply take power and feed it to the heating element uncontrolled. You can rewire and test by plugging it into the wall and the heating element will heat up. Just be sure to unplug it once confirmed because it will NOT stop heating until the safety switch stops it or it melts down.
Also make sure your breaker hasn't flipped when doing this.

1731286754391.png



Also, have you cut a panel in the back to ensure the hi temp safety switch is ok and not melted down or corroded at the connectors?
Often there is no panel and you have to cut your own to get to it.
 
Where would I look for the high temp safety switch? Have dremmel, will cut... :D
 
Where would I look for the high temp safety switch? Have dremmel, will cut... :D
This thread should have pics and details for you, ask any questions you have :D
 
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