Hi there and welcome!
This can likely be fixed as its 1 of 3 things.
1. Bad connectors at the heating element, safety rollout limit switch, or lower circuit board
2. Bad safety rollout limit switch (often connectors corrode and burn out and melt down the switch)
3. Bad controller (top) or lower circuit board (yeah technically 4th area lol)
The first thing to do is to check the connectors at the heating element, lower circuit board (panel bottom side of smoker and is in a plastic black box), and the safety rollout limit switch.
Now if you have a panel half way up the back of the smoker then you are in luck (not lower back that is heating element).
If no panel, well I would suggest you locate the safety limit switch from the inside of the smoker. It is a round quarter sized looking thing.
(Inside round switch where one of these 2 arrows are pointing)
View attachment 647667
(What it looks like from the back with panel or homemade panel open)
View attachment 647668
(Clearly a switch and wire corrosion/meltdown issue here)
View attachment 647669
Measure where it is then cut a panel on the back of the smoker to get to it. You could also pull the back off to get to it but this is an unpleasant option.
When you pull/disconnect the wires from the heating element, circuit board, and safety rollout limit switch you will know if they are all corroded away and/or bad. Replace them with hi temp ones like these:
Also while u are doing this and the wires are disconnected from the safety rollout limit switch use a Multimeter's continuity setting and touch each of the tabs to see if the Multimeter beeps. The switch is Normally Closed so should indicate continuity (no breaks in circuit) from one tab to the other. You can get one cheap at a local store or here's one that will work from
Amazon, has good reviews fro like $10. You can get one for like $7 at a local Harbor Freight store if you have one:
If the multimeter proves your safety rollout limit switch is good then that is nice. If it proves it is bad well you can wire around it but WARNING/DISCLAIMER you are doing this of your own volition and you are removing a safety mechanism.
Doing so to ensure your smoker is heating up and working is find and you can replace the switch with this EXACT ONE:
uxcell A13092400ux0093 5 Piece NC Ceramic Temperature Switch Thermostat 155 Degree Celsius KSD301 Gold Tone Terminal: Industrial Basic Switches:
Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
You may think you can get one cheaper but there are 2 designs and they both look the same. One of the designs will not work. Plus these are ceramic to avoid melting down so fast AND they are the correct temp. Deviate at your own risk :)
So solution 1 and 2: replace bad/corroded electrical connectors and replace a faulty rollout limit switch (or wire around until you can/want to replace it).
Finally, if the circuit board is burnt up, bad, or the top controller is bad your only option to use that smoker is to do a simple rewire (cut ends off 4 circuit board wires and wire nut together to make 2 whole wires). Then use something like an Auber PID which runs like $160, HOWEVER turns your smoker into an absolute beast!
(this one covers your smoker no matter what)
Auber Instruments, Inc. Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - The WS-1510ELPM is a versatile temperature controller to have in your home. It can be used for various applications such as Sous Vide cooking, controlling an electric smoker, making yogurt, dough proofing, controlling the...
www.auberins.com
A rewired MES with an Auber PID is like turning a golf cart into a Ferrari and you can keep it running through anything short of a lightning strike lol.
For $160 you will not find any smoker out there that could come close to what you would have with your MES rewired and using a PID.
I hope this info helps. Ask all the questions you have :) 1 more question about the PID. Is there anything else I would need. I am assuming I will use the same burner and temp switch. Is there a power supply in the smoker or does everything go straight 120.