Brinkmann Trailmaster Limited Edition

[david824]

Hey guys and hello from a newb.  I've recently gotten the aforementioned smoker and I've used it twice so far and just managed to ruin two slabs of ribs.  So I'm giving it another go this Sunday.  But my main question is in regards to a mod for this smoker.  I saw, I believe on page one of the thread about adding the fire resistant silicone to help seal the doors.  I picked up some of that today and please pardon my ignorance but not sure I've ever even used silicone before much less a caulk gun.  But my question is, I assume that when applying the silicone that I need to keep the doors open until the stuff hardens.  Is that the case?  Sounds like, if I don't the door will be more/less permanently shut. :)  

I also have me a 3rd party thermometer coming today from Amazon, so I hope that helps with my temperature control.  I guess in regards to that is, where's the best place you all have found to place the probe?  Near the firebox? Center? etc etc.

Thanks all,

David

 

[thackman]

In my opinion. The best mod that I made to the TMLE was to add a 1/4" thick baffle and tuning plates. My temps are within 5*F from one end to the other.

 

[thackman]

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• thackman
• Jul 3, 2015

Baffle plate

 

[thackman]

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• thackman
• Jul 3, 2015

Tuning plates.

 

[misterc01]

I have had outstanding success with the hi temp FDA approved food safe caulk by first making sure the lid closes as tightly as possible mechanically. A little bending with a broom handle across it to keep the top round and some gently taps with a body hammer got it as close as possible. Then I taped wax paper across the bottom opening on the sealing edge. Then I applied about 1/4 inch bead of caulk the door where it contacts the bottom opening  and GENTlY lowered it so it makes complete contact. . After a 24 cure time, open it up, remove the wax paper (which easily separates from the caulk) and you have a near perfect seal. I found  this method ensures there are no voids or high spots and the mating surfaces are actually sealed.  Not sure what a 3rd party thermometer is, but  have four temp  gauges on my smoker. Two are at grate level where I place meats, one at the firebox  just above the handle and one at the standard BBQ top level which corresponds to the top warming shelf. This way I can monitor  the grate temps at the meat level, the firebox temp and if I use the top shelf that temp as well. IMHO opinion if I were to only have one,  I would put it at grate level in the center or slightly off set way from the firebox. I put a water pan on the side nearest the firebox. Temperature control is probably the  biggest  issue as far as frequent monitoring. and KEEP A LOG to  you can refine your  techniques with different meats, charcoal/woo/lump etc and your smoke source - cherry mesquite, etc. Aa you  smoke more, you get a "feel": for when things are close to done more than relying on times, etc.  

Pete

 

[remmy700p]

 
...I found that it maintained this low heat by keeping the firebox damper almost wide open and adjusting my heat with the chimney pipe and starting with that almost closed, then gradually opening it up till I got to the right temp, and it seamed to work perfect...

You're doing it exactly backwards. You need to leave the exhaust damper WIDE OPEN -- ALWAYS! -- and adjust temps via the firebox intake damper. If you close off the exhaust stack you are stifling draft which fosters the formation of creosote. You NEED the flow of gases across the meat to cook the protein.

You should be able to essentially shut the fire off by closing the intake damper all the way. If you can close it all the way and the fire stays hot, you've got an air leak somewhere. Find it, or you won't ever be able to manage chamber temps.

 

[jd4666]

I use the Firebox grill quite often, works really well even though it's not that big.  I will sometimes use this part to sear chicken right before eating.  Sunday it used only the FB grate to grill up some Beef Tenderloins, turned out great.  The manual says you can use the main cooking area for grilling also by putting coals in the lower grates.  I have avoided that for now not wanting any ash in my smoking chamber.

put foil down in the bottom it cleans up easy i did 12 ribeyes on mine.

 

[piaconis]

Well, it's not as good as I had hoped. I have some temp problems. I'm at about 265° on the right & 185° on the left. Should I move my rib racks around? The probe on the right is not over my makeshift convection plate, a cookie sheet wired to the top right grate. So I think it's reading a bit higher than what the actual temp that the ribs are at.
You can see it in the pic

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• badjackson
• Jun 21, 2015

Not sure if you figured this out yet, but the right side gets MUCH hotter within 4" to 6" of the firewall.  If you stay off of that right edge, it's usually pretty close all the way across, and you can use the edge to finish off glazes and get a little extra caramelization on the meat on certain smokes (good for glazing chicken at the end of a smoke).

 

[tufunuf]

Just out of curiousity, since you mentioned that you have a temp gauge on the fire box. What is the highest temperature you have seen at that point?

 

[remmy700p]

 
Just out of curiousity, since you mentioned that you have a temp gauge on the fire box. What is the highest temperature you have seen at that point?

I've hit the FB outside top with a digital laser thermo during the middle of a cook (cook chamber was holding at ~280F) and registered temps just shy of 700F.

 

[tufunuf]

Hey, I appreciate your response. I have been wondering how hot it gets. I had looked all through the posts but did not see it. That pretty well tells me that my 650 degree red rtv might not withstand the temperatures if I place it between the smoke chamber and the firebox, and between the halves on the firebox. 

 

[remmy700p]

 
Hey, I appreciate your response. I have been wondering how hot it gets. I had looked all through the posts but did not see it. That pretty well tells me that my 650 degree red rtv might not withstand the temperatures if I place it between the smoke chamber and the firebox, and between the halves on the firebox. 

The temp drops precipitously as you move the thermo reading down the sides of the FB. By the midpoint (where the two halves join), it's probably closer to the low 600F range.

 

[tufunuf]

Ok. Thanks again for the information.

 

[smokey whaler]

Smoked some baby back ribs today! Took about 4hrs. I made some adjustments to the smoker to get the temp higher, was having a tough time getting it to 275 and I was using a lot of charcoal and wood. Today was a good day the pit got to 275 and beyond and could regulate the temp very easily with a minimal amount of wood and charcoal way more efficient

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• smokey whaler
• Jul 26, 2015

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• smokey whaler
• Jul 26, 2015

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• smokey whaler
• Jul 26, 2015

 

[workedtheworld]

I used the red rtv on my similar smoker on the smoking chamber lid and the firebox too.  I put it on the inside of the doors, not the body.  Here's my thinking.  The doors are looking at the outside air and are going to be less hot than the air inside.  I am hoping this brings the rtv actual temperature to under it's maximum rating.  So far, it has sealed super well and has darkened a little on the firebox, but it still firm and pliable.  It looks like it is going to work well.  I have used it 5 times so far with good results. 

BTW, after thinking about it, I used the regular Permatex red rtw rather than the food grade.  The rtw in only on the inside of the doors, and should never touch the food.  Any air flow will be from inside to the outside to carry away any fumes or decomposition products.  Curing will lose any solvents used, especially after a couple of uses.  I suspect both grades are the same product, but that the food grade comes from equipment that has to be inspected and cleaned out every night and handled as a food product.  It is probably certified to feed to babies and to eat.  Let me know if I am wrong.  Thanks. 

 

[tufunuf]

Thanks for the information. I think you are probably right on your assumption. In fact, I am going to do the same with mine. I think it will hold up well.

Thanks again.

 

[tufunuf]

Have you had any leakage on the ends of the smoke chamber? Right at the top of the smoke chamber where the end caps come over the chamber I am leaking smoke. But, the worst place that I am losing smoke is where the smoke chamber and the fire box meet. I need to seal that area soon. I imagine I will have to use a pretty high temp (something) to seal at that point.

 

[workedtheworld]

Tuf, I have had a little leakage at the ends.  I first sealed all the 4 edges of the smoking and fire chambers with JB Weld, which is rated for 550ºF.  I think the door metal runs cooler than the body.  I have not had any problem anywhere with it in 1.5 years and many uses.  I did notice that the smoker door warped open a little when it heated up, and that is when I decided to use the Permatex red rtw. 

Are your firebox and smoker chamber bolted together?  I would think so.  I got a roll of Nomex (I think is the name) gasket that looks like fiberglass.  It is 1/8" thick and 1" wide.  It is for grills, the Big Green Egg, and others.  I would suggest taking the two smoker pieces apart, making a flat rim of gasket around the opening between the fire and smoker (it does have a self adhesive side to hold it), and bolting them back together.  With the bolts, the gasket is not going anywhere, and it should completely fill any gaps as long as the gasket pieces don't have any gaps. 

I used the same gasket material on the inside of the air vent.  The self-stick came off and I re did using the Permatex.  This is working fine so far. 

 

[sgtd]

HomeDepot

 

[tufunuf]

I hadn't thought about JB Weld. Seems like it would work. I may give it a try. Yes they are bolted together. I looked at the Nomex and that is what I am planning to do where the two meet. I like the size that you mentioned. I had already used that around  the smokestack Thanks for the information.