Boat rebuild

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Yep, that old foam will get waterlogged over time and really weigh a boat down. Another option you have now while you've got it torn apart is you can change the layout if there's something you may want such as the size of those rod/storage boxes. You could change the size or remove them if that's something you've ever thought about. I've got a good buddy who took an old 23' Starcraft that had dual consoles with a walk-through windshield and ripped it apart down to the hull. Rebuilt it as a center console with the console forward to create a bigger fishing area at the back, Added an Armstrong bracket to get his new Suzuki 300 farther back. Replaced the wooden floors with aluminum and added a bunch of storage in the floor and under the gunnels. And of course the transom was rotted, as well, and was replaced. Now he has a wood-free boat...
I did something similar with my last build. It was a 22' Bluefin with a center console that I tore out and made up dual consoles and a walk through windshield! LOL, just the opposite of your buddy!
I did not go the aluminum floor route though. It was rather pricey and at the time I couldnt figure a way to not cook us all on hot sunny days!
 
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Gilligan's in too! :emoji_blush:

Ryan
 
Boring stuff, but necessary. Epoxy (really heavy where the voids were) plus dammed up on the transom edges multiple times. When I did the transom, every hole was drilled twice the original size and filled with epoxy. So if it was a .250 hoke, I drilled it out to .500. That way, I can still drill though the size I need and even though I seal it, the water doesn't stand a chance of soaking through somewhere.
The other pics are of some paint schemes
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Hatches
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First coat
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Test panel
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Transom edges sealing
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Porch paint
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Ext paint

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Trial run but I hated, so sanded down a repainted like the last Pic of previous post
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Way too dark. Getting the stencil right on a inverted surface sucked. More to come when I get a chance!
 
Late to this but have been watching.
CRS finally faded (a bit) and there is a place in Fargo ND that makes polyurethane deck and transom boards for boats. 100% water impervious without any further treatment.
Pretty good for a company that started out making pig (stuff) resistant panels. Amazing how high pigs can deposit their ... stuff
 
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So I'm not sure where I left off here, so I'm just going to
 

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Please disregard previous post. It did not go through as intended and 90% of it did not post. Not sure what I did wrong and I don't know how to delete a post.
 
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So this was a ¼" aluminum plate that i cut a section out to reinforce where a pedestal seat will be. The original had ¼ 20 t nuts in the wood, but I felt this would be stronger.
Also did something similar up on the casting deck with some aluminum i had laying around.
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Oh and I finally got the noods i asked for.........
55 3" and 21 4" closed cellpool noodles . I use to have a formula for the buoyancy to help determine how much you might need to to keep afloat, but I just bought whatever I could find left from summer stuck them everywhere! Not tight, but nice and full!
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Transom is installed, with most of everything that ties together. Caps and covers in, all through bolts and screws sealed in 3m 5200. ( which is white and will need painted over)
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Looking good. 5200 ain't no joke. If you want something permanently glued/sealed, that's the stuff...
For sure! Ive dealt with a lot sealants and caulking over the years being a glazier for almost 20 years. Tremco Dymonic was great ( we literally called it liquid tapcons) but I would be concerned with it below the waterline for extended periods of time. Same with Dow CWS, great stuff and have used it on other boat projects ( just not exposed to below the waterline) the other stuff Ive used that is below the waterline and has been doing a great job for the better part of 2 decades is essex urathane. The stuff used for installing windshields! Still holding strong so far! But 5200 is a beast and marine grade! At $20 a tube it should be too!
 
But 5200 is a beast and marine grade!
On my last boat, I installed a thru-hull transducer and used 5200. The transducer failed after about 6 months and Airmar sent me a new one. Then came the problem, I caught the devil trying to remove the bad one without tearing up the bottom of my boat. I used copious amounts of DeBond, a razor blade, and piano wire. Finally got enough room between the hull and the ducer to get the wire in, work it around, and was able to remove it. Only took me 2 days...🤣 Installed the new one with 4200...
 
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