Boat rebuild

  • Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase. Let me know if you have any questions about this.
SMF is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Buckeyedude

Master of the Pit
Original poster
OTBS Member
★ Lifetime Premier ★
Aug 5, 2018
1,847
3,064
So I figured a few of you might enjoy this. I needed to upgrade the Ole 1987 bass tracker. There were some rotten spots on the seats, hatches etc and I'm sure the transom was due, so I tore her apart and started over! Been working on it when I have a moment or two. Removed all flooring, deck, hatches and transom. Then dug out the nasty water soaked foam they sprayed in at the factory. Been slowly making new parts, sealing them with epoxy and then porch paint. 2 coats of each minimum. Takes time to dry and cure, sand, mix up more and do it again, but I'm about done with it.
Will be adding pics and post as I go until it is done. Hope you guys like.
20240518_191054.jpg
20240518_191057.jpg

20240518_191107.jpg
20240715_120827.jpg
20240715_120832.jpg

20240805_151537.jpg
20240805_160646.jpg

20240809_143353.jpg

Laminated the transom together and weighed down with batteries and the Cub!
20240809_145240.jpg
20240809_163429.jpg
20240809_173739.jpg
20240809_184757.jpg

Will add more later, gotta football game to go to right now!
 
Nice work!!!
Forget about carpet, check out Hydro Turf, I have it in both of my aluminum boats, a 1754 ProDrive/ my skinny water mud boat, and a 17" Gregor/ deep water duck boats. It has been installed for almost 15 yrs, and the boats are uncovered all yr long, and Hydro Turf still looks good. The stuff is amazing, no more hot floors in the summer, or cold floors in the winter. It weights next to nothing, and is as nonslip as you can get. The one downside is it is a little pricey upfront, but as long as it's lasted, and as trouble free as it is, it will be installed in every boat I own for the rest of my life, I can't say enough about the stuff.

Buy the sheets of seconds, which are normally gray diamond pattern.
Don't buy the pre glued stuff. Buy a few cans of 3M Super 90 and glue it yourself. The Hydro Turf is super easy to install, it cuts like butter with a razor knife. If you decide to go that route, be sure to keep the rolls in the house, until you install it, and install it in the morning or on a cool day, the stuff expands and grows SUPER easy until it's glued down. Trust me on this, as a test cut a small strip off a sheet, leave one in the house, the other lay in the sun for 15 minutes and compare them, it's crazy how much it grows.

If you decide to go this route, get in touch with me before installation, There are a few tricks I learned working with the stuff on six different boats, my two and four friends. Installation is a breeze, but there are a few tips I can offer you.

#1 Being, have an extra pair of hands to help you.

#2 Spray the super 90 in a pattern like this #, one coat up and down, one coat side to side.

#3 Overlap the seams by an inch or two, then lay a straightedge over the seam and cut it with a razor knife, that way the seams will line up perfectly.

#4 INSTALL ON A COOL DAY, IN THE SHADE, OR THE STUFF WILL EXPAND.


#5 Make sure you lay the sheets where you want them, the super 90 is spray contact cement, once they glue surfaces touch each other, there is no pulling them apart. (I found this out the hard way).

#6 Make sure to have a few boards and weights to put pressure on the edges and seams, and leave them on overnight.
(I used scrap lumber and bricks, and large rocks).

I'm telling you the stuff is awesome, it doesn't get hot or cold, and the traction in like no other, you'll love it, if it gets dirty, hose it off, and you're good to go.


Good luck.
Dan.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Buckeyedude
I got OCD when rebuilding the transom and floors of my Gregor, I rolled Coppergreen on all the wood surfaces, before coating them with fiberglass resin.

It's paid off, though, the wood is still in great shape 20 yrs later.

I eliminated all the spray in foam, and filled the voids with empty 1 Qt "capped"oil bottles, and 1 gallon oil bottles, for flotation.

And I also ran extra wires in case one ever went bad, I wouldn't have to pull up the floor to replace them.

I also moved the batteries and fuel cell to the bow, which is awesome if you run the boat by yourself a lot, and don't have power trim.

Like I said, I went OCD on it.

Now is the time to think about, and do things, right? Like caulking the wood to aluminum joints, like around your bow deck. Everything you do to keep water off that end grain is a bonus, even if it's already sealed. In my opinion, nows the time to over think things, while it's all exposed.

Have fun with your project, it all looks great so far.
Dan. :emoji_thumbsup:
 
Last edited:
Coming along nicely! In for the finish. My brother and I completely rebuilt a 17' Olympic years ago. What a project but it was very rewarding when done.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Buckeyedude
Nice! I have done numerous boat rebuilds....I like the tea can in the well.....sliced up! LOL!! describes that boat interior perfectly! I'm along for the ride to see how she looks when finished.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Buckeyedude
Now is the time to think about, and do things, right? Like caulking the wood to aluminum joints, like around your bow deck. Everything you do to keep water off that end grain is a bonus, even if it's already sealed. In my opinion, nows the time to over think things, while it's all exposed.
Absolutely!

This can be applied to any type of remodeling or new construction.
 
I love projects like this and you've got some solid advice so far. I'm in for the ride. One question, is that hull riveted or welded? If it's riveted, now would be a good time to replace any that leak...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Buckeyedude
Whew! That's some work right there. I gutted and rebuilt a 2150 bayliner from transom to bow one summer. Toward the end I was almost wishing I had just went and bought a new boat. Bust Out Another Thousand. LoL
 
Nice work!!!
Forget about carpet, check out Hydro Turf, I have it in both of my aluminum boats, a 1754 ProDrive/ my skinny water mud boat, and a 17" Gregor/ deep water duck boats. It has been installed for almost 15 yrs, and the boats are uncovered all yr long, and Hydro Turf still looks good. The stuff is amazing, no more hot floors in the summer, or cold floors in the winter. It weights next to nothing, and is as nonslip as you can get. The one downside is it is a little pricey upfront, but as long as it's lasted, and as trouble free as it is, it will be installed in every boat I own for the rest of my life, I can't say enough about the stuff.

Buy the sheets of seconds, which are normally gray diamond pattern.
Don't buy the pre glued stuff. Buy a few cans of 3M Super 90 and glue it yourself. The Hydro Turf is super easy to install, it cuts like butter with a razor knife. If you decide to go that route, be sure to keep the rolls in the house, until you install it, and install it in the morning or on a cool day, the stuff expands and grows SUPER easy until it's glued down. Trust me on this, as a test cut a small strip off a sheet, leave one in the house, the other lay in the sun for 15 minutes and compare them, it's crazy how much it grows.

If you decide to go this route, get in touch with me before installation, There are a few tricks I learned working with the stuff on six different boats, my two and four friends. Installation is a breeze, but there are a few tips I can offer you.

#1 Being, have an extra pair of hands to help you.

#2 Spray the super 90 in a pattern like this #, one coat up and down, one coat side to side.

#3 Overlap the seams by an inch or two, then lay a straightedge over the seam and cut it with a razor knife, that way the seams will line up perfectly.

#4 INSTALL ON A COOL DAY, IN THE SHADE, OR THE STUFF WILL EXPAND.


#5 Make sure you lay the sheets where you want them, the super 90 is spray contact cement, once they glue surfaces touch each other, there is no pulling them apart. (I found this out the hard way).

#6 Make sure to have a few boards and weights to put pressure on the edges and seams, and leave them on overnight.
(I used scrap lumber and bricks, and large rocks).

I'm telling you the stuff is awesome, it doesn't get hot or cold, and the traction in like no other, you'll love it, if it gets dirty, hose it off, and you're good to go.


Good luck.
Dan.
That is some cool stuff, a guy at work put some in his rebuild! Im going with carpet though. My last rebuild on my Erie boat I used nautilex, Great stuff but yes it does get a little hot on those scorcher days! Thanks for the input, I greatly appreciate it!
I checked out their website and REALLY like their pre made hatches! A little pricey, but VERY cool! I thought about adding hatches to help with storage but the way this thing was designed, I didnt want to mess with any of the integrity on the casting deck.
 
  • Like
Reactions: forktender
I got OCD when rebuilding the transom and floors of my Gregor, I rolled Coppergreen on all the wood surfaces, before coating them with fiberglass resin.

It's paid off, though, the wood is still in great shape 20 yrs later.

I eliminated all the spray in foam, and filled the voids with empty 1 Qt "capped"oil bottles, and 1 gallon oil bottles, for flotation.

And I also ran extra wires in case one ever went bad, I wouldn't have to pull up the floor to replace them.

I also moved the batteries and fuel cell to the bow, which is awesome if you run the boat by yourself a lot, and don't have power trim.

Like I said, I went OCD on it.

Now is the time to think about, and do things, right? Like caulking the wood to aluminum joints, like around your bow deck. Everything you do to keep water off that end grain is a bonus, even if it's already sealed. In my opinion, nows the time to over think things, while it's all exposed.

Have fun with your project, it all looks great so far.
Dan. :emoji_thumbsup:
Ive used closed celled pool noodles in the past and plan to use them on this one for flotation. I use to have a formula for the amount of buoyancy per foot of the noodles, but that was like 12 years ago! I just fill it up and dont crowd it too tight now. I TOTALLY get the whole OCD thing! I went a little overboard on my last build! I cut everything about a 1/4" shy so I could dam up the edges and put a few coats of 3-1 epoxy on them and then a few coats of ext porch paint. The fuel line to the cell I moved up to the front was ran through chase so If/when it needed replaced it would be pretty easy and not have to pull a floor panel. On this one, I have some ideas to to hide a few batteries and the fuel tank if I downside the tank a little.
These old tin boats lasted almost 30 with bare wood transoms and floors, so I figure Ill be long gone before my grandchildren are remotely concerned with rot!
 
Coming along nicely! In for the finish. My brother and I completely rebuilt a 17' Olympic years ago. What a project but it was very rewarding when done.
Its fun, but it sucks.....kind of a love hate thing lol
 
  • Like
Reactions: Redicans
Nice! I have done numerous boat rebuilds....I like the tea can in the well.....sliced up! LOL!! describes that boat interior perfectly! I'm along for the ride to see how she looks when finished.
I think that can was from pulling my duck blind after season was over. Never hurts to have some back meds on board when horsing stuff around by your self!:emoji_wink:
 
  • Like
Reactions: forktender
I love projects like this and you've got some solid advice so far. I'm in for the ride. One question, is that hull riveted or welded? If it's riveted, now would be a good time to replace any that leak...
It is riveted, the boat has always been dry even with a full day on the water, but I plan on sealing the rivets before the flooring goes in. When I dug out all of the original foam, a lot of it was water logged. Hell, once I got the deck off and the foam dug out, it lightened the boat up so much that it raised off the trailer a few inches! Im guessing most of that is from rain water soaking in that old open cell foam, but plan on doing a test once the the transom is in and all the holes (I hate drilling holes in boats) are sealed.
I found a place in Xichigan that sells a great array of rivets when I did my last boat, so I have ordered plenty to be safe if need be!
 
Whew! That's some work right there. I gutted and rebuilt a 2150 bayliner from transom to bow one summer. Toward the end I was almost wishing I had just went and bought a new boat. Bust Out Another Thousand. LoL
That is A LOT of work! I dont think I would ever dive into a glass boat rebuild!
 
Whew! That's some work right there. I gutted and rebuilt a 2150 bayliner from transom to bow one summer. Toward the end I was almost wishing I had just went and bought a new boat. Bust Out Another Thousand. LoL
100%
 
Im guessing most of that is from rain water soaking in that old open cell foam,
Yep, that old foam will get waterlogged over time and really weigh a boat down. Another option you have now while you've got it torn apart is you can change the layout if there's something you may want such as the size of those rod/storage boxes. You could change the size or remove them if that's something you've ever thought about. I've got a good buddy who took an old 23' Starcraft that had dual consoles with a walk-through windshield and ripped it apart down to the hull. Rebuilt it as a center console with the console forward to create a bigger fishing area at the back, Added an Armstrong bracket to get his new Suzuki 300 farther back. Replaced the wooden floors with aluminum and added a bunch of storage in the floor and under the gunnels. And of course the transom was rotted, as well, and was replaced. Now he has a wood-free boat...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Buckeyedude
SmokingMeatForums.com is reader supported and as an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissions from qualifying purchases.

Latest posts

Hot Threads

Clicky