Backyard cooking area and smoker build.

[Starwise]

Hello everybody. I've been working on an extended multi-year project of remodeling our entire backyard. I've already shortened our deck and rebuilt it and then made a 16'x16' covered pergola with 12'x12' between the posts. Here's the picture what that looked like couple summers ago.

After that I cast 4' high and 5" thick concrete walls between the left posts and the back two posts. Following with base for the pizza oven and grill structure. Here's where I am at today with all that done.

The base for the pizza oven to the left is 36"x36" square. Grill area, once encased with firebrick, will be roughly 24"x36" and 8" deep. To the right the side table ended being 30"x30". Now I'm left with 36"x31" rectangle space for the smoker between the 5" walls. Here is a rough draft what I came up for it.

My plan was to cast two more 4" concrete shelves for the firebox and smoker above it. I have the full depth of about 28" available, but I'm starting to think that would make it too big. The walls of the firebox would be supported by two 3" concrete walls on both sides. Inside placin firebrick on the bottom and all four walls. With these dimensions the firebox would be somewhere around 15"x26"x17". To me that sounds large.

Smoker itself I'm planning to weld together by dual-layers of 1/8" steel sheet, sandwiching 1" of kaowool inside it for insulation. I won't make it the full depth of the allowed space as in the picture, more like 2.5' wide, 2' deep and 3' high. With some margins to adjust.

Here are my questions: How should I adjust the firebox size, if at all. Is it enough to have airflow through the front door, through adjustable baffles? I have two 5" voids on both sides available and can reroute air through them. How large entry should I make from the firebox into the smoker? I was planning to make 8" shelf on all sides for the smoker to sit on but should I make the entry in between more narrow? I was planning to place the water/drip pan couple inches up on stands right over the opening so heat and smoke will have to go around it. The smokestack will be placed at center in the top back corner.
And last, anything else that you guys would recommend changing in the design?

If anyone would like more detailed pics of the concrete castings, rebar work etc, please just ask and I'll see what I can find in the archives. I know my birdfeeder needs more engineering to it.

Keep the smoke on, Marko.

 

[gmc2003]

I'm of no help with your question, but I'm following along. That is some nice work right there.

Chris

 

[bertman]

Yeah, the problem with something like this is that you can never move!

Seriously, though, do you have a room to rent?

 

[JLeonard]

Great looking set up. Look forward to seeing the finish.
And we have a "anything goes" Throw down coming up. Slow smoked squirrel and dumplings would be a great entry.

Jim

 

[fxsales1959]

Hello everybody. I've been working on an extended multi-year project of remodeling our entire backyard. I've already shortened our deck and rebuilt it and then made a 16'x16' covered pergola with 12'x12' between the posts. Here's the picture what that looked like couple summers ago.

View attachment 672493

After that I cast 4' high and 5" thick concrete walls between the left posts and the back two posts. Following with base for the pizza oven and grill structure. Here's where I am at today with all that done.

View attachment 672494

The base for the pizza oven to the left is 36"x36" square. Grill area, once encased with firebrick, will be roughly 24"x36" and 8" deep. To the right the side table ended being 30"x30". Now I'm left with 36"x31" rectangle space for the smoker between the 5" walls. Here is a rough draft what I came up for it.

View attachment 672495

My plan was to cast two more 4" concrete shelves for the firebox and smoker above it. I have the full depth of about 28" available, but I'm starting to think that would make it too big. The walls of the firebox would be supported by two 3" concrete walls on both sides. Inside placin firebrick on the bottom and all four walls. With these dimensions the firebox would be somewhere around 15"x26"x17". To me that sounds large.

Smoker itself I'm planning to weld together by dual-layers of 1/8" steel sheet, sandwiching 1" of kaowool inside it for insulation. I won't make it the full depth of the allowed space as in the picture, more like 2.5' wide, 2' deep and 3' high. With some margins to adjust.

Here are my questions: How should I adjust the firebox size, if at all. Is it enough to have airflow through the front door, through adjustable baffles? I have two 5" voids on both sides available and can reroute air through them. How large entry should I make from the firebox into the smoker? I was planning to make 8" shelf on all sides for the smoker to sit on but should I make the entry in between more narrow? I was planning to place the water/drip pan couple inches up on stands right over the opening so heat and smoke will have to go around it. The smokestack will be placed at center in the top back corner.
And last, anything else that you guys would recommend changing in the design?

If anyone would like more detailed pics of the concrete castings, rebar work etc, please just ask and I'll see what I can find in the archives. I know my birdfeeder needs more engineering to it.
View attachment 672500


Keep the smoke on, Marko.

holy shit. thats Guy Fieri level upgrade. good on ya

 

[Buckeyedude]

Following for sure! That is some nice concrete work! Post up more pics of the forming and rebar work if you get a chance! Im sure many of us would enjoy to see it!

 

[02ebz06]

Yeah, the problem with something like this is that you can never move!

Well, you can move, but can be very sad about it.

 

[Starwise]

Thanks for comments, appreciate it. Definitely not planning to be moving anytime soon. The base structure is just 3.5" thick slab, supported by 2x4's. Then columns cast over them.

Both walls have the same rebar work in them, casting done with regular off-the shelf 3/4" plywood supported with pallets. All the rebar is welded together into a solid grid.

 

[Starwise]

For the oven structure, I went definitely overboard in the engineering department. But since I don't know how much it will weigh when complete, safer that way. And that's the only way I know how to build things. The bottom supported by plenty of 2x6 legs. The inside has extra support by the angled corner. Welding all that together took a while.

Then just pour the sauce in and let it set. The piece of 4x4 you see sticking up is for an ash chute so I can brush ashes from the back of the oven into it.

 

[Starwise]

For the grill, it was a 2-phase casting. The legs are again 5" thick and the bottom itself is 4". After that was cured, I built the supporting box inside for the surrounding 3" walls for the grill and the side table. The three 2x6" airways got welded to the supporting rebar then too.

I left the bottom supports on for an extra day for curing before wrestling them out.

Inside of the grill came pretty clean. The round piece of pipe is for if I ever want to add gas line and use propane in it too.

 

[Starwise]

Now, back to my question on the smoker build. I am mostly concerned if the firebox is within a reason and will function well. I will add an ash pan underneath the concrete shelf, so that adds an extra airway I can control.

 

[netspyder]

i think that size should be fine. the firebox on my offset is 20" diameter and 20" long. i think you'll want some sort of damper on those vents, though. if you put the water pan directly above the fire you're going to burn through pans... might think about a deflector a couple inches below the water pan. another idea that popped into my brain is that you may need a couple drain holes for that firebox... for cleaning, and in case of monsoons.

gotta say, though, you have some mad concrete skills. i plan to build a brick offset later this year with reclaimed brick from my chimney and fully expect that to be a hot mess - being my first try at masonry. don't forget a smokestack - super important.

 

[Starwise]

i think you'll want some sort of damper on those vents, though. if you put the water pan directly above the fire you're going to burn through pans... might think about a deflector a couple inches below the water pan. another idea that popped into my brain is that you may need a couple drain holes for that firebox...

Thanks netspyder, similar thoughts already occurred to me after I posted that. I will make a sizable hole to the bottom and add a pan for ashes and easier cleaning. Drainage is less of a worry unless we get a nasty sideways storm blowing through and being in the middle of trees provides a lot of coverage for that.
I like the idea of dampeners and deflector shielding under the water pan. All I need for an excuse to go visit the welding store for some steel stock to fabricate with. I already have a shopping list for the sheet metal I'll make dampeners from.

 

[Starwise]

It's been busy couple weekends. I managed to complete the superstructure and am pretty happy with the results. Making a slight change to the bottom design too. Instead of the lower shelf across the span, I made a solid 8" base and then 4" deep space for ash collection tray above that. Then rebar and opening sectioned on the 3" thick slab.

The upright walls are 3" thick and the top 4" thick, connecting the grill and bottom of the oven base together into one solid piece.

I will line the firebox with fire brick on the bottom and all sides, all the way to the top. With the dimensions literally cast in cement, I can start designing the baffle structure and what kind of door I'll come up with. I also have not yet decided what to do with the 6" cavities on both sides. One option is to use them to store firewood, just the same as the bottom of the oven base will most likely be used for. If not that, I might just block them with some plywood and cover that with whatever we will use for facing the surfaces.
I do have one note of recommendation if anyone ever plans doing similar work with concrete. Spend enough time making your supports and molds as well made as you possibly can. Tight fit and there is never too much supports behind to keep wet concrete contained. And as importantly, make them easily collapsing once supports are removed. Even plywood will expand and binds extremely tight when wedged between two opposing surfaces. I made few mistakes where I used screws when a brad nail or long staple would have been enough. Having to wrestle the screws through the plywood with a pry-bar is not fun when there is very limited clearance to move or reach into.

 

[netspyder]

i have a question... occurred to me while i was flipping back through the thread. how did you get the 4x4 out of the cast?

good call on the ash tray. this is looking great! you could us those cubbies for grate storage - i seldom use all of the grates on my smoker, and it'd be nice to have somewhere to stash them when not in use. also you could have a pretty good wasp farm in there too.

 

[Starwise]

Getting the 4x4 block out was pretty easy. I used long 1" auger bit to drill couple holes through it and then with a chisel broke the remaining part into chucks that pulled right out. In truth I had left it in place for well over two or three weeks so the wood had dried up completely from all of the moisture. The free overhang on the back is 11" and even if it's structurally sound and doesn't need any support, I will make few angled bars for visual purposes.

 

[Buckeyedude]

Thanks for comments, appreciate it. Definitely not planning to be moving anytime soon. The base structure is just 3.5" thick slab, supported by 2x4's. Then columns cast over them.View attachment 672577View attachment 672578

Both walls have the same rebar work in them, casting done with regular off-the shelf 3/4" plywood supported with pallets. All the rebar is welded together into a solid grid.

View attachment 672579View attachment 672581View attachment 672580View attachment 672582View attachment 672583
View attachment 672584

Nice! I really like that you took the time to weld the rebar and not just tie it!

 

[jnh2022]

Hello everybody. I've been working on an extended multi-year project of remodeling our entire backyard. I've already shortened our deck and rebuilt it and then made a 16'x16' covered pergola with 12'x12' between the posts. Here's the picture what that looked like couple summers ago.

View attachment 672493

After that I cast 4' high and 5" thick concrete walls between the left posts and the back two posts. Following with base for the pizza oven and grill structure. Here's where I am at today with all that done.

View attachment 672494

The base for the pizza oven to the left is 36"x36" square. Grill area, once encased with firebrick, will be roughly 24"x36" and 8" deep. To the right the side table ended being 30"x30". Now I'm left with 36"x31" rectangle space for the smoker between the 5" walls. Here is a rough draft what I came up for it.

View attachment 672495

My plan was to cast two more 4" concrete shelves for the firebox and smoker above it. I have the full depth of about 28" available, but I'm starting to think that would make it too big. The walls of the firebox would be supported by two 3" concrete walls on both sides. Inside placin firebrick on the bottom and all four walls. With these dimensions the firebox would be somewhere around 15"x26"x17". To me that sounds large.

Smoker itself I'm planning to weld together by dual-layers of 1/8" steel sheet, sandwiching 1" of kaowool inside it for insulation. I won't make it the full depth of the allowed space as in the picture, more like 2.5' wide, 2' deep and 3' high. With some margins to adjust.

Here are my questions: How should I adjust the firebox size, if at all. Is it enough to have airflow through the front door, through adjustable baffles? I have two 5" voids on both sides available and can reroute air through them. How large entry should I make from the firebox into the smoker? I was planning to make 8" shelf on all sides for the smoker to sit on but should I make the entry in between more narrow? I was planning to place the water/drip pan couple inches up on stands right over the opening so heat and smoke will have to go around it. The smokestack will be placed at center in the top back corner.
And last, anything else that you guys would recommend changing in the design?

If anyone would like more detailed pics of the concrete castings, rebar work etc, please just ask and I'll see what I can find in the archives. I know my birdfeeder needs more engineering to it.
View attachment 672500


Keep the smoke on, Marko.

thanks for the build pics... much more thorough than many that I have seen. I have a couple of questions about the roofing. Is that a simple Coroplast type of material or something different? Do you have much for snowload in your area.... I didn't see where this was from? Just trying to figure some stuff out for reality as to where I am from (beautiful British Columbia!)

 

[Starwise]

I have a couple of questions about the roofing. Is that a simple Coroplast type of material or something different? Do you have much for snowload in your area.... I didn't see where this was from?

Hello jnh2022. The roofing is Suntuf-brand clear polycarbonate panels, sold by our local Homedepot. It has UV filtering and good load bearing ability, the spacing between the trusses is 24" and the support purlins was about 26" if I recall it right. It is plenty to hold 6" of wet snow over the panels without any worry. We're located in Seattle area, so snow does happen.

I forgot to mention the lumber dimensions so might as well list it here. Everything is rough-sawn Alaskan Yellow Cedar. I have not treated it in any way, I'm waiting few years for it to get the natural grayish hue. After that I might put a light coat of clear Defy or something on it, depending how it looks after weathering. Posts, King posts and angled supports are all 6x6 and beams over them 6x8. Ridge beam is 4x6 and trusses 2x6. Purlins are 2x2 and overhang supports are tapered so that supporting end is 2x4 and narrows to 2x2 end. Trusses are fastened with total 8 6" screws each.

 

[Starwise]

As they say, time flies. Whether you're having too much fun or just working on a chore-list of miles long. And, life always seems to be getting the way of having too much fun. But, I finally got back to this build, after some shenanigans.

I shopped around all the local steel supply stores and ended buying two full 4x8' sheets of 16 gauge mild steel. That is 1/16" thickness pretty close. The setback was more when I asked pricing on local sheet metal fabricators and their rates was around $120/hr. So, calculating the materials etc., I made my own sheet bending brake. That took a while after researching all the examples I could find. Most people make theirs upwards bending but due to the forces required with 16 gauge steel, 36" long, I made mine downwards bend. Also, I can only made straight angle (90º). But here it is, ready for the first bend:

Well, the first one didn't go too bad. It actually bent very smoothly. The outer wall was done quickly.

Two bends for the inside wall, and we have the main form done. Outside dimensions are 30"x30"x36"(h). Inside 1" less all sides. I am waiting for ceramic insulation to arrive, I will fill the wall cavity with that. For the shelf supports, I'm going to use just 3/4" or 1" angle bar welded directly to the inside walls.

Question to the fabricators and welders. What would be the best way to make the hollow walls more rigid? I was first thinking of welding on 1" rods to the inner side of the outer wall, drilling an access hole to the inside wall and then welding the hole and the rod sticking through. Another option would be placing few horizontal and vertical 'slats', welded the same way. I'm not looking too much for load baring, just making the walls not flexing at all.