Air-Dried Boneless Spalla

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geostriata

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May 18, 2021
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Inspired by indaswamp indaswamp beautiful Spalla Cruda, I decided to take my first venture into Salumi on a cheap cut of $8 meat. It won't be as good as a heritage pig, but as long as it's not awful, I'll call that a win. Maybe after that, I can graduate to fancy meat. Fingers crossed!

My steps were from Ruhlman's Salumi book, on Air-Dried Boned Spalla. In short:
  1. Remove bone
  2. Use "salt box" method to evenly apply salt and cracked peppercorns. Bag in fridge until (weightlbs/2)-1 days has passed (one day for every 2lbs). This this is 4lbs, this just means 1 day for me.
  3. Remove from bag, weigh, use "salt box" method to evenly again. Bag in fridge until (weightlbs/2)-1 days again.
  4. Remove from bag, rinse, optionally rub with wine. Weight
  5. Hang in drying chamber 4-6months.
Here it goes...

1721797234163.png


Yes, for the next 4-6 months (hopefully) this cheap $8 of meat will be my training wheels for Salumi. I will care for it greatly.

1721797324139.png


After roasting some peppercorns, and cracked them in a mortar and pestly, I deboned the shoulder. This was such a small piece, there was hardly a bone in it.

1721797388343.png


Ruhlman's "Salt Box" method isn't really much of a method, it seems. Chuck the meat in a tray of salt and rub it all over.

1721797443709.png


This is my only deviation from Ruhlman's recipe. He didn't say to truss up the piece of shoulder. It felt wrong to not tighten things up, so that's exactly what I did. When I watched the Spalla Cruda video from indaswamp indaswamp 's thread, I was blown away with how well he tied up the meat. So I learned that it was called a "butchers" knot and learned how to do it. I got to finally use the butcher's knot, which I just think is so neat :)

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I then vacuum bagged it loosely (only 10 secs in my chamber vac), so there's a little space to move.

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Into the fridge for a day!

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After 1 day, weighted in fridge.

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Removed from bag. 3.4% weight loss so far! 26.6% more to go.

1721797991590.png


Re-salted one more time. Loosely bagged, and then weighted down for one more day.

1721798116683.png


After pulling out of bag on final day and rinsing.

1721798160176.png


I then brushed the surface with a little malt vinegar (since I didn't have wine) and this is how it looks. Weight at this point was 3.745lb, so 6.3% weight loss after two days, and 23.7% remaining.

1721798261306.png


I then put a hook in it and hung it in drying chamber at 70-75% RH / 52F.

Now I wait 4-6 months and cross my fingers! We'll see! :)
 
Inspired by indaswamp indaswamp beautiful Spalla Cruda, I decided to take my first venture into Salumi on a cheap cut of $8 meat. It won't be as good as a heritage pig, but as long as it's not awful, I'll call that a win. Maybe after that, I can graduate to fancy meat. Fingers crossed!

My steps were from Ruhlman's Salumi book, on Air-Dried Boned Spalla. In short:
  1. Remove bone
  2. Use "salt box" method to evenly apply salt and cracked peppercorns. Bag in fridge until (weightlbs/2)-1 days has passed (one day for every 2lbs). This this is 4lbs, this just means 1 day for me.
  3. Remove from bag, weigh, use "salt box" method to evenly again. Bag in fridge until (weightlbs/2)-1 days again.
  4. Remove from bag, rinse, optionally rub with wine. Weight
  5. Hang in drying chamber 4-6months.
Here it goes...

View attachment 701080

Yes, for the next 4-6 months (hopefully) this cheap $8 of meat will be my training wheels for Salumi. I will care for it greatly.

View attachment 701081

After roasting some peppercorns, and cracked them in a mortar and pestly, I deboned the shoulder. This was such a small piece, there was hardly a bone in it.

View attachment 701082

Ruhlman's "Salt Box" method isn't really much of a method, it seems. Chuck the meat in a tray of salt and rub it all over.

View attachment 701083

This is my only deviation from Ruhlman's recipe. He didn't say to truss up the piece of shoulder. It felt wrong to not tighten things up, so that's exactly what I did. When I watched the Spalla Cruda video from indaswamp indaswamp 's thread, I was blown away with how well he tied up the meat. So I learned that it was called a "butchers" knot and learned how to do it. I got to finally use the butcher's knot, which I just think is so neat :)

View attachment 701084

I then vacuum bagged it loosely (only 10 secs in my chamber vac), so there's a little space to move.

View attachment 701085

Into the fridge for a day!

View attachment 701087

After 1 day, weighted in fridge.

View attachment 701086

Removed from bag. 3.4% weight loss so far! 26.6% more to go.

View attachment 701088

Re-salted one more time. Loosely bagged, and then weighted down for one more day.

View attachment 701090

After pulling out of bag on final day and rinsing.

View attachment 701091

I then brushed the surface with a little malt vinegar (since I didn't have wine) and this is how it looks. Weight at this point was 3.745lb, so 6.3% weight loss after two days, and 23.7% remaining.

View attachment 701092

I then put a hook in it and hung it in drying chamber at 70-75% RH / 52F.

Now I wait 4-6 months and cross my fingers! We'll see! :)
Good pics and thread, thx!
 
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I'm hoping it dries properly for you. One of the main functions of the casing and binding is to force the the shape of the piece to have a smooth surface for even drying with no depressions, folds, or voids. Areas like that will create high humidity/ low oxygen zones on the surface which become favorable for bad stuff to grow. I do not recommend skipping this step. It is important. The binding also physically forces fluid out of the piece during the critical dripping phase at the start of drying.
 
One of the main functions of the casing and binding is to force the the shape of the piece to have a smooth surface for even drying with no depressions, folds, or voids. Areas like that will create high humidity/ low oxygen zones on the surface which become favorable for bad stuff to grow. I do not recommend skipping this step. It is important.
That's so weird that Ruhlman didn't even mention binding! An oversight on his part.

You think I should go back and bind it tighter and more thoroughly? I do have some folds/depresions on that... Since Ruhlman didn't even mention this, I just did a somewhat quick/informal binding with only two lines on each axis.

I could trim the loose bits, bind very tightly/thoroughly (maybe 5 lines per axis), and do one more round of salting in the fridge over weights (to compensate for any surface meat I remove)...

The binding also physically forces fluid out of the piece during the critical dripping phase at the start of drying.
I do think at least, the weights in the fridge for two days helped with this part. I've lost about 6% of weight already and there's no dripping going on at this point.
 
I'm far from a master... more like a semi-amatuer beginner, but I agree. He's a writer more than anything.
I ordered the Salumi book because I liked his explanations and diagrams in his Charcuterie book. His technique for bacon also worked out well for me. So I was pretty pleased with his results...

However, I do recall waaay back trying a recipe of his for smoked salmon and not being that impressed. He's light on the details, I feel. Mariansky, on the other hand is no contest. I'll take a dissertation on the science of drying with recommended air velocities over poetic cooking prose any day of the week :)
 
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Oh, I didn't know Mariansky had a Salumi book (otherwise I would've ordered it). Just ordered his Practical Salami book.
Hmm, actually I'm having difficulty finding something from Mariansky on the topic. I figured the Salami book would go into Salumi in general a bit, but it does seems to be focused on Salami.

There's mention of the commercial process in "Home Production" but nothing about Spallas it seems...
 
Hmm, actually I'm having difficulty finding something from Mariansky on the topic. I figured the Salami book would go into Salumi in general a bit, but it does seems to be focused on Salami.

There's mention of the commercial process in "Home Production" but nothing about Spallas it seems...
You will not find and book written that I am aware of that specifically details the production of Spalla Cruda. It is a very, very limited Salumi in production. The Consortium of Culatello have only very recently formed the regulations governing the production of Spalla Cruda for D.O.P. protection status. This was done to keep the production from falling into obscurity.

I learned from hours and hours of research online, mostly on Italian sites using translation apps......
 
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"Just a few years ago - observed Angela Fornia, former Mayor of Sissa, a town to which the Consortium of the Raw Shoulder of Palasone belongs - the pieces of Cruda Shoulder were counted on the fingers of One hand; today a few thousand are produced, but still not enough to meet all the requests that come to us.
 
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It is the technical principles of how to dry cure salumi you should focus on, not a cookie cutter recipe for various salumi products.
Yeah, that's what I'm after. Looking for a replacement for the 'Ruhlman' book. I was trying to learn the technique and technical principles Italian-style involving pork shoulder -- 'Spalla' was shorthand for that. Nothing from Mariansky on the topic.

I've found https://tasteofartisan.com/homemade-culatello/, but I wanted to try to find something a bit more authentic to study (the use of cure #2 has me suspect). This one looks pretty good: https://gastrochemist.com/culatello/...
 
Italians use 3.25% salt. Black pepper varies according to taste. 75~80% of the salt is applied to the exposed lean areas, remaining is applied to the fat layer. The salt is allowed to pull fluid out and off the piece as it penetrates, running off not to be reabsorbed along with about 0.5% of the salt dissolved in solution. This is the main difference from an EQ cure where all the applied salt must be reabsorbed...along with the fluid.
 
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Despite the nooks and crevices, the Ruhlman-recipe seems to be doing OK so far!

1722639389166.png


I've got a looooong way to go (~165 more days at least), but it is looking promising in the early days at least :)

I also got a humidity/temp logger in the chamber, and fortunately there isn't any stratification in the middle. Just the very top of the chamber and the very bottom. If I place my meat in the center, I think I shouldn't have to flip it.
 
My chamber does the same...matter of fact- all chambers will do this. It will be slightly colder at the bottom, and slightly warmer at the top. This difference in temperature is the reason for the slightly lower RH% at the top, and slightly higher RH% at the bottom.

I run my chamber @ 54.5*F; 80%RH in the middle. It will be 56*F; 78%RH at the top, and 52.5*F; 85% RH near the bottom....even with near perfect airflow.
 
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My chamber does the same...matter of fact- all chambers will do this. It will be slightly colder at the bottom, and slightly warmer at the top. This difference in temperature is the reason for the slightly lower RH% at the top, and slightly higher RH% at the bottom.

I run my chamber @ 54.5*F; 80%RH in the middle. It will be 56*F; 78%RH at the top, and 52.5*F; 85% RH near the bottom....even with near perfect airflow.
Yeah, with a freezer, the difference is so much more drastic. I'm at 58F at the top, 46F at the bottom, but for about a foot in the middle (i.e., bottom of meat to top of meat), the temperature gradient is only a difference of 2.2F. You think that's significant enough for me to need to flip it anyways?

1722723794920.png


I was thinking of some way to insulate the bottom to make the cooling more gradual... Freezer is set to minimum...

In any case, once I got the humidity/temp logger, I was comforted to an extent that my temp swings weren't that large. I really love this logger.

1722723987678.png


My humidity swings, on the other hand, are much more pronounced. I figure if it averages to around 79, it should be good. I think I'll consider using two dehumidifiers. A small one and a big one, and program the big one to only take it down to 82 or so (e.g., when I open the door or add meat). Then get the small one to take it to 79. This should lower the swings somewhat. That being said, it does seem to be working OK so far...
 
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