Starting first build using 1/4 pipe 20' BY 48" How big would you cut door and where to position door.What dimensions for square firebox would you recomend.I was going to cut round holes for intake what size and how many thanks.
New guy first build
- Thread starter bishgeo
- Start date
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lendecatural
Smoking Fanatic
Welcome bishgeo,
Here is the link to the pit calculator, it will give you numbers for firebox volume based on the size of your cook chamber. Plug in your planned cook chamber size and it will give you recommended firebox volume, air inlet requirements, cutout, and stack size options. Good Luck and feel free to review previous builds in this section that are sized similar to your plans, and ask questions. All the guys around here are happy to help get you off to a good start.
http://feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html
Here is the link to the pit calculator, it will give you numbers for firebox volume based on the size of your cook chamber. Plug in your planned cook chamber size and it will give you recommended firebox volume, air inlet requirements, cutout, and stack size options. Good Luck and feel free to review previous builds in this section that are sized similar to your plans, and ask questions. All the guys around here are happy to help get you off to a good start.
http://feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html
Hi bishgeo and welcome to SMF. Len has pointed you in the right direction with posting the link to the ppq calculator.
Please take a moment and swing by Roll Call and introduce yourself to the rest of SMF Family.
Enjoy the Smoke!
Please take a moment and swing by Roll Call and introduce yourself to the rest of SMF Family.
Enjoy the Smoke!
crazyq
Meat Mopper
me personally i cut my door at 12o clock. bottom of the door is 1" lower then the 3o clock position because i have slide out grates. but even if i didn't i would probably still do it to gain the extra space between the grates.
soooooo,
will you have slide out grates?
will you have more then one grate?
soooooo,
will you have slide out grates?
will you have more then one grate?
yes I think I will have slide out racks.Crazy I will probably send you some pm's if you dond mind looking at your build is my insperation i'm wanting to build a smaller version of yours.
Calculator is a bit complicated for me it's asking for information I don't know.I don't know what size exhaust i'm using I though calculator would figure every thing out after you put cook chamber size in.It gives me ci of fire box I can compute that into how big square.I have no idea what size air vents i'm putting in to put it in calculator.I take it there is no simple calculator that will give you specs off of cook chamber size.
alaska
Meat Mopper
lendecatural
Smoking Fanatic
The calculator will tell you how many square inches of inlet you will need. From that number, just decide how you want to lay them out, like 3x6 holes on a slider and the calculator will tell you how many of them you will need. For the pipe, plug in a few different diameters and it will tell you how long it needs to be, so select a diameter that gives you between 30 and 40 inches.
Under Chimney size, it says;
"A chimney that is too short may produce insufficient draft (drawing of air). A chimney that is too long may cause the air to cool before it exits, reducing effective draft and worse, dripping of exhaust materials onto food!
• Many horizontal smokers have an exhaust between 30-40 inches in length, but there is no hard and fast formula."
How long are you going to make your cook chamber? Once you get all the numbers plugged in, you can paste the calculator link on here and we can check your numbers.
Hope this helps.
Len
Under Chimney size, it says;
"A chimney that is too short may produce insufficient draft (drawing of air). A chimney that is too long may cause the air to cool before it exits, reducing effective draft and worse, dripping of exhaust materials onto food!
• Many horizontal smokers have an exhaust between 30-40 inches in length, but there is no hard and fast formula."
How long are you going to make your cook chamber? Once you get all the numbers plugged in, you can paste the calculator link on here and we can check your numbers.
Hope this helps.
Len
lendecatural
Smoking Fanatic
No, it doesn't hurt to go bigger. I put a firebox size in to make it match the cook chamber but you can increase it how much you need to add an ash pan or width to accommodate the size wood you cut.
Link to BBQ Pit Calculator
Link to BBQ Pit Calculator
Last edited:
crazyq
Meat Mopper
Yes send away man, ill help ya anyway i can.
I would go with a firebox around the 105-110% range.
The stack size just takes what size ur gonna use and tells you what length to make it so u have the right amount of volume so itll draft right.
i like all of the sizes Len used except i'd go with a 4" pipe or square tube. i really like that size on that size cooker. but thats just my preference. the size of stack can be changed to your preference just plug it in and it'll tell you the length to make it. and you can go a little longer and it be fine just don't go crazy with it.
I would go with a firebox around the 105-110% range.
The stack size just takes what size ur gonna use and tells you what length to make it so u have the right amount of volume so itll draft right.
i like all of the sizes Len used except i'd go with a 4" pipe or square tube. i really like that size on that size cooker. but thats just my preference. the size of stack can be changed to your preference just plug it in and it'll tell you the length to make it. and you can go a little longer and it be fine just don't go crazy with it.
Last edited:
- bishgeo
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- 29 Posts. Joined 3/2014
- Location: springfield oh
- Points: 10
20x48 211#
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post #2 of 9
1 week ago
- Ribwizzard
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Nice, what did you give for it?
My opinions and suggestions are just like my farts, they never stop.
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post #3 of 9
6 days, 23 hours ago
Thread Starter
- bishgeo
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$225 could not find any scrap. Just ordered these hinges for lid and fire box.
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post #4 of 9
6 days, 13 hours ago
- gary s
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I like those hinges, how much were they and where did you get them ?
Gary
"Ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened to you. For everyone who asks receives; he who seeks finds; and to him who knocks, the door will be opened.
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post #5 of 9
6 days, 12 hours ago
Thread Starter
- bishgeo
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http://www.ebay.com/usr/randpcarriages $9,00
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6 days, 10 hours ago
- Dockman
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Seems like a really good price for pipe.
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post #7 of 9
6 days, 10 hours ago
- Maple Sticks
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My experience its the cuts that are expensive. Did they break the cost down? Steel per LB and charge for cut?
Not a reverse flow, No tuning plates, Not even a fire box. Just good Q
Its not what you use, its how well you use it. Smoke On
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post #8 of 9
6 days, 5 hours ago
Thread Starter
- bishgeo
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No just price for pipe cut to length.
Made first cut across the top and down sides a few inches so saw wouldn't hit hinges on side cut after they were welded on finished top cut it went BONK and popped out what now.??
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post #2 of 8
2 days, 6 hours ago
I make my door handle flanges to fit the radius of the door exactly and weld them on before I cut the tank/ pipe. This will keep the door from springing.
As far as the rest of the pipe.. I always weld the firebox and end caps on before I cut the door. It may or may not do anything to keep it in place, but I have not had the CC give me a problem on any of my builds yet. So more than likely , it must help.
You could push it back in place and tack weld it , then follow the way I do it, or try to bend it with a chain and bottle jack. If it's the cc and not the door, just remember that you have the reverse flow plate to weld in, and that could be utilized to help hold the pipe where you want it also.
My opinions and suggestions are just like my farts, they never stop.
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post #3 of 8
2 days, 6 hours ago
Since I am only doing my first build I really dont know the solution to this. Possibly strapping it down to pull it into place. If I had been in my shop and that had happened the explosive fit I would have thrown would have caused the neighbor to call 911. Names Jerome and I welcome you to the forum. Great group of folks that are highly skilled on here and they will be repsponding to your question. No doubt they will get you squared away. I will be watching your progress.
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post #4 of 8
2 days, 6 hours ago
Thread Starter
I clamped it down I'm going to wx hinges on and hope when I finish cutting door it relaxes. Most build I've seen they cut top of door weld hinges on then cut door befor any thing else.
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post #5 of 8
2 days, 4 hours ago
Ok, ....just don't forget your going to need a door flange in there somewhere....
My opinions and suggestions are just like my farts, they never stop.
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post #6 of 8
2 days ago
Thread Starter
Got it all cut door is a little jacked up don't know what im going to do with it yet.High in spots low in spots.
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post #7 of 8
1 day, 17 hours ago
Never seen hinges like this, different. I like em!
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post #8 of 8
1 day ago
Thread Starter
Ebay look up trailer door hinges.
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post #2 of 8
2 days, 6 hours ago
- Ribwizzard
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I make my door handle flanges to fit the radius of the door exactly and weld them on before I cut the tank/ pipe. This will keep the door from springing.
As far as the rest of the pipe.. I always weld the firebox and end caps on before I cut the door. It may or may not do anything to keep it in place, but I have not had the CC give me a problem on any of my builds yet. So more than likely , it must help.
You could push it back in place and tack weld it , then follow the way I do it, or try to bend it with a chain and bottle jack. If it's the cc and not the door, just remember that you have the reverse flow plate to weld in, and that could be utilized to help hold the pipe where you want it also.
My opinions and suggestions are just like my farts, they never stop.
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post #3 of 8
2 days, 6 hours ago
- Alaska
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- Location: Big Lake Alaska
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Since I am only doing my first build I really dont know the solution to this. Possibly strapping it down to pull it into place. If I had been in my shop and that had happened the explosive fit I would have thrown would have caused the neighbor to call 911. Names Jerome and I welcome you to the forum. Great group of folks that are highly skilled on here and they will be repsponding to your question. No doubt they will get you squared away. I will be watching your progress.
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post #4 of 8
2 days, 6 hours ago
Thread Starter
- bishgeo
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- 31 Posts. Joined 3/2014
- Location: springfield oh
- Points: 10
I clamped it down I'm going to wx hinges on and hope when I finish cutting door it relaxes. Most build I've seen they cut top of door weld hinges on then cut door befor any thing else.
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post #5 of 8
2 days, 4 hours ago
- Ribwizzard
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- 1,880 Posts. Joined 5/2012
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Ok, ....just don't forget your going to need a door flange in there somewhere....
My opinions and suggestions are just like my farts, they never stop.
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post #6 of 8
2 days ago
Thread Starter
- bishgeo
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- 31 Posts. Joined 3/2014
- Location: springfield oh
- Points: 10
Got it all cut door is a little jacked up don't know what im going to do with it yet.High in spots low in spots.
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post #7 of 8
1 day, 17 hours ago
- jmud
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Never seen hinges like this, different. I like em!
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post #8 of 8
1 day ago
Thread Starter
- bishgeo
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- 31 Posts. Joined 3/2014
- Location: springfield oh
- Points: 10
Ebay look up trailer door hinges.
Bishgeo,
Looking good! What type of end cap are you going to have on your build? Is it going to be flat or rounded? If flat you may want to round in the end of your reverse flow plate to cut down on friction as the heat and smoke makes the turn to your cooking area. Also don't forget to make provision for a drain from your cook chamber to get rid of grease and make cleaning easier.
Weedeater
Looking good! What type of end cap are you going to have on your build? Is it going to be flat or rounded? If flat you may want to round in the end of your reverse flow plate to cut down on friction as the heat and smoke makes the turn to your cooking area. Also don't forget to make provision for a drain from your cook chamber to get rid of grease and make cleaning easier.
Weedeater
Was planning on flat caps I only need 5" I think to meet specs for other end 17-1/4 by 5" high so I figured I would give it 6" for flow.Dave recommended 60-90 CI.Was thinking of doing ends and fire box out of 3/16 only scrap place I can get plate 1/4 is scarce with out buying new.Plan on making insulated fire box.Do you guys try to polish inside of pipe or just grind/sand heavy rust off then spray with pam.My door opening is a little jacked up/uneven so I think I will put bottle jack in there on rf plate tweak it a little if it helps weld plate in and see what happens.I was going to leave rf plate stick out other end to hang fire box on for support and something to weld to.Good idea or not.Sorry for mess was trying to combine every thing into one thread.
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