Flipping over the element in a MES40 - another possible mod?

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cmayna

Master of the Pit
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Jun 23, 2012
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Has anyone tried turning over the heating element in a MES40?  This is using the existing holes in the back for the element's arms that the wires connect to.  This would locate the element far closer to the center of the smoker. Yes, this would not work if you still use chips via the chip loader but for us who use the AMNPS.......hmmmmmm/.   Still a fair amount mod work but heck, can't think of a better way to spend a rainy winter day.   Don't know if it could be done in a 30, using the existing holes due to it's width. 
 
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I think for us AMNPS users, moving the element towards the center more also moves it closer to the AMNPS which might be more apt to catch on fire?  No?  Yes?    After I do a batch of Salmon this weekend, I then might tear into Mr. Master to see if it can be done.
 
 
I think for us AMNPS users, moving the element towards the center more also moves it closer to the AMNPS which might be more apt to catch on fire?  No?  Yes?    After I do a batch of Salmon this weekend, I then might tear into Mr. Master to see if it can be done.
If the element legs are centered, there will be the same amount of room on the right side, once the element is flipped...  move the AMNPS to the right side...
 
I looked at this idea last night.  The element fastens to the back wall on the right side to the point that as you look into the smoker  there's a space of 1-1/4" between the right wall and the heating element.  Element is 7-1/2" wide, leaving a big gap on the left of 11-3/4".   If one was to flip the element over, you would end up with a space of 6-1/2" on both the left and right side.  Dead centered baby!  And as Dave mentions above,  you could then move the AMNPS to the right side next to the chip loader hole for an air source.

Here's a couple issues that need to be addressed:

#1 - The male spade connectors which are welded or brazed on the ends of the heating element face upwards in it's stock position. If you had to replace the element, removing it requires you to pull it forward into the smoker and then tilt it upwards to allow these connectors to clear the holes in the back wall.  Now imagine what you need to do to install it once you've flipped the element over.  Being so close to the floor of the smoker, you might not have room to insert the element's ends into the holes with those spade connectors attached.  Can the connectors be bent 180 degrees?  Don't know.   Will they break off the element before that happens? Don't know.

#2 - The other issue which is far less of a problem as compared to the above is the location of the chip tray support plate which is welded to the two chrome rails.  It is now in the way of the element's new position.  I would simply break the welds loose and relocate this plate on the right side of the chip tray where the two stock rivets are.  Simple mod.  Of course for those who use a mailbox mod and don't even use the chip tray, you can probably just remove the tray and the chrome rails all together.

As I said above, I'll consider this mod after I smoke some Salmon this weekend and look further into issue #1.
 
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Here's a pic of the element's connectors. Can you imagine attempting to attach the wire's connectors to them if they were facing down? Not much room down there.
28d2e363c95cdbd11addd4ad5fb7a047.jpg



Here's that chip tray support plate I was yakkin about:
080924168af1f83ccef37a4dcd58ea41.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Un solder the clips then re solder..... or try and bend them...   DO NOT try and bend the element...   they will only bend when they are new...  heat screws up them being able to bend....
 
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So did you end up making this mod?  How did it turn out?  Was there enough room at the bottom of the box on the back to attach the wires to the element leads?
 
As my picture shows, I did infact bend the tabs on the ends of the element upward.   Works like a champ.
 
First, I'm sorry I did not take pictures of all steps, but I think you will get the idea of what I did.

Ok, i just did this to my MES 40.  I think mine is considered GEN 2.5.  I have no window, but it had the slanted drip collector with the small water pan and vent at the back left of the unit top.  No rails in mine.  Inside looks like this:


The heating element was different than the one cmayna has as mine had two bolts on it that poked through the back of the smoker where nuts were screwed on to attach it.  It looks like this.   When mounted, it's actually flipped from what you see in the picture.  I suspect the top part of the L bracket helps protect the element a little from drips.


Here is the element installed in the flipped position:


I used the bottom of the old chip housing as a cover to protect the element from drips.  This part just unscrews from it very easily and fits perfect.  I read that drips won't kill the element but I wanted to protect it anyway.  I just punched some holes in this and added big lag screws as legs so it does not touch the element at all.


Here it is all foiled up too.


I don't use the chip tray at all since I have a mailbox mod.  I plan to not add anything else above this and just let all the drippings go to the very bottom pan and down the hole if needed.  I'm doing two brisket flats and a point tonight so we'll see how this works.
 
Rick123,

Nice work and photos.  That mod is one of the best mods I've done.

Craig
 
Just ran some test and I can confirm this definitely helps with the variations in temperature. This was with nothing in the smoker but racks. Center of top rack to center of bottom varied no more than 5 degrees. Left to right at the top varied no more than 2 degrees

Test was done in no wind and about mid 80s ambient temp.

I did see that my MES40 is about 10 degrees too low. So now I'll set for 235 instead of 225
 
I ordered a spare element for the Gen 1 40. I just cut the mounting plate on the element with a dremel tool so the plate is smaller and symmetrical flipped or not. I'll just fasten the element through the center hole and it rests on the rails. I want to see if I can get the newer high heat lugs on before bending 180° . I'll screw the piece I cut off back on with the two screws so now my original element is the back up element.
 
My question would be now that it is directly below the temp probe in the back , is that not going to kick the controller out quicker and more often before smoke chamber heats completely? Maybe irrelevant...
 
My question would be now that it is directly below the temp probe in the back , is that not going to kick the controller out quicker and more often before smoke chamber heats completely? Maybe irrelevant...
I believe the element goes in with the element at an upward angle to get the male spades on the element in the holes before it lays flat so I did bend them 180°. My OEM element in now is exposed with all chip housing etc removed. For quicker response from not having to heat the metal all around it like a regula electric oven. I've been using an Auber PID for six months so the chamber sensor has been up on the rack next to my food After smoking the trimmed 17lb whole packer brisket and all the drippings I wanted the water pan to be completely over the element. It seems the Oem setup really cooks the right rear corner and flipping gets element in the open away from the right side wall. The foam insulation in the Mes is sub par flipping gets more air around the element that is now centered.
 
I cut the element bracket in half length wise with a dremel cut off wheel to fit then screwed that piece back on after installing the flipped element. I used a longer ground bolt with an extra nut to hold the element (inside the heating element access area in the back.)
20181026_121853.jpg
 
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