It's time for my 250 build
- Thread starter raptor700
- Start date
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The calculator called for a 30x30x24, But I made it 24x24x24 because I would need another sheet of ¼" steel to make it larger.
It works great,and I have not had any problems with getting temps up.
Raptor, I been looking at your build, and have to admit, you have changed my mind about my new and FIRST build. I too have gotten a 250 propane tank and was going to make it with 2 side by side access doors. In looking at your build, you made 2 doors, but one on each side for through acccess. I like this concept, but wonder, do you still like this and would do it again, or are you wishing you went with the side by side method. I think I know the answer. The only question I have for you PLEASE. Can you tell me what the measurments are for your doors, length and with. I have not made my first cut yet, and want to start marking off the doors. Thanks, and any other tidbits you can share would greatly help the NOOB, but eager builder I am. Thanks, Ken... Lake of the Ozarks, MO
Thanks portside, And yes I love the two doors with the through access and would do it again. It works great and I strongly recommend it.Raptor, I been looking at your build, and have to admit, you have changed my mind about my new and FIRST build. I too have gotten a 250 propane tank and was going to make it with 2 side by side access doors. In looking at your build, you made 2 doors, but one on each side for through acccess. I like this concept, but wonder, do you still like this and would do it again, or are you wishing you went with the side by side method. I think I know the answer. The only question I have for you PLEASE. Can you tell me what the measurments are for your doors, length and with. I have not made my first cut yet, and want to start marking off the doors. Thanks, and any other tidbits you can share would greatly help the NOOB, but eager builder I am. Thanks, Ken... Lake of the Ozarks, MO
The door dimensions are 18"H X 58" L. Just make sure the bottom of the door is a minimum of 4" above your RF plate.,
And cut the top of your doors first, then weld your hinges in place.
This will keep your door in place while you finish all the cuts.
Anything else I can help you with just ask or PM me.
Thanks, that really helps. Last note for now, Ill stop bugging you if I can help it. As I look at your doors, it appears you have 2 inch strips around the edges on the sides and the bottom of the doors. I understand why. What I'm trying to see is, it appears on the top of the doors, underneath the hinges, you have welded the strip on the inside of the tank so the door closes on top to create the seal on the top portion of the door. Am I seeing this correctly? I have been wondering about how to cleanly make the seal around the doors, and this seems to work well instead of having the strip on the outside of the top and working around the hinges. Thanks, Ken
Yes you are seeing it correctly.
I found that if you try to seal the door from the top you can only get about a 1/8" overlap to seal the door. If you overlap the seal more than that you cannot open the door.
You could weld a strip on top of the door for cosmetic purposes but it's not a good seal.
PS............Your not bugging me, that's what were here for
hdflame
Meat Mopper
- May 27, 2009
- 247
- 24
Raptor,Yes you are seeing it correctly.
I found that if you try to seal the door from the top you can only get about a 1/8" overlap to seal the door. If you overlap the seal more than that you cannot open the door.
You could weld a strip on top of the door for cosmetic purposes but it's not a good seal.
PS............Your not bugging me, that's what were here for
Great build! I too, have a 250 that I want to do a RF build with. Couple of questions for you please.
I really like the idea of the one long single door instead of the two with a middle divider. It gives you room for a whole hog if you want to.
Did you have any problems with warping because of no support in the middle?
Do you really find a need to have the door on both sides, especially since you made the full slide outs? I'm just trying to figure out when you'd need access to both sides on a 250 with the pull out shelves?
OK, I understand about making the top cuts, and welding the hinges on before finishing the rest of them, great idea. Here's what I'm thinking. If you cut across the top and at least partially down the sides...why couldn't you go ahead and weld your 2" strips across the top, then weld your hinges on "TOP" of the strips? Wouldn't that give you the seal you need, but still allow it to open?
Again, I really appreciate you documenting your build. I'll be stealing some of your ideas!
Thanks,
Bobby
Last edited:
Raptor,
Great build! I too, have a 250 that I want to do a RF build with. Couple of questions for you please.
I really like the idea of the one long single door instead of the two with a middle divider. It gives you room for a whole hog if you want to.
Did you have any problems with warping because of no support in the middle?
I have had no problem with warping, although it is ¼"
Do you really find a need to have the door on both sides, especially since you made the full slide outs? I'm just trying to figure out when you'd need access to both sides on a 250 with the pull out shelves? The bottom racks are 30" across, it's quite a reach for a short guy.
Plus when you apply sauce or just putting meat in or removing it.It's a lot easier.
I have cooked several events and no matter which direction I have to park, I always have a door on the curb side.
OK, I understand about making the top cuts, and welding the hinges on before finishing the rest of them, great idea. Here's what I'm thinking. If you cut across the top and at least partially down the sides...why couldn't you go ahead and weld your 2" strips across the top, then weld your hinges on "TOP" of the strips? Wouldn't that give you the seal you need, but still allow it to open?
You could But, you can only get about an 1/8" overlap and the door still be able to open.
And I'm not sure the weight of the door would be supported very well with the hinges on top of the 2" strips.
Again, I really appreciate you documenting your build. I'll be stealing some of your ideas!
Hope this helps
Thanks,
Bobby
pineywoods
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It sure does I can attest to that so can a bunch of other people that were at the last N FL Gathering
theshooter
Newbie
- Oct 29, 2011
- 5
- 10
Raptor,
Exciting read on this project.
Wish I were closer (California) so I could taste the goodness, but I trust the others feedback.
Take Care,
Jim
Exciting read on this project.
Wish I were closer (California) so I could taste the goodness, but I trust the others feedback.
Take Care,
Jim
subvet
Fire Starter
Very nice work! It looks great. I look froward to seeing the upgrades and extras you were talking about.
missed this one ken.......nice looking BBQ....hope to get some more off of it at the NFLG........
I need to pm u for some trailer measurement's... gonna get back to my project... looks like your rig is going to be cloned...........
Joe
I need to pm u for some trailer measurement's... gonna get back to my project... looks like your rig is going to be cloned...........
Joe
dragons breath
Meat Mopper
Nice build Raptor. I like the double doors. More work but really cool. And the Q looks finger licking good. I can hardly wait to start smoking.
hdflame
Meat Mopper
- May 27, 2009
- 247
- 24
OK, I understand about making the top cuts, and welding the hinges on before finishing the rest of them, great idea. Here's what I'm thinking. If you cut across the top and at least partially down the sides...why couldn't you go ahead and weld your 2" strips across the top, then weld your hinges on "TOP" of the strips? Wouldn't that give you the seal you need, but still allow it to open?
You could But, you can only get about an 1/8" overlap and the door still be able to open.
And I'm not sure the weight of the door would be supported very well with the hinges on top of the 2" strips.
I don't think you quite understand what I'm talking about. If you cut your door and weld your hinges on...then come back and put on your flat overlap piece, then the overlap piece would interfere with the lifting of the door and could hit the metal if there's too much overlap. In order for it to hit, the metal would have to come in contact with the top beyond the hinge point.
However, if you cut the top of the door, put your overlap piece on, then weld the hinge on top of that, (Keeping the hinge point even with the edge of the overlap piece and NOT the edge of the cut) it wouldn't hit because you've changed the pivot point and the metal would be lifting up instead of pivoting down and hitting the metal. As far as strength, just extend the hinges past the overlap and weld to the door itself. I can see it in my head, it's trying to put it on paper without drawing that's hard!
You could But, you can only get about an 1/8" overlap and the door still be able to open.
And I'm not sure the weight of the door would be supported very well with the hinges on top of the 2" strips.
I don't think you quite understand what I'm talking about. If you cut your door and weld your hinges on...then come back and put on your flat overlap piece, then the overlap piece would interfere with the lifting of the door and could hit the metal if there's too much overlap. In order for it to hit, the metal would have to come in contact with the top beyond the hinge point.
However, if you cut the top of the door, put your overlap piece on, then weld the hinge on top of that, (Keeping the hinge point even with the edge of the overlap piece and NOT the edge of the cut) it wouldn't hit because you've changed the pivot point and the metal would be lifting up instead of pivoting down and hitting the metal. As far as strength, just extend the hinges past the overlap and weld to the door itself. I can see it in my head, it's trying to put it on paper without drawing that's hard!
I think I get what your saying, but with the type hinges i used i couldn't extend them.As far as strength, just extend the hinges past the overlap and weld to the door itself. I can see it in my head, it's trying to put it on paper without drawing that's hard!
If you make your own hinges i can see it working.
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